FWIW, I'm sure there are dealer that don't negotiate, i know there are some that are crap, but when folks say they'll shop hundreds of miles away because the local dealer won't give the same deals, I'm willing to be 9 out of 10 times there is something not being expressed. I've gone on many rants explaining the most common ways I see it done. So at the end of the day the customer goes to who they perceive as the cheapest price, NOT who they find to be the most helpful OR the most honest. So the crap you find at dealerships IS consumer driven. That is something I believe 100%. If you have to use their financing for the price, that's often from Fords rebate structure. Sorry, just the way it is. Even if it's not via Fords rebates, if they've priced their inventory to the point that there is zero dollars on the truck, they expect to make the money in arranging the deal, and they'll decline your cash offer. You complain about such practices and at the same time you acknowledge its only right to make some profit. We make much less profit in sales than you presume. Again, many companies are publicly traded, and you can look at their books and get an idea for yourself!

 

You are buying a truck, not a friend. Best advice I ever got, vehicles, machinery, any major purchase.


I'm nice to dealerships, I'm nice to the service department, I'm even nice to my salesman who is typically some wet behind the ears kid. But I do not forget the golden rule above and it has served me well.

 

How often are these trucks in the shop though? If well maintained and taken care of and not abused they should last right?

 

Sure, I'm not advocating going in and getting hosed. Never have. But with the amount of information on the internet today for pricing, I honestly think its foolish not to go in hard and get the deal local from a friend. Things do happen, they are machines, and having a local business that cares about your well being is valuable. We have the discussion "look, Fred's bought 3 trucks from us and services with us. Lets help him out on this one". Sorta like one more layer of warranty. Of course some folks don't get any warranty, so the idea is not a value for them. But if you're the type that sees value in extra coverage, then you should consider building a relationship. At most, I would imagine your local shop is a few hundred bucks higher than the biggest big city stores when pen hits paper after all the fees and stuff. I will say this, local shops are going to be less likely to negotiate over the phone or buy internet. So if that's the only way you're shopping them, you'll may find them "unwilling to negotiate", while in reality, they just want a chance to sell you the truck in person. Doesn't mean the deal won't be the same or better. Doesn't mean you don't go in with your homework done. But it's a much more personal shopping experience, and it's about they only way they can force potential customers to give them a chance to show how they are different.

 

Odds are in your favor I think. The 6.7 and trans have been around a while. Some get a LOT of mileage out of these diesels, 300k plus. Obviously wear parts like ball joints, brakes, etc. may need replacing. Unless you are unlucky and get stuck with a manufacturing defect I think the big risk on the diesels is contaminated fuel. Some have driven diesels for decades with no issues, a few have not been so lucky.

 

Then there is GAP insurance, don't forget.

Depending on how much you put down you could be upside down when you drive an SD off the lot or within the first 2 years when you experience the most depreciation. Most insurance policies only pay what the truck is worth, not what you still owe on the loan. GAP insurance covers the difference. If your truck is totaled and you owe $60k and the insurance company says its only worth $54k the GAP insurance pays the $6k difference.


My sister and her husband got screwed on this once, some idiot totaled their vehicle so they had no vehicle and still owed $8k on the loan, ouch.

 

Gap is a bad deal, its a sure sign you can't afford something. If you need Gap then you should've had a bigger downpayment or bought it outright.

 

Gap Insurance is like extended warranties: some people can't sleep at night without it and other can't sleep at night spending the money for it.

Bottom line with GAP: If it makes you sleep better and you feel more comfortable having the coverage, then it is a good deal. If you constantly worry about "the money I'm throwing away" if you never use it, then it is a bad deal.

To each his own.

For every story where it was beneficial there will be 10 where it was not. Insurance companies are like casino's: While a jackpot may be paid out every now and then, the house ALWAYS has the odds and ALWAYS wins in the long term.

 

Does anyone know how much insurance is on these new super dutys? My insurance now is 149 a month on my sierra.

a lot of you guys are talking about a downpayment.

I need some some help with this. Is the sales tax and all after the deal is made does that automatically add about 3k extra to the totally price? With the tax added in? Or am I wrong

 

Your insurance will go up, because of the higher value of the new vehicle. Call you agent for free quote, then you'll know exactly what you'll pay.

Here in Texas, vehicle sales tax is 6.25%. On a $70K purchase, the tax is $4375, plus the other fees of probably $1000. Find a vehicle you like and ask the dealer to work up buyers order and a list of all fees, including taxes.

So, have you bought a vehicle before? You have a lot of questions for someone that I presumed had purchased a vehicle on their own. Maybe you have not, I am just asking.

 

5k in taxes? The heck?

Yes i I have but only once and can't remember everything. I just contacted my insurance agency they couldn't find a 2017 f259 lariat ultimate New but found a 2016 and told me my rate would be the same as I am paying now 150.

called couple people it's 7% sales tax. So basically with xplan + my trade in if I put 13k down I would hit dead on at 100 $ more than what I'm paying now a month and same insurance

 

Some folks consider the time value of money, especially when 0% is in plan, or even the general low rates of today. If you put $20k down and drive off the lot and it gets totaled well aren't you lucky that you didn't' need gap, you're still out the entire depreciation. While it's not supposed to be a factor, I would never feel comfortable buying gap directly from my insurance company. They then have a vested interest in not totaling a vehicle.

 

I'm a magnet for retarded drivers, 7 of my last 10 vehicles have been smashed into, 2 totaled.

 

Sales Tax = MSRP minus the value of your trade times 7%. If MSRP is $60,000 and your trade is worth $30,000 the sales tax will be $30,000 times 7% or $2,100. It does not matter if you can negotiate the dealer down to $55,000 you pay sales tax on the value of the vehicle e.g. MSRP.

 

What sales tax is based on depends on your state. For example, in California trade in and rebates do not reduce the sales tax you pay. The price you agree on before trade in and rebates is what you pay taxes on.