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I was down at my sisters and asked her why she hadn't been driving her Explorer, she's had it since new and has about 200K on it. She said it needed $600 in repairs and wasn't up for it as she just inherited our Mom's Prius (yeah, I know). Anyway, she said her mechanic quoted her $600 to replace the EGR valve, I said that's crazy and would replace that and the sensor for her just to be safe (she thought he mentioned that too). BUT, she also said the car was cutting out, no electrics, usually on a restart, and it would then fix itself. Other than basic ground, hot wire, harness connections, any where that I should look for electrical problems particular to these rigs?
Also, any other associated hoses, fitting or anything else I could have problems with when replacing the EGR and sensor....the EGR looked VERY rusty.
Thanks in advance.
The mechanic disconnected the Idle Air Control Valve, I am going to call him to find out why, but would that disconnect anything that has to do with the EGR sytem or is that a separate issue?
She said it needed $600 in repairs and wasn't up for it as she just inherited our Mom's Prius (yeah, I know).
Sell the Prius to fix the Explorer and pocket the difference?
Originally Posted by defdes
her mechanic quoted her $600 to replace the EGR valve
Do you have any details on what in particular led the mechanic to this conclusion?
Originally Posted by defdes
BUT, she also said the car was cutting out, no electrics, usually on a restart, and it would then fix itself. Other than basic ground, hot wire, harness connections, any where that I should look for electrical problems particular to these rigs?
On a restart as in it's already hot or has it cooled down all the way? Give the ignition switch the wiggle test. As Graygeorge suggests, grounds are a good place to look but also inspect the battery cables and don't overlook the alternator wires. Sometimes you get corrosion under the insulation so a wiggle test there might be called for as well. Don't just look at the grounds. Take out the ground screws, inspect the wiring and clean everything up.
Is she positive the electrical is dropping out? When it cuts out, is the dash completely dark (no CEL or other lights)?
Originally Posted by defdes
Also, any other associated hoses, fitting or anything else I could have problems with when replacing the EGR and sensor....the EGR looked VERY rusty.
Inspect and make sure the EGR tubes/ports are not plugged (as well as any other passages related to the EGR). And, make sure the tube is not corroded through.
Thanks for the replies, as I look at the complete system, I am now thinking that maybe the $600 was to replace all of the associated solenoids, valves etc with the EGR and not just the valve itself. I will call him though to find out the specifics.
As to the electrical, complete shut off, nothing on the dash at all. Is there a schematic for all of the ground attachment points?
the EGR tube looked like it could be the most difficult task in this, it looked very rusty. I let is soak it PBR when I was down there last week, but I will bring a MAPP gas torch with me and some tubing to slip over the end of my wrench for extra leverage.