Polyurethane bushings will far outlast rubber bushings. It will also make the front end tighter so there's less slop in the steering/handling going down the road. I have Energy Suspension (black) polyurethane I-beam and radius arm bushings on my '69 F100 with a '77 F100 front discs/suspension.

 

Unless there's a crack in the rotor or, the wheel was improperly tightened down on the wheel lugs, 'warpage' is pretty much non-existent in the realm of what people diagnose as warpage.

Getting the brakes hot and then coming to a complete stop with your foot on the brakes imprints the surface of the rotors. This is where material from the brake pads transfers from the pad and is burned/etched onto the friction surface of a hot rotor. This creates high spots on the friction surface that can be felt as pulsations through the brake pedal and front end judder each time these high spots passes through the brake pads, when the brakes are being applied.

As little as .0004" build up on the rotor surface can be felt while .001" would be very noticeable.

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

 

Nissan recalled 2004/2005 Titans to replace the rotors due to "brake judder." Some 2006's were also affected.

800 miles on the clock, approaching a stoplight, stepped on the pedal of my 2005 Titan LE Crew Cab, the truck did the shimmy-shake-shake. Grrr!

I was aware of this problem because I was a member of titantalk.com, so I drove straight to the dealer to have the rotors and pads replaced.

After replacing the rotors/pads, Nissan warrantied the complete brake system for 3 years/36,000 miles.

Meanwhile, 2004/2008 F150's suffered the same problem, the dealers turned the rotors, but the problem soon returned, so they replaced the rotors, but Ford didn't offer an additional warranty.

 

The rotors can be turned to remove the buildup but, once the rotor has been imprinted, the problem will soon return with more deposits in the same place.

 

I recall that the rotors developed blue spots, turning them visually remove the spots, but they soon reappeared...visible for all to see.

 

So, I don't have to grab the entire I beam assembly, just the brake bits on the end?? I'm a bit confused. That would make me a lot happier about this swap if that was the case.

 

In the interest in keeping things simple and straight forward, I prefer to swap out the entire front suspension and disc brake assemblies.

However, it would be possible to just swap on everything (brake-wise) that bolts onto the F250 spindle. --dust/splash shield, caliper anchor bracket, caliper bracket and caliper. The steering stops changed design so, this may be one thing you'd have to watch out for.

....additionally, not having the '75-'79 radius arms will mean the provision at the forward ends of the radius arms won't be there, IF you ever had plans to install a factory '75-'79 F100-F350 1-1/8" diameter front swaybar.

Changing out the complete suspension eliminates any of the gotchas you may encounter by mixing parts.

 

Hmmmm, you have a good point with the mixed bag of parts.
Looks like I may have a bigger job ahead of me than I wanted

So when I go to get pieces from the JY, what all do I need? I was reading the swap thread in the stickied tech info, but that included a power steering swap, which I already have (even if it does leak like a sieve), so I'm not sure if all those parts he got off his donor truck are needed for what I'm doing?

 

Did management decide you just weren't a "people person" with respect to dealing with the public? (kidding!!!)

 

If you're going from drums to discs, and are going the route of swapping the entire suspension too, then you would need the radius arms, I-beams/spindles, and the brake assemblies. Donors usually have worn/worn out rotors and they generally aren't worth getting or paying for rotors that aren't any good.

The calipers can either be rebuilt by you or, you could trade them in as cores for newly rebuilt calipers.

Consumable parts such as rotors, brake pads, wheel bearings/seals, caliper hoses, steering linkages/tie rods, kingpins/kingpin bushings, coil springs, I-beam and radius arm bushings should all be replaced with new items at the time of the changeover.

Obviously, these items can all add up in cost but, if you spread it out over time, buying a group of parts here and there until you have everything to make the changeover won't be a big blow to your pocketbook, all at once.

This is the approach I used when I put the '77 F100 front disc brake/suspension under my truck and it was definitely worth it after everything was installed.

 

https://youtu.be/Y8EMndSFFMk

 

Have you ever had to deal with the public?? Trust me, I'm not "dissing" Bill in ANY way here LOL.

"Just keep him back there, outta the way..."

 

[QUOTE=NumberDummy;16888968
Ford replaced the 1968/71 originals (C8TZ-2B296-A) with the 1972 type (D2TZ-2B296-A). It didn't solve the problem.

JEFFFAFA may chime in, he has an F250 with discs, but he didn't get into the parts biz until 1977, so may not be aware.[/QUOTE]
I do remember the C8TZ2B296A's were replaced by D2TZ. And I remember selling quite a few of them over the years. I don't remember very many people telling me why they were replacing them though. Usually someone would plop one (as a sample) down on the counter. I'd ask how many they want. They'd tell me and I'd turn around and walk back to the bin and grab them. Already knew the part number. I'd plop the new ones on the counter and they'd look at me with disbelief. And ask "how'd you do that? I haven't told you what kind of truck I have". Wrote up an invoice, took their money, and out the door they went. So I never heard why they were buying them. Did that with most of the parts I sold.

Oh I can understand. Retail counter, Back counter, Body Shop counter all has it's difficulties to a Parts Man. Trust me. Done every one of them. Bondo slingers who won't lift a finger unless they get at least 2 hours repair time. Whiners. Or the ones that are too good for their own britches and are a PITA. And mechanics who try to Bully or be a PITA on purpose to the Parts Man. And speaking of Bully, the one that killed me the worst was Retail counter. It's amazing how many people don't know info about their own vehicle. Sometimes not even the year of it! The worst was when some boy friend/husband Bully would send his woman after parts. Of course she had no clue about the vehicle. Usually the parts weren't for her car. If I needed some info the woman would borrow my counter phone. (WAY pre-dated cell phones) The guy would answer and start yelling at her so loud I could hear it. And yell on and on. Her eyes would start welling up with tears and my blood pressure about went through the roof. You guys have no clue how many times I wanted to grab that phone out of their hands and yell back at the SOB. But I would have been fired.

 

This is why I try to be as good as I can to our parts guys at the shop. They have a hard enough time with customers, don't need the grease monkeys causing them heartache too

 

Indeed I have. For over 8 years when I was doing testing of weapons systems, etc., we would have engineers (our customers) from various companies (Lockheed Martin, Aerojet, General Dynamics, ATK, Alloy Surfaces, Armtec, Raytheon, and Rheinmetall, to name a few) come witness the testing we were doing for them. Some of them were cool and some were just plain a$$es.

Probably the nicest, coolest guy I met during that time was an engineer from Boeing in St. Louis. He had a fuel injected 359 '93 Cobra that would run in the 9.40s and, since I'm a Mustang guy too, he and I hit it off right from the start.



Link to Marc's website and his '93 Cobra.

Marc Arnold's 1993 Cobra