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Camshaft choice

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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 08:53 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Conanski
Sorry bud.. what you got now is about as good as it gets. Everything else you do to this motor moves the powerband up.. that is just the way it is.. this displacement simply will not make any significant torque below 2500rpm.
Well, then I'll just have to accept that and make the best of it. Now you have me back to leaning towards the 320. Is there a particular maf that is commonly used for this upgrade? Just don't want to get stuck with something that won't work.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2017 | 09:43 PM
  #17  
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Any MAF will work you just need the transfer function for it. What size meter is on the truck now?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 07:05 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Conanski
Any MAF will work you just need the transfer function for it. What size meter is on the truck now?
Factory stock unit is what's on truck now. I found this one on Summit: Delphi AF10115. Will this work? Or will I need a different housing?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 07:22 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Conanski
I won't dispute the validity of that but... is there enough power gained to make it worthwhile? In most street applications my answer to that is no.
If it's worth it is relative to the owner. Are long tubes worth it vs shortys? Are ported heads worth it? Compression bump? If I'm the one you're asking, the answer is yes to everything including the extra lift.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 01:53 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by chesster51
Factory stock unit is what's on truck now. I found this one on Summit: Delphi AF10115. Will this work? Or will I need a different housing?
On the edge of my chair here, what do ya think?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 05:30 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Conanski
Sorry bud.. what you got now is about as good as it gets. Everything else you do to this motor moves the powerband up.. that is just the way it is.. this displacement simply will not make any significant torque below 2500rpm.
This thing keeps growing. I will be going .030 over and looking to increase CR to somewhere between 9.5 to 10. I'm also kicking around stroking to 331 which will add some low end torque, but not sure what the cost difference would be compared to just going to 306. What other costs would be incurred with the stroker build? Just want to explore options before pulling the trigger and getting past the point of no return and wishing I had done it differently.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 05:38 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by chesster51
I'm also kicking around stroking to 331 which will add some low end torque, but not sure what the cost difference would be compared to just going to 306.
306 is just an overbore, with a stroker you would be replacing the whole rotating assembly and if you're doing that then just hit the reset button and go find a 351 to drop in.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 05:50 PM
  #23  
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I know 306 it's just an overbore, but I do want to reuse the existing block. I know the 351 is a lot stronger and has a lot more potential but also adds a 100lbs and will share the cost of rebuilding my 302 but also have the added expense of buying it. To that end, just curious as to the cost difference between the 306 and 331. Both will get me to the 300 hp level, just trying to establish if the added cost of the 331 for the torque increase is worth it to me.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 05:52 PM
  #24  
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What he said...which would be WELL worth it in that little truck. You could go 347 with the 302 block, the 5.0 truck intake is petty damn good, whereas you'd have to buy a pricey intake for a 351 build, as the 351 truck intake is garbage.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 05:56 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by '89F2urd
What he said...which would be WELL worth it in that little truck. You could go 347 with the 302 block, the 5.0 truck intake is petty damn good, whereas you'd have to buy a pricey intake for a 351 build, as the 351 truck intake is garbage.
Seriously consider this option.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 05:56 PM
  #26  
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Stroke it and don't look back, 302s belong in cars.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 06:04 PM
  #27  
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Parts collected so far:
Rebuilt GT40's
Scorpion 1.6 rockers (arrived today)
Head, Valve Cover, Oil pan and timing cover gaskets
Arp - head bolts, intake bolts, valve cover bolts
24# injectors ordered

Waiting to order cam/timing chain/gear combo and maf until I get more help with selection.

Still need to order oil pump.

So, if stroke it, I will still be cleaning the bore to 4.030 and also adding new rods and crank?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 06:14 PM
  #28  
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Yes, stroker kit will be a full rotating assembly. If you don't plan on boost down the road, get a cast crank and pistons...you won't need forged with rpm as low as you'll be.

http://www.coasthigh.com/Ford-347-Fl...66-sf-f347.htm

You can find a cheaper kit, but can't really beat that price with forged pistons
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 06:16 PM
  #29  
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I don't know what a 331/347 stroker kit costs these days but it's got to be around the $1k mark and I don't see a rebuilt 351 shortblock costing anything close to that.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 06:40 PM
  #30  
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Oh I'm with ya on the 351...I was just adding that added intake costs offset some savings of a 351. That, and he said he seems dead set on using his 302 bloq.
 
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