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Screw fixing it, trade-sies with me for a nice WORKING V-10! I'll go down to Houston with a 6 pack of Natty light and a $5 Hot and Fresh from Little Caesars and get Razzi and Matt to help me
Don't tempt me - my truck will make the trip to Houston, as long as I'm not towing the RV or have to descend any hills with it.
What about a manual swap? I'd rather have a 6-speed over a slushbox anyway.
Still more work than just R&R the existing one for either another stock or upgraded unit... I believe you'd need either a flash or computer for a manual V10 as well.
Still more work than just R&R the existing one for either another stock or upgraded unit... I believe you'd need either a flash or computer for a manual V10 as well.
I know it will be more work. Pedal assembly, crossmember, cruise control, etc. but it will save me a few thousand bucks and I like driving a manual better.
I'm not sure about the computer either. Worst case I'll get mine flashed. I know on the 97 & earlier trucks you can swap the E4OD for a C6 or a manual without any computer problems. It will set a couple of codes but won't set the MIL.
My goal is to get this done and have it back on the road by Labor Day.
I also want to do:
turbo rebuild
delete EBPV
compressor wheel
boots & clamps
HPX and FRX
plenums
Good lord, just realized I put manual V10 in my previous post That's what squeezing a post in on 'break' will do to ya, lol.
There's a few threads on here detailing peoples' swaps to a ZF6, etc. Labor intensive but overall not too bad. I'm in no rush to drive another manual trans diesel personally, not after Katrina and other major traffic situations. Manuals are fun to drive, but I'm over the diesel side of it. Plus mine is at the point where it'd be substantially slower with a manual
Rest of the plans look solid, pretty much everything I've done to mine already and well worth it. Just waking up so I cant think of anything else to add, they'll come to me later
I think a manual swap is probably going to cost $3500 or more by the time I'm done with all the little odds and ends. It isn't quite the savings I thought it would after adding up a few of the odds and ends.
So I'm leaning towards BTS. As soon as the weather stops being crappy every other day I can get on with this project.
For some reason I seem to think you are in the Sacramento area ?
If so I have a few local resources I can point you towards.
Somebody else mentioned it but I'll reiterate it because it's critical.
Replace your trans cooler. They are to inexpensive nowadays to mess with trying to flush out. Not worth the gamble. Rockauto has 6.0 coolers cheap.
Yes I'm in Granite Bay... I should probably update my location but I was living in my RV full time for about a year and a half.
Rockauto has 6.0 coolers, but they are aftermarket and not a direct fit. I bought the $330 one from Riff Raff because it's an OEM replacement.
Also, my transmission has not failed and put a bunch of debris and clutch material into the cooler. It still runs, drives, and shifts fine. It just won't stay in gear going down a hill and that's the only reason it's getting replaced.
I just can't see spending another $330 on a new cooler when there is nothing wrong with this one. It will have a screw-on filter on it between the cooler and the trans before it ever turns over.
Rockauto has 6.0 coolers, but they are aftermarket and not a direct fit.
They are aftermarket, but they are still a direct fit. Plus, they've been out long enough (IMO) and have functioned well enough to say it isn't much of a gamble to go aftermarket and save money, versus paying the crazy OEM price from Ford.
They are aftermarket, but they are still a direct fit. Plus, they've been out long enough (IMO) and have functioned well enough to say it isn't much of a gamble to go aftermarket and save money, versus paying the crazy OEM price from Ford.
Stewart
Hmm... none of the ones I saw looked to be a direct fit, but maybe they just have generic pictures posted instead.
I've broken, blown up, ruined, burnt up, etc many autos in my day, from very expensive race to stockers including 3 4r100 and just my experience that if it's broken enough to need to come out and be repaired then there are likely things stuck in the plates of a plate style color that I do not want in my expensive new trans.
For a $160 for a OEM replacement from Dorman it would not even be a question in my book. But I get it, everybody has their own risk tolerance and expectations and of course budget is always a factor. I was just trying to pass on some hard ( and expensive ) learned lessons.
For your Billet converter give P&D converters a call
916-921-6600
1328 Dixieanne Avenue
Sacramento, CA 95815
They custom build them in house and can accomadate any spec you may want.
I have had them build several billet race converters and if I didn't get the stall just right for what I was trying to build they were happy to cut it open and make changes until it was perfect. No additional charge.
They might not have have the national brand following but trust me, these guys know what's up. Plus you can literally stand in the shop and watch them build your stuff. Likely to save a couple hundo off the "big name brands" to boot.
I have one on my 7.3 ex and know several other who do as well. Proven product.