Thanks for the advice! As for fuel mixing in the crankcase, I was thinking if that may be happening. However, my oil level was super low so it wasn't rising.

- The oil loss issue -

I believe me hooking a larger hose from the CCV box to the front of the 6637 filter may have caused my massive oil loss though. That's the only thing I changed since my last oil change (and previously had no noticeable loss of oil). I suppose having the hose on the front of the filter causes a much larger vacuum to apply to the crankcase vent and sucks in most of the oil. I know the stock supply line is after the filter, and has an angled pipe sticking up which seems like it would help prevent oil from being sucked up. I will try and see if I can get another metal intake tube that has that pipe in place. The PO ripped mine out so I can't hook up the CCV hose to the original spot (I don't like the smoke coming from the hose when it's not hooked up either so I do want to route it back soon.) It am still a little skeptical of the fuel system, so I'll have to see if the oil level is rising now that I unhooked the CCV hose.

- Hard starting issue -

As for air in the HPOP, I'm thinking that's probably what the issue was. I got it started after about 6 full seconds last night and drove it semi aggressively around for about 15 to 20 miles. It seemed to drive great in all 3 tunes I have. After shutting it down, it started right back up with no problems. However, it wouldn't start this morning before heading to work (and I cranked for about 20 seconds two times.) When I got home, I checked the HPOP reservoir and it was full to the top. I tried starting the truck and could hear my glow plug relay whine very oddly and 'pathetically'. I'm guessing the O'Reilly glow plug relay went out so the truck wouldn't start due to it being too cold. It started immediately when I tried today after getting back from work.

- Fuel PSI -

I researched the BB mod last night and some at work today during my off time. I'm about ready to give that a shot just because I feel like my fuel PSI may be lower than it should be, especially with Stage 1 injectors.





- Other info -

I'm pretty worried about the HPOP reservoir plug. The threads on the HPOP reservoir are very badly stripped now, and I can see pieces of the threads coming out each time I undo the plug to check the HPOP level. I'm going to have to find a way to fix this...... Tapping the hole with the HPOP reservoir installed on the engine would probably be a terrible idea wouldn't it?

If I have to buy a new reservoir, since my engine is a 95, do I have to get a 95 reservoir as well, or do I just have to make sure to get the proper HPOP reservoir gasket?

Also, with the potential oil leaks, most of the oil seems to be puddling off the starter right next to the bell-housing. I followed the wetness up and it APPEARS that the oil is coming from the rear of the exhaust manifolds (both drive and passenger side rear manifolds are wet.) I can only guess that the valve covers are what would be leaking to have wetness on the rear of the exhaust manifolds right? I tried tightening both valve covers last night, so I'm going to see if it continues to get wet back there.






Anyways, thanks for the advice and I'll post up more what I find out. I'm off to do that BB mod now and see how things go from there.

 

Well the BB mod only took me about 3 hours.... I dropped the stupid spring housing when I opened the 19mm nut and couldn't find it in the valley. After fishing around for 35 minutes, I proceded to take off the turbo intake thing and the fuel bowl. Then the O-ring from the turbo to the intake tube spilt. I did find the spring housing, but had to go hunt for an O-ring which I found one the right size at Ace Hardware!

The Bronco seemed to fire right up and the fuel pressure is now at around 52 to 54 at idle. I'm pretty sure the pump is leaking (or potentially the banjo bolt), so I'm going to save for electric fuel to replace that whole system anyways. Hopefully this will get me by for about a month though.

I still think I may be leaking some oil as well, but part of that is probably fuel dripping down too, so I'm hoping the electric fuel kit will mostly erradicate any leaking. I'll just have to make sure I'm not burning/leaking oil like I was so I'll be checking the oil level prety constantly. If it is leaking, I'm not too sure where it would be leaking from because it seems to be coming from around the exhaust manifold to up-pipe area.

Could something from the turbo leak down to there when the truck is off?

 

It sounds like it is a fuel leak at the back of the heads. The supply lines go into a vibra lock fitting. The orings were rotted out on mine.

 

These fuel systems will run a lot happier at 60-70 PSi than they do at 40. If you get those pressures up, you'll be helping yourself in the long run.

 

BB mod made my spring bend and make less pressure. Side of spring was shiny after


I bought a new spring and it raised my pressure up correctly

 

I think I'm going to go ahead and order an E-fuel setup soon.

I won't have the money for another two weeks, but I could put it on my card and pay it off then. My idle pressure is really around 48 after everything is warmed up, so I probably do need a new spring and maybe new pump as well, so I figure E-fuel will be a good upgrade now.


I believe I am leaking fuel pretty badly as well too. I did replace the o-rings in the rear fuel rail lines and they seemed pretty dry when I tried peeking back there, so I don't believe that's the spot that's leaking fuel. I got about 15.8MPG which is 2.5 to 3 lower than what I've been getting. I think my valve covers are also leaking oil though since it's still dripping underneath.

I thought I recalled there being some sort of brace that went on the rear of the valve cover to flatten it down when it was bolted up. I don't know where I put those and think those may help with the potential leak I have back there. Then again, maybe I never had those and was just thinking I did.... I can't seem to find what they may be online anywhere so I could be thinking stuff up.

 

I don't know if I have ever seen a valve cover gasket leak on these engines, they are pretty reliable. Have you checked the oil rail plug on the rear of the head? They are sealed with an o-ring. They take a 1/2 drive ratchet to remove. There are 4 total on the heads. One on the front, and one on the rear of each head.

 

I'll take a peek and see if maybe that's what's leaking then. It appears to be coming from around the rear of my valve cover but more-so on the side of the engine. I'm assuming the plugs are on the rear and front faces of the heads right? I can't recall replacing any oil rail plug o-rings when I resealed the motor while it was out so maybe it is coming from that.

The leaks seem to accumulate a bit on the exhaust manifold to up-pipe connection on both sides, but the driver side is more wet all around (on the manifold and block). The passenger side has the biggest accumulation of wetness on the start to bell-housing area, but the manifold to up-pipe is still somewhat wet.

It doesn't appear that the leak is coming too much or at all from the drain hole in the back of the valley.

 

Valve cover brace is a heat shield. It really don't brace much with middle bolt not doing anything.

 

Ah okay well that's good to know then. I couldn't quite remember what it looked like, and couldn't find it so I won't be putting those back on my valve covers!

Even though I just put new oil in it, the majority of the wetness I'm starting to get now seems too thin to be just oil. B-rad's truck leaks a little bit of oil, but you can tell for sure it's all just oil. It's thick and black, while mine is somewhat thin and semi-transparent. There is definitely some oil in it, but I think it's more fuel than oil.

I suppose I'll live with this leaking for now (while constantly checking my oil level just in case removing that CCV hose isn't the main culprit). I'll be ordering E-fuel probably next week so that I only have a negative balance on my credit card for a week since it'll be two weeks before I get paid again!

If E-fuel doesn't stop the majority of my leaking, then I'm guess I'll be looking at my turbo next. It makes great boost (I've made above 30psi before but I try not to boost the stock turbo that high), but maybe it could be eating/leaking oil as well? It seems dry around the pedestal (I replaced the o-rings) and I don't see really any oil draining down the hole in the back of the valley so I don't suspect it to be leaking from the EBPV thing either.

 

So, I checked my oil yesterday and realized the level IS rising.

The oil on the dipstick looks too clean as well, so I'm suspecting fuel is getting into the oil.


Would the main cause of this be because of the fuel pump leaking fuel into the crankcase like DIYmechanic mentioned? I'm thinking it probably is.

What other ways could fuel leak into the oil? I read injector o-rings could cause this as well, but they are quite new with the Rosewood state 1's I got and I don't believe I messed the install up. I'd also think that the oil would go into the fuel, not the other way around, due to the much higher oil pressure.

 

don't buy the parts truck. Do efuel on this thing.

 

Yeah... that's what I'm debating now in my head too....

The biggest reason why I'm debating over it so much is that I was planning on getting another vehicle already before I go on active duty and this one seems to be so cheap and apparently have nothing mechanically wrong with it.

That doesn't mean there isn't anything wrong though.... and I may not even get enough money for it before this weekend or not like something about it if I do go up to test it out.

Either way, I think I'm going to get E-fuel on the Bronco before I start driving it again. I don't know how long the fuel has been getting into the crankcase, but I can imagine it's in my best interest to fix quickly.

 

Fuel pump could leak into crank case from the plunger that rides on the cam

 

I think your fuel pump is bad.

Injector o-rings don't leak fuel into the oil since the fuel is only at something around 50-70 PSI and the oil is somewhere between 650-2500 PSI. If the injectors are shot sometime you can end up with fuel in the oil, but your truck runs good and the injectors are brand new (rebuilds) from one of the best in the business.

I blame the pump.