Updating brakes
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 1,612
From: Seattle
https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-36117-...2F16%22+bender
.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Is this approximately equivalent to your Ridgid set?
https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-36117-...2F16%22+bender
.
https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-36117-...2F16%22+bender
.
Ridgid 36117 3/16" Combination Tube Bender (403)
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 1,612
From: Seattle
I bought my 3/16" Ridgid tubing bender back in the '90s. This seems to be more the version I have, although about $20 dollars more than what it was at the time I bought mine more than 20 years ago.
Ridgid 36117 3/16" Combination Tube Bender (403)
Ridgid 36117 3/16" Combination Tube Bender (403)
Those seem to both be Ridgid 36117 benders. I wonder if there is really a difference between the 36117 on Amazon versus this one? Or something different even though they seem to use the same numbering? One would hope not.
Chad
.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
The one in your link looks a little different to me as far as the handles and the grips goes, compared to what I have and in the link I posted.
Whatever difference, if actually any, I'm sure either would be a good set to have. My benders have over 20 years use on them and they still make nice very bends.
Whatever difference, if actually any, I'm sure either would be a good set to have. My benders have over 20 years use on them and they still make nice very bends.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
You can always tell the difference between a line that was hand bent, vs ones that were bent with a tubing bender.
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
It is for sale on Craigslist and says that it has no brakes so it needs a tow.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 70
From: Southern Maryland
I have a '66F250 that I've upgraded to a dual master cylinder, but kept the drum brakes all around.
I am using a Wagner dual chamber MC for a '67F250, and purchased a distribution block off eBay for a 67 Galaxie(entrance fittings for each line from MC, 2 exit fittings for front, 1 for rears). Had to custom make a bracket to mount it.
Bought pre-bent 3/16 inch SS brake lines from InLine Tube for a '67F250 and they all mounted perfectly on the '66 frame and connected perfectly to the distribution block and the fittings at each drum and rear axle housing.
The only mod I needed was to reverse the fittings on the two lines from the MC to the distribution block to fit the entrance fittings. I had InLine do that for me.(mods not expensive, but USPS wasn't cheap) They did a great job and added protection coiling to exposed legs from bracket at PS box to distribution block.
I'll mount a Tee with an 1/8NPT at the exit to the rear chamber to mount the line-pressure activated brake light switch.
Overall, keeps the set-up fairly close to original but increases safety with dual MC.
I am using a Wagner dual chamber MC for a '67F250, and purchased a distribution block off eBay for a 67 Galaxie(entrance fittings for each line from MC, 2 exit fittings for front, 1 for rears). Had to custom make a bracket to mount it.
Bought pre-bent 3/16 inch SS brake lines from InLine Tube for a '67F250 and they all mounted perfectly on the '66 frame and connected perfectly to the distribution block and the fittings at each drum and rear axle housing.
The only mod I needed was to reverse the fittings on the two lines from the MC to the distribution block to fit the entrance fittings. I had InLine do that for me.(mods not expensive, but USPS wasn't cheap) They did a great job and added protection coiling to exposed legs from bracket at PS box to distribution block.
I'll mount a Tee with an 1/8NPT at the exit to the rear chamber to mount the line-pressure activated brake light switch.
Overall, keeps the set-up fairly close to original but increases safety with dual MC.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
I have a 65 that I added a power brake booster with a double MC from MP brakes. The original MC was the single line MC with one tube down to a tee under the steering box. I did like you kept the drums all around. MP brakes sent me a MC designed for drums all around and thus did not require a proportioning valve. I disconnected the brake line to the front wheels from the tee and installed a plug. I then ran two lines down from the MC one when to the tee to the back wheels and the other line went to the line to the front wheels with a coupling. Works great. The only problem (there always is a problem with after market parts) was the bracket did not fit and I had to cut it and weld it back together in a different configuration.
MP brakes was very good about it and offered to refund my money but I wanted the power brakes so I fixed it.
When you run new brake lines use the new tubing that is flexible and easy to flare. I also put a tee in the line and used the original brake switch for the brake lights.
MP brakes was very good about it and offered to refund my money but I wanted the power brakes so I fixed it.
When you run new brake lines use the new tubing that is flexible and easy to flare. I also put a tee in the line and used the original brake switch for the brake lights.
I'm having to do the same brake work to my 63 F350 dually. Do you have any pictures of your set-up?
thanks
Dan
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver
The first time I did this I added a '67 dual mc and ran one line to a front splitter and one to the the rear axle, adding a Wilwood prop valve in the rear line at the mc. I had no other components in the system and it worked fine.
Eric
Eric
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
One question to double check my memory since I can't recall where I read it. When measuring your length of line from point A to B how much extra needs to be added to account for the flare and not be short? I recall the amount of 1/4" for each flare.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
I'm also in the power drum camp with a dual MC. I went with a 68 F100 distribution block so I could use pre-fabbed lines to save time. However, another possible solution would be to use the original single feed MC block to feed the front drums and fab a line from the block (at the rear line) up to the booster area with a 3/16 inverted flare to 1/8 female NPT brass fitting for the original brake switch. If I wasn't in a hurry to get my truck back on the road I probably would have done that myself.
I put a Tee in the line to install the pressure activated brake light switch into.
