I'm running TorquePro already, that's how I know the temps while I've been driving. I'm also swapping my 05-07 lights over to the new green one, but this one has a bulb upgrade cuz its pretty bright already (just ran to the store in the dark). Battery levels look good, they're new. Starter could use an upgrade to the 6.4 probably.

I'll check the 6.0 forum tech folder for sure. I'm also probably going to have Ranaway Diesel in Duvall inspect it. (That's not the shop I bought it from, Ranaway services the rest of the 6.0s in the family)

thanks for the input and links.

 

@NW nice Excursion you found.

Blue spring upgrade been done yet?

 

Thanks, even if it ends up needing a motor overhaul sometime it'll be far more worth it than my white Ex considering how clean this new one is.

Supposedly, but yet to be confirmed. Turbo and I are going to give it a big lookover soon, but I've already got oil/fuel filters, overflow cap, and tstat coming and we're going to flush it because the seller's diesel shop put Ford Green in it I believe, also yet to be 100% confirmed.

Regarding the temps - fun story: Got to work today, oil/coolant only hit 180s on a hill climb, otherwise 160s-170s. Get to work at low 170s and pop the hood, grab the radiator return hose and guess what? Tstat is wide open, full flow. Getting very, very skeptical with this diesel shop (I've done zero business with them, the owner was the seller of the Ex.)

Also thinking about a 6.4 starter.

 

If they put the Ford additive package into the coolant that will turn it a green color.
One of the first things i had to do to mine was a full flush. It was full of true green.
It now has Shell yellow ELC. You can use both the red or the yellow.

Have you asked about that injector they installed?

 

Good to know, I will look into those. The shop dumped fresh Ford Green in after they swapped the injector.
Speaking of the injector - the shop tells me the previous owner had the injectors replaced with Ford Reman'd injectors, I will check the paperwork. One was still throwing Low Contribution and the only thing noticable was a shudder at about 70MPH. Turbo and I drove it before the new injector went in and couldn't notice anything at city speeds. I've done 70 a few times since the new injector went in and haven't noticed anything.

Here's my latest gauge readings I was monitoring while driving to work today for anybody interested. The oil and coolant temps are on the hotter side of what they hit. This was before I'd established that the tstat appears to be wide open.

 

Just an FYI: I can get VCM2, IDS clones if you want one.

 

I may take you up on that.

 

When you are ready to talk about it just send me a PM.

 

Hey Sean,

Did Ford get things squared away on the 6.0 for the ‘06 and ‘07 model years? I had a deal working on my dream F-250 back in 2007, but just couldn’t pull the trigger. I ended up buying a GMC and have always wondered if I should have gone with the 6.0.

 

In 2007 they still had some bugs. Like the STC fitting and the stand pipe dummy plugs.
But not a hard fix the bigger issue was mechanics that didn't do there diagnostics correctly
or never bothered and just started throwing parts at it. The last part was the FICM failure
do to low voltage and the undersized charging system. 110amp alt is just not enough to
recover the loss from a start with glow plugs.

There are other problems but most if not all are owner/driver induced. You just can't go with
out changing the oil and using the correct filters. The other one is letting the fuel filter go for
more than 15K miles. The injectors don't do well at low pressures,

Like I said owner caused problems and nitpickers.

EDIT: You would think that a Ford shop you do things the correct way. Not all the time
and the 6.0L is one example of short cuts that cost money and engines.

 

Good info, thanks for sharing. I still dream of that truck as “the one that got away”. The Duramax I bought instead was amazing, but the rest of the truck was sheet. With all this talk of rebuilding 6.0’s, it’s hard not to revisit that truck and wonder if I could have built it into a tank.

And cheers to Thursday!

 

@Onug I think the 6.0 is a Solid Engine with the right work done. That said it does require someone with knowledge, patience and money to keep them on the road.

I would entertain one as an 2005 Excursion for my next rig. Otherwise it would probably be a 6.2 12+ Super Duty.

 

The $ part has not been that high. It's taking the time to learn how to
keep it running correctly. Yes parts money but the right parts last longer.
You can't go to Joe's injector shop on the corner and expect to get something
that will hold up. I think that is part of the problem. Too many off brand
parts that fail and cause even more damage.

 

Got a checkup appointment in a couple weeks with Ranaway Diesel out in Duvall to spend two hours going over the 6.0 and tell me what they think about it's current condition. I think I've mentioned before that we've had all the other 6.0s out there and we like their quality of work and knowledge.

Picking up some Rotella ELC at Tractor Supply tomorrow to get ready to flush the green coolant out of the 6.0. Already have flush, just waiting on tstat from rockauto, won't be here until mid-week. I'm personally opting to wait for the tstat because I'd prefer to run the flush at operating temps and the Ex does not reach operating temps with the failed tstat that is in already, so it probably won't with the tstat pulled either. Someone can chime in if you think I can get the water+flush to heat up substantially more than the green coolant. If that is the case I could start the flush this weekend and run a few flushes before the tstat gets here mid-week and then drop the ELC in with the tstat.

I mucked around with TorquePro app today and used some of the great DieselTechRon youtube videos to get it setup the way I want it for future monitoring. Here's a screenshot, but I haven't run it in the Ex yet as I left it at home and drove the Subaru today.

I've got one page that I'll use when starting, as it has bigger gauges of just the info I care about when starting. Then I've got a second page with lots more data being logged that I'll swipe to after the rig is running. I also learned that you can turn on a setting to trigger faster data retrieval and you can also turn off MPG calculations to get data even faster from the ECU, so I set it up that way and will see how fast data gets polled, as it isn't terrible yet on default settings, but leaves some to be desired.

Here's the starting page:


and here's the monitoring page:

 

If you not using any chemicals during the flush I would not worry about the temp.
Also if you have a good delta (I know not getting up to temp tosses it all out) I
would not use any chemicals to flush with. You just need to run a load of water
through it. If you use hose water then you can finish up with 30 gallons of distilled
water. AND don't skip the step so many do and not remove the block drains. They
must come out to kick the stuff done in the block out.

One trick I do is after each flush cycle I remove the host leading to the heater core and
blow it out with air.

For the first and second flush I also remove the lower radiator hose and the top one
and just let it gush out the lower one. I thin take the hose and run water up through
the radiator so that any crud that is on the top of the cooling lines is forces out. The
reason I do that step is there have been a few people that have repeat oil cooler plugging.
The issue turned out to be holding a lot of crud up on top. only way to remove it is to
back flush or a new radiator. Back flushing costs less.

I more or less do what SrMasterTech did without the chemicals.