1Legs 2001 F250 CCSB 4wd/Auto build thread
#16
I change the oil and filter.
Did a drain and refill on the trans. Trans was at least 2 or so quarts low. Flush, new cooler and trans lineso will be needed soon.
I'm pretty sure this thing is leaking from the back and top of the engine, and it is leaking bad. After the smog test on Monday it is going to be parked tell repaired.
Did a drain and refill on the trans. Trans was at least 2 or so quarts low. Flush, new cooler and trans lineso will be needed soon.
I'm pretty sure this thing is leaking from the back and top of the engine, and it is leaking bad. After the smog test on Monday it is going to be parked tell repaired.
#17
Passed smog today, next trip to DMV for a title transfer.
I will start to do a tare down of the top of the motor to hopefully eliminate some really bad oil leaks. I bought a punch of o-rings and parts from RiffRaff Diesel along with e EBPV delete pedestal. I will also be adding a fuel pressure gauge to help with future diagnostics.
The truck really seems to be running a lot better now that I change the oil. After some reading what I did was use 1 gallon of Rotella T5 10/30 then the rest was the regular T4 15/40 oil I also added some Archoil that I bought a few months ago. It starts right up with no issues at all and idle seems to be much better and quieted down some.
I see alot of guy do the foil delete but has any one replaced it with header rap. Mine is look like crap thought I might do this while I have everything tore apart. Might also send stuff out for ceramic coating.
I will start to do a tare down of the top of the motor to hopefully eliminate some really bad oil leaks. I bought a punch of o-rings and parts from RiffRaff Diesel along with e EBPV delete pedestal. I will also be adding a fuel pressure gauge to help with future diagnostics.
The truck really seems to be running a lot better now that I change the oil. After some reading what I did was use 1 gallon of Rotella T5 10/30 then the rest was the regular T4 15/40 oil I also added some Archoil that I bought a few months ago. It starts right up with no issues at all and idle seems to be much better and quieted down some.
I see alot of guy do the foil delete but has any one replaced it with header rap. Mine is look like crap thought I might do this while I have everything tore apart. Might also send stuff out for ceramic coating.
#22
plan is to start tomorrow night. But It will take a little while. I plan to take out both battery box's and the top end wire harness the go through it. Also take the IC pipes out for cleaning. Really just want to take my time and get everything cleaned up and. Checked out. I will try and take some pictures along the way.
#23
If its the drop in kn filter, then I've read them not seeing very good, but the FIPK kit fine, except the price.
If needing v to jump on the wagon, then go with a 6637 for now, if moneys tight...
in v regards to the foil delete, if you must, just remove where there's no components that rest on it...wire loom, where the bolt from the p/s unit hits, map line..etc, or you'll be ziptying alot down to keep them at bay so they don't wear a hole in the pipes overtime
If needing v to jump on the wagon, then go with a 6637 for now, if moneys tight...
in v regards to the foil delete, if you must, just remove where there's no components that rest on it...wire loom, where the bolt from the p/s unit hits, map line..etc, or you'll be ziptying alot down to keep them at bay so they don't wear a hole in the pipes overtime
#24
#25
Thanks I think it's the best way to insure no leaks from the ebpv. I was going to go cheap and do the mill and weld which I could do for free. But 98 buck at riffraff settled it for me. Just easier.
#26
Just to let everyone know that the k&n is the cold air intake system and not just the drop in replacement. I replaced the filter with a new one and added the cover. I plan to build a box around it someday to seal it better from engine heat. If the truck still had the stock air filter I would have done the 6637 filter but the stock inlet hose is gone. It was just cheaper and easier to replace the k&n
#27
Started the EBPV delete today. I found the leak The turbo bolts were finger tight. I had to order some more part from RiffRaff. I'm get the billet plenum inserts along with new boot and clamp. Also doing a AIH delete. Everything came out fine until the back clamp for the up-pipe to turbo didn't want to un-clamp.
It appears the EBPV was disconnected from the actuator and it was not hardwired open I suspect the valve may have been closed. I have removed the valve from the housing and will be getting some plug inserted this week.
Hope to have everything cleaned up and back together by next weekend.
Turbo will need a rebuild soon. I may look for a good core to rebuild.
It appears the EBPV was disconnected from the actuator and it was not hardwired open I suspect the valve may have been closed. I have removed the valve from the housing and will be getting some plug inserted this week.
Hope to have everything cleaned up and back together by next weekend.
Turbo will need a rebuild soon. I may look for a good core to rebuild.
#30