1979 F-100 Brakes
#1
1979 F-100 Brakes
My Mom just bought herself a 79 F-100, the brakes are squealing, I'm thinking they need new pads, I've done the pads and rotors on my car and it's just two bolts to remover the caliper and a screw holding on the rotor, I'm guessing it's not gonna be that easy with this truck, anybody got any advice?
#2
Pull the caliper off, and use a c-clamp on the pad to push the piston back into the caliper. Then change the pad and reinstall the caliper
That way, you're not opening the system and won't need to bleed the brakes
Not sure about the F100, but on the bigger trucks, the caliper slides on a "pin" - a diamond shaped piece of metal with a rubber core. Squeeze the end to make it smaller, then drive it out with a punch
That way, you're not opening the system and won't need to bleed the brakes
Not sure about the F100, but on the bigger trucks, the caliper slides on a "pin" - a diamond shaped piece of metal with a rubber core. Squeeze the end to make it smaller, then drive it out with a punch
#3
Welcome to FTE. When you go to the parts store to get the brake shoes, get a Chiltons or Hanes manual ($12.00?) and get a 6" C clamp. It is really easy to do the fronts.
Spray PB blaster the one bolt (key retaining screw) that holds the (caliper support) and (caliper support spring) in place. Once that is out, tap both out with a hammer and punch and then pull the caliper off.
Remove outer brake shoe pad, then YES use a c-clamp to press the inner brake shoe and caliper piston back in. Make sure you remove the master cylinder lid and have a rag over the top and underneath it.
Install both new brake pads, put the caliper back on, tap the caliper support with the spring back in, so the notch is down and anti-siez the bolt before you install it. Do not over torque it.
Ck m/s fluid level, top off, lid on w/bail, start truck, slowly apply brakes, till firm. Shut off the truck, ck m/s fluid level again, top off if needed, take on test drive for mom. Make her lunch to be a good son.
I included some other pics for the rear drum set up if you have to get that deep into it.
Spray PB blaster the one bolt (key retaining screw) that holds the (caliper support) and (caliper support spring) in place. Once that is out, tap both out with a hammer and punch and then pull the caliper off.
Remove outer brake shoe pad, then YES use a c-clamp to press the inner brake shoe and caliper piston back in. Make sure you remove the master cylinder lid and have a rag over the top and underneath it.
Install both new brake pads, put the caliper back on, tap the caliper support with the spring back in, so the notch is down and anti-siez the bolt before you install it. Do not over torque it.
Ck m/s fluid level, top off, lid on w/bail, start truck, slowly apply brakes, till firm. Shut off the truck, ck m/s fluid level again, top off if needed, take on test drive for mom. Make her lunch to be a good son.
I included some other pics for the rear drum set up if you have to get that deep into it.
#4
#5
#6
Hello, I just went through my front brakes, my rotors were original so I kept them as they were in real good shape. But if yours are just warped have them turned. Most places charge about $10.00 for turning them to specs. New ones are likely chinese materials and low quality.
#7
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