New PCM no help for High Rough Idle
#1
New PCM no help for High Rough Idle
It was mentioned that I should only have one thread so this is it. Due to a high rough idle (now about 975rpm at idle and rough) I just replaced the PCM with no help.
Here is what I have done so far: 1. New EGR and sensor 2. New MAP 3. New ICM 4. New IAC and sensor 5. Smoke test for leak twice (one leak found and fixed) 6.New water pump 7. New PS pump 8. New PCM 9. TB cleaned OOPS. 10. Timing reset with new PCM. 10. New Manifold gasket. 11. All new gaskets 12. Before I bought the truck the PO recently replaced the Distributor, Spark Plugs, Plug Wires and fuel Pumps etc. 13. Air filter replaced. ALL fluids changed. New brake pads and rotors.
These are the items that I think are still suspect. 1. Fuel Injectors 2. Smog pump bearing growling on start up occasionally. Info suggest a bad Smog pump can cause my symptoms but usually throws a code. I have NO KOEO codes. 3. Throttle body. 4. Coil 5. Plugs gaped properly. Before the PCM was replaced I was throwing the SPOUT OPEN code. It is gone with new PCM for now. 6. Bad Distributor or components? 7. PCV valve
There may be other things I have done but I think this is it for major parts.
I have a MM but I am electrically challenged but with explanation can do it. I have a CHILTON AND HAYNES manual. What would the informed do at this point to fix the high rough idle? Any help would be appreciated. Sorry for the long post but I needed to get it all in one Thread. Sandy
Here is what I have done so far: 1. New EGR and sensor 2. New MAP 3. New ICM 4. New IAC and sensor 5. Smoke test for leak twice (one leak found and fixed) 6.New water pump 7. New PS pump 8. New PCM 9. TB cleaned OOPS. 10. Timing reset with new PCM. 10. New Manifold gasket. 11. All new gaskets 12. Before I bought the truck the PO recently replaced the Distributor, Spark Plugs, Plug Wires and fuel Pumps etc. 13. Air filter replaced. ALL fluids changed. New brake pads and rotors.
These are the items that I think are still suspect. 1. Fuel Injectors 2. Smog pump bearing growling on start up occasionally. Info suggest a bad Smog pump can cause my symptoms but usually throws a code. I have NO KOEO codes. 3. Throttle body. 4. Coil 5. Plugs gaped properly. Before the PCM was replaced I was throwing the SPOUT OPEN code. It is gone with new PCM for now. 6. Bad Distributor or components? 7. PCV valve
There may be other things I have done but I think this is it for major parts.
I have a MM but I am electrically challenged but with explanation can do it. I have a CHILTON AND HAYNES manual. What would the informed do at this point to fix the high rough idle? Any help would be appreciated. Sorry for the long post but I needed to get it all in one Thread. Sandy
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Mobile 1 5w30 Wix filter. South Texas No compression test done.
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Just looked at my list and I did check it and it was good.
One other point is, if I disconnect the IAC I have no change in idle. If I pull the vac line off the EGR there is no change at idle. Both of these components are new and I have tested them.
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#9
I was given an 89 F350 5.0 with a no start/no fuel pressure issue. The ECU was toast. I bought one from Cardone, the truck started and ran but had the same symptoms as yours. Turned out the ECU (rebuilt) was bad and there was nor power to the IAC or EGR. I found a thread somewhere here on how to check for voltage. Took it back and got another. Runs like a champ now.
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I was thinking the same thing when I looked at it earlier today...
The canister purge solenoid plug would be bigger.
That looks like a fuel injector plug to me.
GOOD CALL It sure as hell is ^*&#*%^@#*#&.... That is a great lesson. Start with the basics which I didn't do. I honestly believe the PO's shop left it off. I did take the manifold off to change the VC gasket but I never got into the injectors, so I don't think I did it. Doesn't matter now anyway. Earlier I pulled the plugs and the one by the firewall was not tight. I KNOW I didn't do that.
When I was trying to plug the injector in I was disconnecting the vac line shown in the picture. While pulling the line the end pulled out under the manifold and I can't see where it goes. It also broke when I was trying to find the connection. I will need some hard vac line but can you tell me where it hooks up. I did start the truck and it is smooth as you can imagine. Idle is still high but I will look at the timing again (If you think I should), and of course it has a vac leak now. I will repair the line and see where I stand then.
Thanks so much guys for the help. I can't wait to repair the line and see what happens.
The canister purge solenoid plug would be bigger.
That looks like a fuel injector plug to me.
GOOD CALL It sure as hell is ^*&#*%^@#*#&.... That is a great lesson. Start with the basics which I didn't do. I honestly believe the PO's shop left it off. I did take the manifold off to change the VC gasket but I never got into the injectors, so I don't think I did it. Doesn't matter now anyway. Earlier I pulled the plugs and the one by the firewall was not tight. I KNOW I didn't do that.
When I was trying to plug the injector in I was disconnecting the vac line shown in the picture. While pulling the line the end pulled out under the manifold and I can't see where it goes. It also broke when I was trying to find the connection. I will need some hard vac line but can you tell me where it hooks up. I did start the truck and it is smooth as you can imagine. Idle is still high but I will look at the timing again (If you think I should), and of course it has a vac leak now. I will repair the line and see where I stand then.
Thanks so much guys for the help. I can't wait to repair the line and see what happens.
#14
Just glad you found one of the main contributors to your problem. as for the vacuum line in the pic just take a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the end that broke off out and shove the hard line back in. Should be able to get by with that. my truck has a 302 so I can't help on the vacuum line origin until Monday when I go back to work. we got a 96 f150 with the straight 6 in it I can use to reference location on. does your truck still have the vacuum routing sticker?
#15
Just glad you found one of the main contributors to your problem. as for the vacuum line in the pic just take a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the end that broke off out and shove the hard line back in. Should be able to get by with that. my truck has a 302 so I can't help on the vacuum line origin until Monday when I go back to work. we got a 96 f150 with the straight 6 in it I can use to reference location on. does your truck still have the vacuum routing sticker?