i have for a few, need to compleat the high beam and turn indicators still

 

Consider not shopping based off the 'description' (ex: warm, bright, etc . . .) as it is highly subjective. Go with the 'temperature' as listed in Kelvin or K. Personally, I avoid any seller that only states the color by 'description' and not 'temperature'.

Here is a quick run-down on what to look for in terms of temperature:
- 8K is getting into the purple range and most avoid it for places where they want to actually see anything.
- 6K gives a blue-ish tint to the light where some like it but most find it annoying.
- 5K gives a nice sharp white and is good for markers (license, etc) and the interior.
- 2,700 - 3K is closer to the incandescent bulb and has more yellow / brown to it.

Aside, for lighting inside the house (120v) keeping the LED temperature in the 2,700 - 3K range is desirable for most of the living spaces.

My experience with cheaper LED bulbs is that it not necessarily better, especially for dual-element bulbs (ex: blinker / marker combination. Bulb styles 1157, 3157, etc) as the difference from low to high is minimal which makes it difficult to tell when the blinkers are 'On' as opposed to just the marker.

For dual element LED's, take a look at v-leds.com. They are expensive and you get what you pay for as the products and customer support are great.

Last item, if putting the LED in back of a colored lens, use the same color LED (ex: amber LED in back of an amber lens). Avoid using a white LED in back of a colored lens as it results in color shift (yellow will appear canary and red will appear pink).

 

This and Carid has bulbs called Lumen "Plazma" bulbs, I have them on my Mustang (will try to get the video of me testing them out) and they are also good quality, have had them for at least 5 years now I believe?? (can't honestly remember) and I am planning on buying more, again they are a "you pay for what you get" bulb and expensive (close to $20 per unit) but worth it by any means!!!

here is the video, I have amber in the front (clear lens) and two red in the rear (did not show as they do not flash)

 

You can go to www.superbrightleds.com and put in your vehicle info to get a list for whatever vehicle. I will say that if you have a car with a CANBUS (Audi, VW, etc.) then you'll need to get ones designed for that specific vehicle. I have used "Luyed" brand LEDs (bought from Amazon) and am extremely pleased with the light output and quality of them.

 

Got ur shining, but having a heart attack when wanting to turn. Them arrows gunna pop out of the cluster. Found out that the relay is located inside the dash, haha.. Wonderful! Will have to wait for the weekend to replace.. Playtimes' over til then....BTW, got 2-rear led flush mounts almost ready for install. Will start new thread on them 😉

 

The ef27l is not allowing the blinkers to function. I reinstall the OEM and they start blinking fast...

 

What is it doing? Nothing at all?

 

It ain't doing anything

 

Maybe you have a bad relay? The blinking fast thing is normal on an original unit

 

Wonderful.... With key turned to acc with OEM relay, they blink fast. Swapped relay, key in same position and nothing.
Big sticker on box of relay...Tech Support call..xxx-xxxx, lol

 

Do you have a NAPA near you? That is where I got mine from and I have had no issues with it. I know that doesn't help your present relay, but if nothing else it will help you determine if yours is faulty

 

Good call Rik. I'm stuck because my gauges..etc that are mounted on the 650 dash, is ready to be put back. And that's really the only access to the relay, with that panel removed

 

I don't know if it is because mine is a 2002, but I can just reach up through the drivers footwell and pull that relay. Can even do it sat in the seat? That sucks if you do have to pull everything out to get to it!

 

To change out the dash lights, do you have to pull the dash apart, or is there an easier way to get them in?

 

Yes the dash needs to come apart to change out the instrument cluster lights