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Ive been looking at the adjustable cab mounts from mid fifty. And paying $60 each for what essentially is and adjustable heim joint seems a bit much. I know these have different ends. But based off of pictures of them installed I don't see any reason why the larger ends are needed. Mid fifty even days the rubber bushing is not needed. 1948-56 Ford F-100 Cab Mount Arm, Adjustable
I will guess that the tie rod option would not be wide enough to take up the space in the mounting flange. But that could easily be filled up with washers or some type of stainless steel spacers.
Great question. How would you address the arch of the dog bone? I was thinking of using Heim ends but never got too far on my design. Life does get in the way.
Great question. How would you address the arch of the dog bone? I was thinking of using Heim ends but never got too far on my design. Life does get in the way.
That's my question I guess. Why is that arch there? Does it need to be there? Here is a picture of the Midfify ones installed and from what I see in this picture it seems the two connecting holes are in a straight line for the most part. Way more so than the stock non adjustable.
If you have a solid floor in your cab why do you need adjustable mounts..? Problem might very well be the front cab mounts..
Thanks for the response. Respectfully that was not my question though. I don't have a problem. I am doing a complete 100% rebuild and the arms that I have are old as well as the bushings. So instead of me buying stock arms and new bushings I would rather put in something newer and modern that will allow for any issues down the road.
They seem to be offset so the rod/adjuster is straight but the ends end up very much like the original dogbone. I ended up buying the solid links like the larger trucks have for one of my 56s. No adjustment but $20 @.
Just a Thought: about the arch in the dogbone (I'm not a engineer and I can't afford to sleep at a Holiday Inn Express) but maybe the offset allows the rear of the cab to move right or left (thus the need for the triangle shaped rubber between the arm & the frame). If the arm and ends were in line there would be nothing to allow the cab to rock with the flexing of the frame.
Last edited by bjmayberry2; Dec 12, 2016 at 11:51 AM.
Reason: Added Just a Thought
I just think the adjustable ones are someone's for fixing something that isn't broke in the first place. Sorry ..
I can respect that. My thought is that this is a updated design on a flawed original design. This arms are prone to wear and fatigue based on the arch. As well as the rubber bushings.
Replacing both of these and eliminating the bushing extends the life span of this situation a great deal. Adding to that taking out the arch. The bad design here is that arch. If you take an curved piece of metal and put it in a vise and close that vise it will bend at that arch. This is essentially what is happening in the original cab mount. The cab and frame are acting as the vise and the constant pressure up and down will cause that arch to collapse.
Perhaps the issue with cab being offset is that the original style arm is warn and bent and not a bad floor or frame mount?
And what if the issue is a slightly bend frame and or cab not being 100% square. Most folks to not have the ability nor the desire to go through the process and resolve those issues to get to the next step of their project.
I do respect your thoughts on this and your opinion on looking past the quick fix and maybe resolve the lager issue. But again that was not my question in this thread.
I'm just looking for the reasons why something simpler and less expensive but equally as robust will not work just as well.
The large irregular shaped head of the adjustable cab mount works the same way as the "dogbone" shape of the original. It and the rubber bumper work together to keep the cab centered and level.
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