I'm looking for some advice on my 89 F250 7.3/ZF5 non-turbo. I bought it a few years ago to plow my driveway. Actually I bought it for the plow and the truck was a bonus for the price I paid. It's been used solely for plowing the driveway and doesn't get used on the road so it sees very little mileage each year. The truck has been good to me even in -50 weather.

When I bought it, it had a Mr. Gasket micro electric transfer pump(4-7psi 35gph) installed that worked for about 2-3 years. That pump died last year near the end of the Winter and being disabled and on a tight budget, I just replaced it with the same Mr. Gasket pump. The new pump died just as we started to get a foot of snow a couple of weeks ago. It had very little use on it so I replaced it with a NAPA E8153(10-14psi 35gph) pump which appears to be made by Airtex.

The truck ran great after installing the new pump. I ran it for about 1-2 hours plowing in the yard. But I have a few issues I'm concerned about. The kid at NAPA said it came with a filter. It didn't and I had already removed the old pump before realizing this. I had no way of getting to town to get a filter and I had to get the truck running asap so I installed it with no filter. The filter on the Mr. Gasket pump was too small to work with the new pump. Working in my driveway, I also misplaced one of the two pieces of 3/8 fuel line the pump came with so I had to use some 3 inch pieces of 5/16 gas line I already had to join the pump to the factory lines. Will either of these be a big issue? I know I should have a filter but circumstances prevented me from putting one on.

I also don't know if the mechanical pump was removed or if the electric is feeding into the mechanical. We have a snow storm right now so I have to wait until tomorrow to check. If it wasn't, it would be a major hassle to properly remove it, install block off plate, and route the electric pump directly to the fuel filter with freezing temps, a bad back, and no garage.

I'm worried that if it wasn't removed, the diaphragm could rupture and flood the crank case because of the 10-14psi the new pump has. The truck only needs to get me through plowing this winter(maybe 10-12 plows at 1-2 hours each) and then I'm putting the plow on a 89 5.8 truck for next winter.

If the mech pump must be removed, could I just unhook the fuel line going to it and run 5/16 gas line from the electric pump to the fuel filter? Or does the pump need to be physically removed and should I get 3/8 diesel line? I already have new 5/16 gas line here and it only needs to last until spring.

 

I don't see any reason why you couldn't unhook the fuel line to and from the mechanical pump and bypass it. I completely deleted the mechanical pump on my truck and installed a block off plate. I went with a Facet Duralift pump in place of the block pump. I would check the oil, make sure the level isn't way high because of diesel fuel being pumped into the engine. These trucks used 3/8" fuel line from the factory, I would try to stick with that size.

 

As said, no need to physically removed the mechanical from the block.

You _should_ use the 3/8 fittings, but if all you are doing is plowing a driveway you probably won't be starving for fuel.

Be forewarned that anything and everything made by Airtex is complete garbage.

Why downgrade from a diesel to a gasser?

 

Thanks guys. The mechanical pump is still hooked up but I checked the oil and no issues. So I'm getting 3/8 fuel line tonight to bypass the mech pump and installing it tomorrow. It will be -10 in the driveway but better safe than a crank case full of diesel when it's -30 to -40. I'm going to cut the steel line going into the filter, slip on a few inches of 3/8's line, double clamp, and run it down to the electric pump.

As far as the pump goes, I needed it running asap because we got a big dump of snow and the wife had to get to work. I didn't have time or the cash to buy something like the Facet. I'd have to wait for it to be shipped to the border, drive down to the border and get hammered on the exchange rate to get the Facet. I wasted money on the Mr. Gasket pump that lasted a few months. The Airtex through NAPA at least has a lifetime warranty. I only need it to get my through this winter anyway.

I'm switching to the 5.8 for a few reasons. I bought the 7.3 truck mainly for the Western 8.6 plow it had. For what I paid for the plow and truck, the 7.3 was basically free. I used it for 3 winters with no real issues other than the pump even at -50 so it owes me nothing. I got a nice 89 F250HD ex-cab long box automatic with a rebuilt 5.8 for $400CDN($300US). It has 130K km's(80K miles) and the C6 which is nice for plowing.

In Canada, a vehicle has to be safetied by a garage to be legally put on the road. The 5.8 only needed front brakes and an exhaust that I already had. With it legally on the road, I can use it to go to the dump etc. My 7.3 would need a bunch of money and body work to pass a safety inspection. Because it's not legal to be on the road, I have to fill the gas tanks with Jerry cans when it's -20 to -50 with two herniated disc's. Not fun. It's a ZF5 which is also a pain for my back and using the plow. 4LO doesn't engage, although I've never needed it with the power of the 7.3. I also don't know how much life is left in the clutch, it's probably a factory DM clutch, and it's started to grind going from 1st to reverse. Plus the rad looks like it's on it's last legs.

I have a 95 5.8 parts truck to upgrade the 89 to MAF. I have sitting around, a set of iron GT-40 heads off an Explorer, long tube headers, and an Edelbrock upper EFI intake. I just need a Professional Products lower intake, a cam and I should be able to make nice power from the 5.8 that meets or exceeds the 7.3's power levels. I won't get the mileage but it isn't a daily driver.

 

Holley Red is another pump option with the right psi, it should be very easy to find no matter where you are, and reliable to boot.

 

I'm in northern Canada and the only parts store in my city is pretty much NAPA. I had to use what they stock. At least it's lifetime warranty. Hopefully it makes it through the winter. It sucked changing that pump with a full tank of diesel in the driveway at -10. I really don't want to do it when it's -30 to -40.

 

Another reason for switching to the 5.8 is that the 7.3's oil pan has developed the typical rust hole. It's patched with a gas tank repair kit that will hopefully get me through this winter.

 

I bypassed the mechanical pump today. How long should I let the electric pump run to get the air in the new line out before starting? 10 seconds? Or is it ok to start it like I normally do without trying to get rid of the air?

 

When I set up the electric pump in my truck, I removed the Schrader valve from the fuel filter head and put a container in front of it to catch the fuel. I disconnected the glow plug relay and flipped the key and let the pump run until fuel started coming out. Shut the pump off, reinstall the Schrader valve, then kick the pump back on for 30 seconds or so; reconnect the glow plug relay and start the engine. That should get you going without putting major strain on the batteries and starter.

 

I am installing my Dura lift now, I was reading on here where somebody runs it in line with the stock pump and only used it as a primer if he had air in the line and had it set up to where it only came on when he was cranking the key.


He said he did it to save the electric pump so it would last and as a backup if the mechanical failed......


How common is it for the mechanical to fail and fill the block ? one of mine does that now from a bad injector pump....


I hope I am not hijacking the thread here...

 

My fliter is still full of fuel so I think it would start no problem. My concern is with the air in the new rubber line. Will the return line just eliminate the air as the engine runs off the fuel in the filter and the electric pump runs at 10-14 psi? It's about -15 here now and after working for 2 hours in my driveway today, I'd prefer to just run it as is if possible. It's about 9 feet of 3/8 line so I figure if I run the pump for 10 seconds as the GP's are heating up, that would eliminate the air. Am I wrong?

 

I am installing a prime pump bulb in line at the same time, I am tired of cooking starters because of a small issue of some sort that I was to lazy to get after...

 

if the return line from the filter head has not been blocked off, it will route the air back to the tank in 15 seconds or so, the pressure is a bit high, keep an eye out for leaks.

 

It all depends on how much air is in there, but really it should be fine and dandy.
If there's any doubt just turn the key on and wait as long as you'd like. Then cycle the plugs again and fire it up.
With the return line from the filter working as long as there is fuel feeding the filter then air will be forced out no matter what. This will keep going on once it's started too of course.

As for 10-14psi that would be a bit high for the IP, IF it were a closed system but since so much fuel exits the IP you'll never see that kind of pressure, so it should be fine. My Facet is rated at 9-11psi and I've never seen over 7, which only happens at idle with cold fuel. (I have a gauge hooked to the filter header)