Egr is from the intake, going into the carburetor spacer.

The valve hangs off the back

 

So how is it an EGR if it goes from the intake to carb. wouldn't that just be recirculating unburnt fumes. it would have to pull from the exhaust side of the engine to be an EGR??

 

The first time I replied, I said The exhaust in the floor of the intake plenum comes up through the 'box' on the drivers side of the intake spacer, goes to the back where the valve is, and is ducted back into the intake.

Look at the head flange of almost any Ford intake and you'll see the little rectangular exhaust port that runs under the plenum floor beneath the carburetor mounting boss.

If you have the carb off you really should replace the EGR plate to manifold seal because they tend to blow out anyhow.
Like was already said, you can remove the EGR valve and put a block off plate underneath if you just want to kill the system.
The Trans-Dapt is a ready made solution for those people who "just want to tear all this emission **** off" because they 'want their engine to look like an engine'
​​​​​​​
(whatever happened to that college kid with the exhaust manifolds??? )

Be prepared to recurve your distributor when you disable EGR, melted pistons and broken rings are expensive to repair.

 

The preferred term these days is GenderTransition-Dapt.

On my 351W, I had to reluctantly disable the EGR system while making some other mods to address carb heat soak issues. My low-buck method to get around the recurve issue is to run mid grade octane during the summer when the truck is working hard hauling our camper. The rest of the time, when lightly loaded, the existing distributor curve works fine.

 

I'm confused. Go here (Manifolds, EGR, Heat Valves, etc - ???Gary's Garagemahal) and scroll down to the illustration on 1980/87 8 Cyl. Item 9A589 is the EGR plate, and 9D448 is the EGR valve. The exhaust gas comes to that plate via passages in the head and then passages in the intake manifold. So, no external tubes.

As for the tube you are questioning, please post a pic.

Edit: Late to the party.

 

L&L are manufacturers of headers.
Their main business seems to be 460 swaps, but their headers are high quality and *fit* the applications they're listed for.

(sorry I didn't catch this below the wall of text the first time around)

 

The illustrations are good Gary.

You can clearly see the holes in the intake gasket and the baseplate (spacer) gasket that allow exhaust gas to make its way up to the egr valve.

Maybe he is talking about the thermactor crossover tube at the back of the heads.

 

Those illustrations where perfect. I got it figured out now in my head. we will see once I go to work on this truck this weekend. However I would like to drive the damn thing so I need to do the exhaust first. right now I'm driving "the pedo van" and id love to get back into the truck.

So I got it nearly figured out Trandapt 4539 Works perfect for giving me the room for the headers, and mounting the transmission right where it should. I will hopefully be installing it this week. and have it on the road again. after which point I can start playing around with the intake.

My idea right now is taking a 2181 Edelbrok intake with an 8053. and keep the EGR, or just block it off.

 

Well didn't get nearly as far as I wanted to. but hey I got the cross member in, trans is sitting in the very same location with the benefit of now having clearance for my new exhaust pipes.



Right now I'm deciding if I'm going to finish it this weekend and try tackling the intake setup or finish the exhaust and do the intake next weekend.

 

Oh bummer! looks like the coolant sender for the gauge is air charged! anyone come up with a solution to make this gauge still work after removing the air pump? Also what does the single terminal coolant sensor on the drivers side control?

 

Can yoi take a picture?
The coolant sender should be a single red/white wire in the drivers side of the intake manifold.

The A.I.R. pumps supply only the exhaust ports of the engine.

 

 

 

The yellow thing you picture is vacuum control valve that is inline to the distributor vacuum advance.
There should be a vacuum diagram on your radiator support.

The single terminial coolant *sender* with the white/red wire provides a ground path for the water temp gauge.

If there is a coolant *sensor* it has two wires, green and black.

 

the vacuum advance control valve is screwed into the intake? its going to go to run off the carb once I get my new intake put on. currently these questions coming up because I'm hooking everything up and figuring where every wire and hose go before I take the old setup off.

but what I dont understand is by just disconnecting the air pump my gauge stops working? Ill check wiring to make sure I didn't disconnect something unintentionally thats my only explanation for it not working. who knows maybe the sender went out just at the exact moment.