The rear elec locks on my 90 crew cab failed.
Took them apart and fount they operate by a little elec motor that spins a hollow ended shaft with three small holes with thiny ***** that fit is spiral groves on the acutator rod and thus force it up and down depending on direction of motor spin.

Called ford got high quote for part.

Went to salvage yard got a couple off a lincon for $6 each. Exactly same only acutator rod is different. So just poped of the clip removed the 3 ***** and swapped the acutator rods. Then replaced the ***** and clip ring and good to go.

Works great and much cheeper the buying them from ford.:7

 

 

>The rear elec locks on my 90 crew cab failed.
>Took them apart and fount they operate by a little elec
>motor that spins a hollow ended shaft with three small holes
>with thiny ***** that fit is spiral groves on the acutator
>rod and thus force it up and down depending on direction of
>motor spin.
>
>Called ford got high quote for part.
>
>Went to salvage yard got a couple off a lincon for $6 each.
>Exactly same only acutator rod is different. So just poped
>of the clip removed the 3 ***** and swapped the acutator
>rods. Then replaced the ***** and clip ring and good to go.
>
>Works great and much cheeper the buying them from ford.:7


I am trying to remove the electric actuator that is mounted inside
the door panel that operates the power door lock on my 95 F150. Do you have any suggestions on how to remove the unit for replacement/testing?

 

I don't know for sure about your truck but on earlier Ford vehicles that I have worked on, the door lock actuator mounts with a single screw that is easily accessible on the door jam below the door latch. I can't remember how the actuator attaches to the door latch.

 

Kioolt,
Yes the actuator is mounted on
the door jam below the door latch.
Instead of a screw there is a round
disk with what appears to be the
threaded end of bolt sticking through
the center of it. At first I thought
it was a tamper proof TORX screw. Inside
it is round along with the outside edge.
Hopefully it does not have to be unscrewed
from the inside. Any suggestions?

Thanks

 

I went and looked at my 93 F150XLT to see what you are talking about. Then I went and got my Helm's manual.

1. Remove door trim panel.
2. Remove actuator motor and swivel bracket assembly from the door by drilling out the retaining pop rivet.

Installation involves replacing drilled out pop rivet with a new one.

 

Thanks for the investigative research.
Why would Ford use a pop rivit and not
a screw like on the rest of the door
components? That is one large pop rivit.
I am going to give this some thought
before I start drilling into the side of
my door.

Thanks again,

Bob 1995 F150

 

I find it easier to grind the head off with a die grinder and then replace the rivet. It does take a special rivet. The rivit gun cost me $200 from Snappy but it will do all of the various rivits found in todays doors.

 

Thanks for the information on the
best way to remove the rivit. Sounds
like the cost of tools and supplies
will be about the same as having the
Ford dealer do the repair

 

It is easy to drill or grind.
Some have a metal disk with a snap ring holding it to a plastic bracker some have a solid metal bracket but all have the rivit.
Easy at home hard without power tools at pull u parts.
Once off easy to put one the the after market threaded blind nuts (like used for roof racks) into the old hole in the bracket then it is a screw on affair from then on.
A kit with about 20 of each size blind nut and nut plus allen wrenches for install is only about $20.
If it has the metal bracket easy to bend ears apart and slide out acutator without removing tha bracket.
Acutator just has pin on each side slid into rubber gromets in U shapped bracket so that is can swing for alingment.