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1999 7.3 Stuck Valve, Blown Rings, or Scored Sleeve...let's find out!

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  #16  
Old 11-27-2016, 08:01 AM
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Your going to pull the engine, tear it down, and do 1 hole? Your kidding right?
 
  #17  
Old 11-27-2016, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Osmond4X4
Your going to pull the engine, tear it down, and do 1 hole? Your kidding right?
There is no reason to sleeve all 8 if only one is bad. Sleeve the bad hole and get on with the rest of your life with the remaining $1400 in your pocket.
 
  #18  
Old 11-27-2016, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by clem1226
There is no reason to sleeve all 8 if only one is bad. Sleeve the bad hole and get on with the rest of your life with the remaining $1400 in your pocket.
Just saying from experience been a diesel mechanic my whole life done it many times (1 hole repair) on engines with removable cylinder liners, the other holes wont be far behind for another failure. Sometimes years, sometimes months. But its your time & money, not mine.
 
  #19  
Old 11-27-2016, 10:12 AM
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To sleeve one, or widen out all eight? That is the question. Certain to bring a lot of thoughts and discussion.
 
  #20  
Old 11-27-2016, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Osmond4X4
If your going to go that far with it why not bore and do all 8 and do it right?
$$$$ and no need to do them all unless there's wear on the cylinder wall.
 
  #21  
Old 11-27-2016, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Osmond4X4
Just saying from experience been a diesel mechanic my whole life done it many times (1 hole repair) on engines with removable cylinder liners, the other holes wont be far behind for another failure. Sometimes years, sometimes months. But its your time & money, not mine.
This is not a big rig engine with removable sleaves, this things have to get machined and thatsvwhere it gets $$$$, on a semi yes cause they are removable but sadly on our blocks there's no such thing. Like mentioned if the cylinders are within spec why put a sleave?
 
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Old 11-27-2016, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
This is not a big rig engine with removable sleaves, this things have to get machined and thatsvwhere it gets $$$$, on a semi yes cause they are removable but sadly on our blocks there's no such thing. Like mentioned if the cylinders are within spec why put a sleave?
I am well aware this is not a removable sleeve engine. I have rebuilt several of these and have one on the engine stand now.

The cylinder bore on these blocks from International is poor to begin with. Have a good machine shop rebore your block and get it so it is actually straight. You will not even recognize your truck once you get it up and running.

Also a good time to install forged rods if you dont have them.
 
  #23  
Old 11-27-2016, 05:03 PM
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To put the idea to rest, I will NOT be re-boring all the cylinders. I don't have that kinda money. I'se a poor fella or I'd be driving a newer truck!

The first step is a compression test on all the cylinders, performed by me this time instead of the dealership, which lost all of my paperwork.

Then I'll see if I can find where the leaks come from. I'm thinking about snagging this bore scope here for a look inside through the injector hole.
https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-Water...ct_top?ie=UTF8
 
  #24  
Old 11-27-2016, 05:32 PM
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That's cheap enough if it does the job, I'm sure you'll let us know. What is the diameter on those glow plug holes?
And would these help you look at your valves?
https://www.amazon.com/Supereyes-Bor...8NY9YFNM2NET1K
 
  #25  
Old 11-27-2016, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
That's cheap enough if it does the job, I'm sure you'll let us know. What is the diameter on those glow plug holes?
And would these help you look at your valves?
https://www.amazon.com/Supereyes-Bor...8NY9YFNM2NET1K
That's a good question. Do I need a scope to look at my valves? I thought they were the springy things running along the top by the injectors.
 
  #26  
Old 11-27-2016, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Glowplugger
That's a good question. Do I need a scope to look at my valves? I thought they were the springy things running along the top by the injectors.
They are...sort of. What you see up top is the valve stem, springs and retainers. The part of the valve that seals and goes bad is on the bottom of the head inside the cylinder. I am curious as to how much you can see of them with a scope. But from what I get from my Cessna mechanic he can see pretty good in there, I do not know what kind of equipment he has.
 
  #27  
Old 11-27-2016, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
They are...sort of. What you see up top is the valve stem, springs and retainers. The part of the valve that seals and goes bad is on the bottom of the head inside the cylinder. I am curious as to how much you can see of them with a scope. But from what I get from my Cessna mechanic he can see pretty good in there, I do not know what kind of equipment he has.

One of the reviewers said it won't work with the DBPower, but in the description of the bore scope it says it comes with a mirror so I might be OK.

With any luck I'll be able to see both.
 
  #28  
Old 11-28-2016, 07:03 AM
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Great to see some activity from you and I wish you were back on the site under different circumstances and not due to engine issues.

IIRC you had some issues with a torque wrench that was in the foot pound range when you were torquing the injectors. IF this is correct, the first thing I would do is make sure all of the all injector hold down bolts are torqued to spec with the inch pound range wrench. Then, run your compression check. If an injector is loose enough, it can and will affect compression and it should be rather noisy. If it has been loose since install, you might have gotten used to the noise. This will also eventually lead to a cracked cup on the affected cylinder. Oil usage would be more than average. Any soot in the degas bottle? Does the oil turn black really quickly after an oil change?

Just some food for thought...
 
  #29  
Old 11-28-2016, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jhl3
Great to see some activity from you and I wish you were back on the site under different circumstances and not due to engine issues.

IIRC you had some issues with a torque wrench that was in the foot pound range when you were torquing the injectors. IF this is correct, the first thing I would do is make sure all of the all injector hold down bolts are torqued to spec with the inch pound range wrench. Then, run your compression check. If an injector is loose enough, it can and will affect compression and it should be rather noisy. If it has been loose since install, you might have gotten used to the noise. This will also eventually lead to a cracked cup on the affected cylinder. Oil usage would be more than average. Any soot in the degas bottle? Does the oil turn black really quickly after an oil change?

Just some food for thought...
Good memory! I did finally get them all torqued down before I buttoned it back up. The problem one was on the other side of the motor. I almost never found that dang bolt haha. I should have ordered a ton of them.

I'll doublecheck to make sure all of them are still good. As far as I know the valves, injectors, glowplugs, and pistons are the only way air can escape in there.
 
  #30  
Old 11-29-2016, 02:11 PM
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One of the things folks often do before getting deep into the engine is run AE or somesuch to get a baseline on the engine. Does anyone know how to get AE working?

I've got Torque Pro and can get logs from that, but AE never seems to work for me. Or is Forscan the thing to use now? I'm so confused.
 


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