some crown vic IFS install questions
#1
some crown vic IFS install questions
I just bought an OT truck as next years project that on first checks looks to need an IFS wider than the jags I normally use. Crown vic looks like the logical choice since I will be running newer mustang wheels. Questions for those who have done it..
Is the IFS cross member set level front to back with the frame rails level ( assuming frame will be level front to back when the truck is complete)
I have read the PS rack steering stub has a triangle shape, is it a specific size or just known as Ford? I would want to convert to DD.
What do the engine mount pads look like? I would not be running the Ford engine but am curious if I can work of those pads like I do on the jags.
Can someone measure and tell me what the width is for the CV IFS from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface?
Thanks!
Is the IFS cross member set level front to back with the frame rails level ( assuming frame will be level front to back when the truck is complete)
I have read the PS rack steering stub has a triangle shape, is it a specific size or just known as Ford? I would want to convert to DD.
What do the engine mount pads look like? I would not be running the Ford engine but am curious if I can work of those pads like I do on the jags.
Can someone measure and tell me what the width is for the CV IFS from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface?
Thanks!
#2
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#4
Hopefully you can glean something from these photos. I believe that the crossmember is level but there are a few folks on the forum who have done this graft and should be able to answer your question more definitively. I stopped my research when I saw how wide the IFS was.
Here is an ad on CL that has some good photos of a CV IFS that has been removed from the car:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/5887212704.html
Here is an ad on CL that has some good photos of a CV IFS that has been removed from the car:
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/5887212704.html
#5
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#8
#9
Thank you for the steering shaft picture and the angle info, so if the cross member goes level with the upper rail then it does go level if the frame is level, same as the jag. I am planning on getting a donor car so I will double check just to be sure.
Wonder why the rack has a "Z" type connection joint like the jag used when soft mounted? The IFS is hard mounted so is there really that much movement? Anyone lose that joint and go with a traditional U joint?
Few small details to finish up on the F1 #2 build, but that will be in the spring. For now I am going to finish up my 41 caddy over the winter, finish the F1, and then start on the OT project. I like "different" stuff and this one is different, it is a 1957 International A100.
Plans are to do a frame off build, of course lower it, CV IFS, upgrade the rear suspension (not sure what rear axle yet to match the CV), fuel injection, LT1 350 with an automatic so my wife can drive it, late model mustang wheels, some interior upgrades, etc..basically same plan as the F1 builds.
Oh yeah and not touching the patina!
Should be a relatively fast build, hoping to do it in 6 months once I start. The truck was what I consider expensive for a project truck but is from Texas and is super solid other than the floors. With the higher starting point the total budget goal will be $7500.
Hope everyone had a happy thanksgiving, I am stuffed!
#10
Dave
The International looks great. I think it will be a great project. As fast as you work and the quality of your builds, should be a fun project.
What are you using to get that patina? Photos indicate that you must be creating that look. Clue us in.
Turkey day was great - ate too much as usual. Hope black Friday goes well for all.
Thanks
Dan
The International looks great. I think it will be a great project. As fast as you work and the quality of your builds, should be a fun project.
What are you using to get that patina? Photos indicate that you must be creating that look. Clue us in.
Turkey day was great - ate too much as usual. Hope black Friday goes well for all.
Thanks
Dan
#11
The Z on the column is to wrap it around the stuff in the engine bay in the Crown Vic. Yes, you can take it off but I don't know what others use to make the connection.
#13
Dave
The International looks great. I think it will be a great project. As fast as you work and the quality of your builds, should be a fun project.
What are you using to get that patina? Photos indicate that you must be creating that look. Clue us in.
Turkey day was great - ate too much as usual. Hope black Friday goes well for all.
Thanks
Dan
The International looks great. I think it will be a great project. As fast as you work and the quality of your builds, should be a fun project.
What are you using to get that patina? Photos indicate that you must be creating that look. Clue us in.
Turkey day was great - ate too much as usual. Hope black Friday goes well for all.
Thanks
Dan
No "fauxtina" on any of my cars, they are all natural. Most guys use CLR and a scotchbrite pad to remove the surface rust which leaves the natural patina. This one was cleaned up by the PO, but I assume something similar was used.
#14
Just some information, I found what I think is the source of the diagram showing the locating pins, and it was updated. It now shows the locating pins as being in line with the axle centerline, no 1/4" offset.
Also here is the PN for the borgeson u-joint to go from 3/4" DD to the Ford 3/4" V.
BRG-014955
I also made a deal on a donor 2006 CV police car, it is a roller less engine/trans and some other small stuff. I am going to see if I can use the rear axle as well since it is a 3:27 traction lock.
Also here is the PN for the borgeson u-joint to go from 3/4" DD to the Ford 3/4" V.
BRG-014955
I also made a deal on a donor 2006 CV police car, it is a roller less engine/trans and some other small stuff. I am going to see if I can use the rear axle as well since it is a 3:27 traction lock.
#15
The 67 3/8 is the distance between faces of the rotors