Nother brake question here:

Has anyone ever used a proportioning valve from a newer truck like a Bull Nose, in order to get around having to buy the expensive Dent Side style brake warning switch? Would this work?
I plane to leave my brakes stock, but my lines are all pretty crusty, and I'd like to replace them. Replacing the lines might make converting to a newer proportioning valve less of a pain, in my mind - that is, if the mod will work.

Anyone have any experience with this?

I could buy the new switch from Scott Drake, but if I can do it all more cheaply, I would certainly explore that option.


Thanks in advance...

 

C8AZ-2B264-A .. Brake Pressure Differential Valve Warning Lamp Switch / Obsolete ~ 51 available NOS

Last MSRP: $30.60 - Dealer net cost: $16.83.

1968/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline // Misc: 1968/69 FoMoCo Passenger Cars.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
D5AZ-2B264-A (replaced D0AZ-2B264-A) .. Brake Pressure Differential Valve Warning Lamp Switch / Available from Ford.

MSRP: $35.56 - Dealer net cost: $19.56.

1980/89 F100/350 & Bronco / 1980/2001 Econoline / 1990/96 F250/350 / 1997 F250 H/D & F350 // Misc: 1970/79 FoMoCo Passenger Cars / 1980 Lincoln Versailles.

 

Excellent! I didn't realize they were still available, or were used up to that recently. Where is the switch on the later trucks? I've looked at U-Pull-&-Pray, but never spotted one.

That $35 stings a little bit less, when you're handing it over a genuine Ford parts counter...

Thank you!

 

MSRP: $35.56 / autonationfordwhitebearlake.com price: $21.52 + shipping from MN

 

Thank you Bill. I will order up one when I get home after Thanksgiving.

Any tips on removing the threaded portion of the switch from the proportioning valve? Mine is broken off... I thought about gluing it back together, but who knows how long it's been broken? Probably too dirty/grimy for glue. Last time I was under there though, I saw that the metal push rod/pin was still in the threaded portion.

 

I believe this pic is correct for your application, but not 100% positive. No idea on your original question.

Switch body should be on the top of the pro valve. Good luck removing it with the pro valve still installed on the frame rail.

I would not try it, I would remove it and have it in a vice. There is a real old thread somewhere in this forum that is a take apart, clean and rebuild of the pro valve.

 

I recognize that first picture (probably because I took it )

The nylon switch has a 3/8"-24 thread, where it screws into the brake valve body. If the switch is broken off from the valve body upwards, you would just have to dig or drill out the remains --maybe get the pin out and drill the center for installing an ease out to remove the threaded portion.

If you have the cast iron Kelsey-Hayes valve, then you have a truck with a GVW of under 6,900#. If you have a brass Weatherhead valve, then you have a truck that's 6,900# GVW or greater.

To answer the OP's original question, I have a disc/drum brake valve for an '84-'86 F150/Bronco on my '69 F100. It was an OEM/NOS item still in the Ford logo box when I bought it off Ebay. I installed it when I converted to front disc brakes over two years ago.

However, I wouldn't change the entire valve out just because the brake warning switch was bad.



If your valve is like the cast iron one shown that had previously been posted, proportioning is only one of three functions inside the valve assembly. It has a metering (hold-off) valve that goes to the front brake circuit, a pressure differential valve between the front and rear brake circuits (the section where the pressure warning switch is sticking out) and it has a proportioning valve in the rear brake circuit of the valve assembly.



There are no complete kits to rebuild this particular brake valve assembly --no parts to rebuild the metering valve section of it.

This is a GM brake valve in the following link but, you can see that it's very similar to the one that was produced for Fords.

https://www.musclecarresearch.com/19...-valve-autopsy

A couple of months ago, I installed a similar cast iron brake valve from an '82 F150 in a '72 F100 I had converted to front discs and added a power brake booster with a 'modern' MC.

 

Thank you for the hand written diagram and the pic.

 

You're welcome. I think I labeled the ports backwards going to the left and right calipers but, it really doesn't matter which caliper those two ports goes to. They are at the same pressure potential.

In a stock application where you're replacing the valve, the factory lines would be bent/configured to go to specific ports but, in a custom application where you're making your own lines and not installing the valve in the same location as it was in from the donor vehicle --like on the '72 F100 I had worked on, it doesn't matter which caliper these two ports are plumbed to.

 

I took a flat blade screwdriver, and heated it with a torch, and then pushed it down through the threaded stub in the PV. I then let it cool down and set up, and simply unscrewed/unthreaded it on out!
I figured this might work, because I experimented with some torch-heated implements, and the other half of the switch, which had been plugged into the wiring harness...

 

Cool trick, now we all know it. Thanks for the pic.

 

Nice trick! Glad I found this. I'm in the same predicament with a switch broken off flush with the proportioning valve. Might be a stupid question, but can you replace the switch without opening up the brake system and introducing air or letting fluid come pouring out the hole?

 

Thanks.
Yes. Get the old threads out, and simply thread in the new switch, and connect the wire harness.

Oh, and I didn't get a new switch, I found one at the junk yard.

 

Got my new switch in the mail. So no type of sealer goes on the switch threads?

 

None that I'm aware of. There is not supposed to be any brake fluid in the switch's area of the proportioning valve.