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Per my understanding the 10W30 and synthetic do have good zinc level on past listings. I have used both at times for extreme cold weather without issue... except the full synthetic seems to leak a bit more.
A question about the zinc if I may. Guy behind the counter at the parts store tried telling me they removed the zinc from Rotella due to CA restrictions (I am in CA), though I am doubtful. Thoughts? Sorry if I am highjacking your thread OP, I was just curious if today's Rotella is the same as the stuff from the past.
When all the OEM manufacturers switched to roller cams the zinc was not needed. I believe I heard that zinc was contaminating the catalytic converters.
Here's a bit of useful info on this topic fromEnginBuilder Mag:
ZDDP Reductions
In recent years, the critical anti-wear additive ZDDP has been gradually reduced to help extend the life of the catalytic converter (phosphorus can contaminate the catalyst if the engine is using oil).
Back in the 1980s, motor oils typically contained around 1500 PPM (parts per million) of ZDDP. In the 1990s, that was reduced to 1200 PPM, then down to around 800 PPM in 2005.
That level of anti-wear additive is adequate for overhead cam engines and pushrod engines that have roller cams, but it has proved to be inadequate for engines with flat tappet cams, causing accelerated cam lobe and lifter wear – especially if stiffer valve springs are used.
The demand for longer drain intervals has also caused the amount of detergent to increase, which interferes with the anti-wear protection provided by ZDDP and compounds the problem.
To address this issue, numerous aftermarket suppliers now offer ZDDP crankcase additives that can be mixed with conventional or synthetic oil.
Several companies have also introduced “Hot Rod” or “Street Performance Oils” that contain higher levels of ZDDP to protect the cam and lifters (usually around 2000 PPM). Although some suppliers promote the fact that their racing or performance oil contains more ZDDP than competitive products, more isn’t necessarily better.
According to some oil experts, once you get beyond 2000 PPM of ZDDP, additional ZDDP doesn’t really provide much additional protection and can accelerate acidification and sludging.
If you want a lighter oil but are worried about zinc maybe try the T6 5w-40 rotella. This is a heavy duty diesel oil that I believe still has higher amounts of ZDDP. Something to do with it being a 40 weight.
A question about the zinc if I may. Guy behind the counter at the parts store tried telling me they removed the zinc from Rotella due to CA restrictions (I am in CA), though I am doubtful. Thoughts? Sorry if I am highjacking your thread OP, I was just curious if today's Rotella is the same as the stuff from the past.
He is corect. Rotella t has been re formulated. The good stuff is gone. Use to run it in my marine engines way back. Unfourtuanate. Now run joe Gibbs
My friend is a manager at a oil analyst company and says that Rotella does not have enough zinc in it anymore. I bought a case of comp cams 159 engine break in oil and add it in every oil change. My buddy ran my oil sample and said it has plenty of zinc in it now. I figure it's better to be safe than sorry.
When I replaced my cam (for the second time) I did a load of research. Rotella's website didn't say much at all about zinc. So I called them. They told me that the they have lowered the ZDDP levels to 800 PPM in their HD diesel oils due to the greater emission restrictions that our great government has enforced. So then I looked up the oil requirements for flat tapped cams. All I could find is that in 1981, ZDDP went from 1500 to 1200 PPM to help with catalytic converter performance. This is were I just stopped researching. I figured it was because after 1978, damn near everything had a cat on the exhaust and they were getting clogged up.
So I thought if I have to get the 1200PPM that is needed for my cam, then I might as well just put zinc additives in with every oil charge from now on. Just for peace of mind.
As for synthetic oils, never use it on a flat tappet cam unless you have just rebuilt the engine and you have used some very good gaskets. Synthetic oils have a much higher level of detergent to prevent and clean sludge build up. If your engine has been running conventional oil for a long while, that sludge is caked up around the gaskets of the oil pan or valve covers gaskets just enough. Once you change to synthetic oil, the detergents will clean up all the sludge build up around the gaskets and leak oil.
Now, please don't quote me on any of this. This is just what I have found on my research. We all know that the internet is never really correct, neither is a person on a phone. I'm just passing along what I have read and heard.
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