Before adding more stuff, I would get your current situation figured out.

With all the craziness you have going on, if it were me I would put it all back to stock and see what happens then start adding things back in to see where the craziness happens.

 

I did that already. Everything works fine. Its in the forscan program for anything w ACM. I tried everything w ACM and nadda. I have yet seen anyone that got it working per notes and threads

 

I get you are frustrated with this stuff, but in reality you took on a task that you don't know much about and now you are frustrated that it isn't going the way you thought it would.

Something with how your stuff was installed (by whoever installed it) and the forscan changes you are trying to make aren't working with each other.

However, from our PM's it appears that almost everything is working as it should though, just not how you want or think it should. In the specific case you don't want your chimes coming through your factory speakers but instead through the little instrument cluster speaker. The chimes are working how they should by coming through the speakers. You want them to be quieter but you are amping that signal and honestly used wrong speakers in that location. The only weird thing is that you aren't getting the lights on and truck off chime, but all chimes should be routed the same so I don't know why some are coming through and some aren't. Again I am leaning more to the install having issues and not the forscan changes. They did disconnect speakers, your sub doesn't work, etc. You gave them things that they aren't use to using and were probably making up a lot of stuff along the way.....

There are plenty of threads to getting this to work.....as I have already posted some...but hear are more via google
Line out via forscan

I have also told you multiple times to contact DanMc85 as he does this specific programming and was the one to discover it to double check the forscan codes.
Sync 3 APIM Programming by DanMc85

 

Thats fine. You are correct I dont feel its working correctly. Lights on chimes dont work, and I did reset everything to stock. The chimes that come over speakers are very loud with volume off. Supposedly this was a plug and play wire harness from OEM radio Solutions and no word from them. When its put back to stock all chimes go through cluster and lights on chime works. So if it was a wire problem would that be working that way?

 

I suspect you have some really weird wiring in your install. Let's forget about the hideaway for now.

You have a four channel amp. How do you plan to run 7 speakers (2 front coax in doors, 2 front tweeters in pillars, 2 rear coax in doors and a center)?

 

When you say you put everything back to stock, do you mean you put factory speakers back, or just reset FORscan parameters? Do you still have the distortion and the amp gains set to minimum?

 

The tweeters are piggy backed to front per factory. If put back to stock (forscan parameters) the gains have to be set to 0 and still gets distortion when you turn up not even 1/2 way. I dont have center yet was waiting to see how that could have been done? Sounded cool idea.
If I dont get back soon we have baseball and I will be on shift tommo. thx

 

Hey guys. I am toying around with changing the front and possibly rear door speakers. In doing some less than thorough research it seems that Infinity Kappa are highly regarded (duh). I find their high sensitivity palatable (95dB), as I intend to run them off of the factory system. What concerns me is their impedance is rated at 2.67 ohms.I have been out of the audio game for a while, but to my recollection most coaxial and component sets used to be rated at 4 ohms. Can the Sony system in my Platinum handle this? Any thing else I should be concerned about? Thanks in advance!

 

I'm not sure if the Sony is 2ohm stable, but I honestly wouldnt be worried about it. Even the cheapo chinese amps are now 2ohm stable in stereo. You'll probably see a little more volume, but it wont really sound that good until you add a new amp and get rid of that Sony DSP, imo. For a cheap, easy upgrade though I think thats not a bad route.

 

 

Thought so.

Problem #1: The new coax in the door are less efficient than the factory woofers. So when you turn up the volume to hear the woofers the coax tweeters will be playing normally but the factory tweeters are getting way too much power and are blasting (this is why they disconnected the factory tweeters). Plus you are running 4 tweeters up front so the sound is going to be bright. You can either rip it all out and install components in the front (woofer/tweeter/crossover) or you can get a second amp so you can adjust the gains to the factory tweeters separately from the coax in the doors. I would recommend a DSP if you go this direction.

Problem #2: There are two ways to feed the amp. The first way is to use the harness you have and set the ACM to output a line level using FORscan. You then connect to the RCA inputs on the amp. The second way is to use the Parrot FOR-11CK harness and connect the ACM to the speaker level inputs on the amp. Your amp has high impedance speaker level inputs, so it will likely trick the ACM into thinking all the speakers are hooked up and play the chimes correctly, except you have disconnected the center channel. There is a FORscan setting just for this - it tells the ACM to send the chimes without checking if the speakers are OK.

Right now you have the ACM hooked to the RCA (line level) inputs on the amp. When you set the FORscan parameters back to stock you are sending speaker level signals to line level inputs. That is why you have to set the gains to zero and get all that distortion. You can't mix the two ways of hooking up I've described above with the amp you have.

On the center channel. Doing this correctly is graduate level stuff. There are only a couple of ways to do it correctly (Ford didn't) and they are all expensive and complicated. That is why I recommend you disable the center in FORscan to steer the chime to the front/rear channels. If you get a DSP and another amp per the tweeter advise, you could keep the center channel. It probably won't be "correct" so it will sound better than factory, but not as good as having no center channel. More speakers is not better unless you properly upmix with a surround sound processor that has something like Dolby Pro Logic or Logic 7.

 

Sony has tweaked the output so it sounds best with the stock speakers. I think you would have better luck doing this with the non-Sony system as it only cuts out some of the bass (or so I've been told). Be aware the head unit (ACM) might interpret the lower impedance as a damaged speaker and send chimes to the instrument cluster instead of the speakers. I seem to recall some people have done this with positive results so I would search and install exactly what they did, just be aware that Sony vs. non-Sony is a big deal.

Also, the front tweeters get their signal from the front door speakers. There is a capacitor somewhere in that wire to limit frequencies sent to the tweeter. The simplest thing to do is mount the crossover by the Sony amp, use the factory wires to the doors and new wiring to the tweeters. Be sure to post your results (positive or negative).

 

on shift. May have to speak w someone on land line

 

Where is the best place to mount the crossovers for component speakers?

 

seems to be some disagreement on the best how to for component speakers up front. @Karl4Cat likes ditching the including crossovers and just letting the Sony system do its job (albeit sub optimally?) for simplicity sake....

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17017026