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So glad I live in Texas. Carb icing is an issue up there. I built some apartments on Colorado Springs in 2012 and ended up Mcgivering metal flex to my header. Temporary, as I knew I my situation wasn't perminant.
Good luck
My parts arrived. Notice the mounting tabs are different than the '77 parts I was experimenting with. They are tilted a little. The diaphragm depth (rod travel) looks to be the same. The length is much longer. The upper part of the can is plastic, but robust.
A quick test of the amount of vacuum to move the diaphragm seems to be about the same as the '77. Not a very exact method!
It looks like this Airtex 6V1017 vacuum motor will work.
Dimensions are included for people doing this to another snorkel.
Not sure yet on the placement of the hole, or how to bend the shaft exactly, so when I get that figured out, I'll post the results or advice.
Looks like 2-5/16, depending on how it is attached.
Red arrows point to tabs that hinge the door flap. Green arrow shows place where the Vacuum Motor rod will attach to the raised portion of the door. (EDIT: That spot will not work. A new hole is needed lower on the door, near the hinge.)
The motor will go on top of this, and the rod will reach down to the existing hot-air-door. Plus, will have to add some for the thickness, and stand-off distance. I may use a gasket or silicone between the two, just to reduce rusting.
I took apart the Wax (bulb/pellet) Thermactor rod, and learned some things. The hot/cold travel on mine was only 1/4-1/3", and so was not working as it should. After taking it apart, and cleaning it, it was not in as bad of shape as I first thought. I noticed it was not moving for the whole travel. A little WD-40, and a polish with a green scrubbie restored most of the motion. Pictures and disassembly is here:
I'm going to continue with this project, as I'm looking to make this work as well as possible. Again, I would not recommend everyone go to this much trouble. The vacuum motor modification is especially useful for those of you in areas of high humidity, ambient temperatures under 70 degrees, and who want the engine to warm up quickly. There are cool-engine drivability and engine wear improvements to be had. The following mods bring you up to '80s specs.
Vacuum motor was added to the snorkel. Here are some pics:
The rod needs to be positioned in the middle of the door arc. BUT, you have to find the sweet spot where rod-travel will be enough to cause the door to open all the way, and close all the way. Under the Vacuum Motor, you'll have to fish around for the right spot.
A hint with my parts, was to drill the hole in the door about an inch up from the lower edge. The spring shown is not needed, when you get it placed correctly.
I mounted the Vacuum Motor on some soft tubing spacers, to let it rock back and forth a little. That takes sideways loading off of the motor and the diaphragm inside.
Under the black housing, there is one soft silicone gasket, which encourages rocking, and covers all the darn holes I drilled.
Use a knock-out punch (electrician's) to make a hole for the rod.
On the underside, inside the Snorkel, I made some little bell-shaped pivots. This way, the small bolts are free to rock back and forth.
You can see the hole it takes in the top to place and adjust the Vacuum Motor. Other holes and the notch are unnecessary (much to my chagrin).
This shot shows the placement of the new rod, going through a new oblong hole in the warm air door below. It is about an inch up from the hinge.
In case they loosen, nuts are placed so they can't get into the air-filter area and do bad things.
She works!
Now, on to fitting the vacuum control pieces.
There is a purpose-designed spot at the bottom of the '72 housing, just like in the '77 housing, where the ACTS can mount. Two small holes, a gasket, and that was easy.
But, the TVS will need a bigger hole in the Air Cleaner Housing. It is just under one inch, a bit elliptical, plus a little off-set hole.
Hmmm. Will have to find a knock-out punch or something.
I got a used Knock-out Punch from Eb*y. Trade sizes are not the same as normal measurements, so be careful. Older ones may be better quality. Fantastic tool for sheet-metal work! It trimmed the hole like butter.
The 3/4" trade size punch makes a one-inch hole, just a little too large. A grinder would work, as not much metal is removed. A perfect hole is not round, it is a bit elliptical. Not a big deal.
You need an ACTS. There are two kinds, the one shown up a few posts, and another that is disk-shaped with a nipple. Either one works. They come in many values, and there is a suggestion the 105F value has some advantages.
( EDIT: The later style ACTS with blue or red on it has a restriction of 0.015 or 0.020". This is necessary to limit the vacuum leak created by 'breaking the vacuum'. If you use this old ACTS shown here, place a similar restriction bead or restricted-connector in the hose near the intake manifold, before all the other controls, and in the line just for the hot-air-flapper. At the end of this thread, about page two, you will see some other options with filtration and all-stock parts from later vehicles. )
The white TVS up above might be extra for you. They come in different values, color-coded white, red, green, etc. This device does some interesting things, and is desirable. If you live in a climate where it gets very cold, then get one. At $45 buck new, most applications for all-temperate use would skip it.
They are both directional in nature, and you should route your vacuum lines correctly.
The simplest way, if you are in a warm climate. Just use an ACTS as a Thermal Sensor, and add a line restriction of 0.020 or similar. Notice the direction of hook-up.
For very cold weather, add a TVS in the middle. Again, notice the direction of hook-up.
References:
I would refer you to Gary_Lewis' excellent website for the details. Basically, the TVS helps lock the hot-door in the heating position when it is below 50F, and provides good manners.
Hoses are loose here, but in place and working. The Sensor shown is the white TVS (CWVM).
There is a good spot available to drill and attach the metallic ACTS, here installed on the on the '72. In later years, they put these in stock. Hookup direction matters. The later version is better, as it has a restrictor built-in.
Apparently, there are steel air-cleaner housings that did come with these sensors from the factory. I don't know yet if they are exactly the same size, or the size of the smaller aluminum version. It sure looks like they were about to install them in 1972.
Keep in mind, the '72 assembly is required to match up with the '72 hot-air-stove.
Perhaps someone can identify which years used this exact heat stove part?
Wrapping things up: So, this has been something of a project on the information-gathering side. Knowing what we do now, it is pretty easy. I would first try to clean your brass-ended wax-pellet thermostat. It might work still. This is an enhancement, especially nice for cold weather, and recommended for city-style use.
Kudos to Gary_Lewis and JEFFFAFA for support.
Instruction Summary: You need to borrow a knock-out-punch or grinder, get at least the ACTS part, a little hose, and one vacuum-T. Drill a new hole-slot in the flapper-door, clip off the end of a vacuum-motor shaft. Use a 4-40 self-locking nut on the end of the shaft, and two little bolts, with self-locking nuts. Make a quarter-sized hole in the top of the snorkel. Assemble. Hook up hoses as shown in drawings above. A restrictor "pill" or jet is definitely needed in the vacuum hose nearest the manifold vacuum. Will experiment with sizes, but 0.020" restriction is about right.
Starting in 1970 in Cars Ford came out with the ACTS (air cleaner temperature sensor) part number D0ZZ9E607B. It came with the retainer clip and the gasket that sealed it to the air cleaner. That D0ZZ9E607B part number fit 98% of all Ford cars and trucks that came with a 9E607. Identified by a daub of blue paint on it. Sometimes it was mounted in the base of the air cleaner body and sometimes on the lid.
You were Right about restriction needed in hose!
I just ran it on a hot day with a load, and it created a serious vacuum leak without it. This would be the vacuum-bleed noted way up above. Previous tests were all on cold days, and at night. It wasn't noticeable then.
I'll experiment with sizes, starting with your suggestion.
( EDIT: The later style ACTS with blue or red on it has a restriction of 0.015 or 0.020". This is necessary to limit the vacuum leak created by 'breaking the vacuum' within the ACTS. If you use this old ACTS shown here, place a similar restriction bead or restricted-connector in the hose near the intake manifold, before all the other controls, and in the line just for the hot-air-flapper. At the end of this thread, you will see some other options with filtration and all-stock parts from later vehicles. )
KULTULZ,
I'm using one like that for my 2BBL already. It takes a long time to heat up in very cold temperatures, even with a new thermostat. In my opinion, all cold-weather users should keep these in the "cooling system" loop.
You were Right about restriction needed in hose!
I just ran it on a hot day with a load, and it created a serious vacuum leak without it. This would be the vacuum-bleed noted way up above. Previous tests were all on cold days, and at night. It wasn't noticeable then.
I'll experiment with sizes, starting with your suggestion.
One thing that just hit me was part number D7AZ12A225B. It was a vacuum restrictor. Looked just like a vacuum hose straight connector only had a orifice made inside it. Back in the emissions horror days Ford (and Ford tech with a problem child) used it in line to the vacuum advance. To slow down the vacuum signal so the vacuum advance didn't change the advance as quick.
D7AZ
12A225B: Haven Ford
Ok, that is interesting... Ford used the blue one for the advance delay. So that size must be in the ballpark. Possibly on the upper end? This is a vacuum leak, in effect, so I'm still thinking and looking.
After searching a bit on G0*gle, I found little on the topic. Lots of info about similar restrictors for turbo use, and other purposes. I see there are inexpensive adjustable parts for just a few bucks. Those may be easier to plug, however. One suggests a super-fine filter at 5 microns ($$$). I'm not sure that is the way to go. A small hole in a bit of brass brazing rod would to the trick.
Grabbing unrelated part numbers from NumberDummy, in another thread:
Vacuum Restrictors used for other purposes:
D6DZ12A225B - Blue, Red (Edit: answer in image below, 0.015, 0.020" red or blue color codes in several suitable devices.)
E1TZ12A225A - Orange (0.024")
Dorman Help! 47311 Restrictor 3/16 barbs X 0.0185"
( EDIT: This is on the UPPER end of the sensitivity range, and would react MORE quickly.)
I guess I'd want a hole that is the smallest possible. My thinking is that the smallest hole that will still slowly pass a vacuum would be the best. If anyone has precision drill-bits to test the restriction sizes on the Ford parts, that would be great. Given a sized-hole (like 0.0185", too big) parts might be selected easily.
04-22-2017, 10:51 AM
Warm-air Snorkel Finished!
