Updates
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow, OK
[QUOTE=Doc;16707684]I think he was trying to demonstrate how a change like that can snowball into other required modifications with these trucks.[QUOTE=Doc;16707684]
Well that's what i thought at first then he said you would want power steering of course!--thought that was a recommendation. that wasn't really on my list...
Well that's what i thought at first then he said you would want power steering of course!--thought that was a recommendation. that wasn't really on my list...
More Turbo
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 544
Likes: 8
From: BC, Canada
I can only guess what would be changed that will make the carrier unusable.
...Terry
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,995
Likes: 422
From: u-rah-rah Wisconsin
A fairly recent thread. I'm sure a clever fellow might solve the problem, just haven't seen a discussion on FTE.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-conflict.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-conflict.html
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,965
Likes: 261
From: East KY
I'm sure Fortyniner will reply when he gets a chance, but I agree with him on this. And, yes, the reason is because the radials tend to be fatter and usually taller, and you have to put extensions on the hanger hardware. Also, I found that my radial hit my exhaust pipe. It's very difficult to find a radial that is the same exact size of a factory bias ply without spending big bucks for it in my experience, especially if you buy a LT truck tire.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hi 49 F1,
Hmmm... I'd drive the truck with your dad a bit & it will tell you what needs to be done....
When we got our '50 I drove it home approx. 8 miles .... not the smartest thing I've ever done... Here's our list:
Safety:
o Replace the Brake Lines - Our brake pedal went to the floor at a light & the truck was still moving ...
The brake lines are made of steel & they rust out from the inside...trust me you should inspect them &
then replace them if they are original.
o Replace the Single Chamber Master Cylinder -
Go with a dual chamber modern master cylinder so all your brakes don't go out at once.
o Install Seat Belts - We installed modern (3) point shoulder harness
seat belts. You'll be glad you did. It's a little more involved as you have to weld in something for the
shoulder harness to bolt to.
o Seat Bolts - Look under your seat at the bolts & metal holding your seat to the floor. We beefed up the bolts &
put in a couple of metal plates under the seat. (Personally I'd redo the Seat while you are at.... the original seats need padding).
o Mirrors - There are huge blind spots on these old trucks with the small back windows. We installed a modern
concave 5 inch rear view mirror & 2 better external mirrors.
o Move the 16 gallon In Cab Gas Tank - You'll get lot's of opinions but we voted to get that gas out of the cab
& we installed an under bed 22 gallon Mustang tank (40% more cruising range is nice). Our in cab tank smelled
& I didn't like hearing 16 gallons of fuel sloshing around next to me).
Improving the Quality of the "Ride":
o Suspension - Our '50 drove like a "drunken monkey" (Scary) - wandered all over the road. We installed a Mustang II style
independent front suspension. (Personally I'd rebuild the stock front end & install Toyota Power Steering if I had to do it again).
Replacing the front end with an independent front suspension is a ton of work & very expensive ($5K at least)
o Upgrade Rear Axle - We went to a salvage place & bought a Ford 8.8
off of an Explorer with 3.73 gearing & disc brakes ($225). This allows us to cruise at highway speeds &
it wasn't too involved took maybe 2 weekends.
o Steering - Our steering was worn out. We replaced our column with an Ididit & a vintage looking Ford steering
wheel. A nice modern steering set up is worth it.
o Windshield Wipers - Stock our truck only had a driver's side wiper that ran off of vacuum. We installed an after
market electric wiper set up - nice but pricey at $300.
351 Windsor with Edelbrock top end, Beefed up AOD, A/C, Radio, 12 volt conversion, ....
Drive your nice old truck & see what it tells you to do. Try to keep the projects to smaller bite size one or two weekend ones.
Fight the urge to tear your truck down to the frame. They are much easier to take apart than to put back together....
Good luck over there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Hmmm... I'd drive the truck with your dad a bit & it will tell you what needs to be done....
When we got our '50 I drove it home approx. 8 miles .... not the smartest thing I've ever done... Here's our list:
Safety:
o Replace the Brake Lines - Our brake pedal went to the floor at a light & the truck was still moving ...
The brake lines are made of steel & they rust out from the inside...trust me you should inspect them &
then replace them if they are original.
o Replace the Single Chamber Master Cylinder -
Go with a dual chamber modern master cylinder so all your brakes don't go out at once.
o Install Seat Belts - We installed modern (3) point shoulder harness
seat belts. You'll be glad you did. It's a little more involved as you have to weld in something for the
shoulder harness to bolt to.
o Seat Bolts - Look under your seat at the bolts & metal holding your seat to the floor. We beefed up the bolts &
put in a couple of metal plates under the seat. (Personally I'd redo the Seat while you are at.... the original seats need padding).
o Mirrors - There are huge blind spots on these old trucks with the small back windows. We installed a modern
concave 5 inch rear view mirror & 2 better external mirrors.
o Move the 16 gallon In Cab Gas Tank - You'll get lot's of opinions but we voted to get that gas out of the cab
& we installed an under bed 22 gallon Mustang tank (40% more cruising range is nice). Our in cab tank smelled
& I didn't like hearing 16 gallons of fuel sloshing around next to me).
Improving the Quality of the "Ride":
o Suspension - Our '50 drove like a "drunken monkey" (Scary) - wandered all over the road. We installed a Mustang II style
independent front suspension. (Personally I'd rebuild the stock front end & install Toyota Power Steering if I had to do it again).
Replacing the front end with an independent front suspension is a ton of work & very expensive ($5K at least)
o Upgrade Rear Axle - We went to a salvage place & bought a Ford 8.8
off of an Explorer with 3.73 gearing & disc brakes ($225). This allows us to cruise at highway speeds &
it wasn't too involved took maybe 2 weekends.
o Steering - Our steering was worn out. We replaced our column with an Ididit & a vintage looking Ford steering
wheel. A nice modern steering set up is worth it.
o Windshield Wipers - Stock our truck only had a driver's side wiper that ran off of vacuum. We installed an after
market electric wiper set up - nice but pricey at $300.
351 Windsor with Edelbrock top end, Beefed up AOD, A/C, Radio, 12 volt conversion, ....
Drive your nice old truck & see what it tells you to do. Try to keep the projects to smaller bite size one or two weekend ones.
Fight the urge to tear your truck down to the frame. They are much easier to take apart than to put back together....
Good luck over there.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,685
Likes: 81
From: Northville, MI
Gentlemen:
My father and I just acquired a '49 F-1 95% original. It has been his dream for most of my life. He would like to have this as more of a daily driver than a show queen. It has the original flathead V8, 3 speed tranny, and 3.90:1 rear end; factory leaf springs w/ the factory HD leaf pack in the rear; and drum brakes front and rear.
I am a strong enough mechanic to make upgrades but not 100% what to do. Planning on a front disk conversion w/ master cylinder. Modify leaves for lower, better ride. Replace bias ply tires with radials. And a rear end swap for better speed.
Advice needed on above mentioned or anything else. Dad doesn't necessarily want a resto-mod; try to keep as original as possible w/o compromising drivability/safety.
My father and I just acquired a '49 F-1 95% original. It has been his dream for most of my life. He would like to have this as more of a daily driver than a show queen. It has the original flathead V8, 3 speed tranny, and 3.90:1 rear end; factory leaf springs w/ the factory HD leaf pack in the rear; and drum brakes front and rear.
I am a strong enough mechanic to make upgrades but not 100% what to do. Planning on a front disk conversion w/ master cylinder. Modify leaves for lower, better ride. Replace bias ply tires with radials. And a rear end swap for better speed.
Advice needed on above mentioned or anything else. Dad doesn't necessarily want a resto-mod; try to keep as original as possible w/o compromising drivability/safety.
As far as a front disc brake brake conversion goes you also should include changing over the master cylinder to a much safer dual chamber version. Kits are available at Speedway Motors and CPP.
If you have any questions just post them. We also like pictures, lots of them.
Here is my disc brake conversion
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
HkyswiM
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
21
Feb 17, 2021 12:11 PM
Carefree T
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
15
May 31, 2017 09:50 AM
CommanderCrzy
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
May 19, 2015 03:34 PM
51FordTN
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
Nov 5, 2013 08:48 AM
