Family 56 rebuild thread.
#107
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: northwestern Ontario
Posts: 263,022
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#109
Are we looking at the actual welding side or the opposite, kind of looks like the underside. Judging by your weld picture how clean the surrounding area is, I would say you are using the argon-co mix gas, are your gauges working and have proper flow. CO gas leaves a brown film and more splatter, flux core wire leave a lot more splatter and a blacker weld. I prefer the 75% argon-25% co mix really makes a difference in the weld. Find the first plug from the main panel and plug in there, and work there for trial welds. It looks to me like you have more than enough heat by the blueing on the right side, that heat coloration normally stays with in a 1/2 inch of the weld when all is right. I think you need to work on the wire speed. Set the heat range at the specified sheet metal setting and while you weld have someone turn the wire speed slowly up until you get the sound of frying bacon. If that heat range does not work go up one setting and repeat. After going thru all settings and still no success than you are going to have to figure it is either your power source or the actual welder. The other issue I am hearing is the part about not seeing the weld, seeing the weld is crucial as to being able to control the weld puddle which is created by heat, wire speed and your hand. Need to resolve this before any viable conclusion can be made on the unit. When I am running a good bead I can actually see the wire melting into the puddle
#111
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: northwestern Ontario
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#113
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: northwestern Ontario
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#115
John you might have figured this out.BJ if you are using gas (co or Argon co mix) your polarity settings should be. positive to work gun. negative to ground clamp, using flux core wire it is negative to gun positive to ground clamp. Your installation manual should explain this . Really hope this is it because it will be an easy fix for ya
#116
Ebear, I wire wheel and then do a light grind on the area. But it’s impossible to get to the back of the patches in some cases.
Gerrymoe, unfortunately I’m pretty sure mine is set up positive to the gun negative to the ground. I’m taking a short vacation in Florida this week so it’ll be next week before I can check.
Gerrymoe, unfortunately I’m pretty sure mine is set up positive to the gun negative to the ground. I’m taking a short vacation in Florida this week so it’ll be next week before I can check.
#119
Still no Cab for the frame. But there is some progress. I ordered a complete bed (less fenders) and it has been delivered. Yesterday it almost got to 70°F but I had a long list of Honey Dews so no Truck time. But today. Ever since I got the frame back from the exhaust shop the engine was running rough. Since everything is new (just rebuilt the engine two years ago) I decided to start from scratch and retune it. Started by pulling all the plugs and readjusting the valves, nothing big but I did adjust a few. Just an FYI you can’t remove #8 spark plug without removing one of the power steering hoses off of the steering gear! Then I checked the plugs and gaps. Plugs were all carboned slightly (probably due to not being run on the road). Checked gaps a couple were a little too much so reset them all. Then I rechecked wires #6 & #7 were reversed. Corrected that issue and all is well. Purring like a kitten now. If I only had a cab.
#120
Glad you had a 70 degree day. Looked like on radar you might have got some rain too. We go slammed with a blizzard today. About 4" of snow with 40-50 mph winds Could have been worse! 12" - 15" in central NE. Anyway, glad you figured out the rough idle. I watched your Dec. 11th post and the engine sounds great. Any idea on your cab? Hope to get mine back within a couple months and then chug forward. The race is on