63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Las Vegas, NV
63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
I just found out my 292 V8 needs to be rebuilt, so I'm thinking of replacing it with a bigger engine instead. Any ideas as to which engine would fit well in my '63 unibody?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Visalia, CA
63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
Anything will fit, small block 289-351, big block FE 352-428 or the 385series 429-460. I'm currently puting a 460 into a 64 F-100. Are you after good gas mileage or hp?
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Junior User
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From: Las Vegas, NV
63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
I'm looking for something that will bolt right in and won't need 300 different adapters and crossmembers to get it to work. I did some searches of the forum and found a post that said a 390 is a perfect fit. I'm wondering, though, whether it would need anything to link with my transmission which is also original.
BTW, gas mileage means nothing to me!
BTW, gas mileage means nothing to me!
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: San Diego CA
63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
rebman unfortunately the only engine that is a direct bolt in replacement would be a Y block. If you want to go with something newer you'll have to get a crossmember kit and plan on a matching tranny. Sorry to rain on your parade but thats how it goes. If it ain't blowed up keep driving it and shop around for an engine/tranny combo crossmembers for motor and tranny will be available and fairly easy to install. You'll probably have to change the length of your drive shaft too. Good luck, Rich.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
Use another Y block. It is a direct bolt in. It will give you more than enough performance. A nicely built Y-block can smoke a 390. The parts really are not very expensive. There are several different cams available (you can always do a custom grind too), all kinds of transmission adapters, an aluminum intake manifold, headers (from log style to 4 into one to tri-Y's), aluminum timing covers, aluminum valley covers, aluminum valve covers. Aluminum water pumps, and aluminum heads are about to be on the market. MSD has a distributor designed specificaly for the Y-Block. I hope to produce some aftermarket items soon - whenever I feel comfortable investing the money. And besides, with a Y-block you will not have what everyone else has. They are very reliable in stock form and they can be built to go very fast. There are a few cars that do the 1/4mile in the 9's. The heads, even in stock form, flow very well. Usually better than most small block heads and air flow is a predictor of horsepower. They can be ported for excellent flow figures. The long stroke provides a lot of torque. They have a unique sound. And, I could go on and on. I think that the Y block is the best option for your truck.
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Junior User
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From: Las Vegas, NV
63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
Thanks for the info, Charlie. I never really thought of my y block like that. (I'm not exactly the most mechanically minded person in the world, though.) Since I have your ear, how can I convert my F250 to more of a normal daily driver? Right now, it's set up to haul thousands of pounds (and I HAVE done that) and first gear is basically useless. I'd rather have it geared to get off the starting block but also get up to 70mph on the freeway. Does that mean I have to replace the transmission and mess with the rear end, too? Which y block would you suggest? I'm new to all of this so any advice is appreciated!
Thanks again...
Thanks again...
Last edited by rebman; Aug 25, 2003 at 04:48 PM.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
You can keep your tranny if you leave the engine close to stock. If you do many modifications you may want to consider a C4 or C6 auto or T5 or a tremec 3550/TKO manual. I have also read about modifications that can be done to early Ford-o-matics but I don't know much about automatic transmissions. I have also heard good things about the t85 3spds. You may want to use a 3.50 - 3.89 rear gear for cruising. I have a 3.92 and 60mph is about 3000rpm. A 292 would be the best engine. Parts are more readily available than the 312 and therefore cheaper. You can even make a 292 into a 312 because they are the same blocks with a few minor changes in machining. Check out this web site: www.ford-y-block.com. There is a lot of good info on this site.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Las Vegas, NV
63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
When you say "close to stock" what exactly do you mean? If I rebuild the 292 and put something like a 3 x 2 setup on it, a performance cam, etc. is that too much for my transmission to withstand?
Senior User
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From: Visalia, CA
63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
The T-98 4spd will hold up to anything. The weak link will be your 28 spline rearend, if your truck is a F-100. If the truck is a F-250 it will have the Dana 60 rear end which is good for 600hp.
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Junior User
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From: Las Vegas, NV
63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
It's an F250 and it has a Spicer 60 rear end. (Are Spicer and Dana the same thing??)
How easy would it be to change the ratio on my current rear end to something more suited to "normal" driving, like something in the 3.5 to 3.9 range? At over 50mph, the RPM of the engine must be over 3000 right now which means any sort of freeway driving is ridiculous. Is it simply changing out the gearing?
How easy would it be to change the ratio on my current rear end to something more suited to "normal" driving, like something in the 3.5 to 3.9 range? At over 50mph, the RPM of the engine must be over 3000 right now which means any sort of freeway driving is ridiculous. Is it simply changing out the gearing?
Cargo Master
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63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
I guess I should have said a mild engine. The 3-2 and a mild cam will be fine with the stock drivetrain. You may want to go throught everything to make sure that nothing is worn excessively. You could use a T5 to get an overdrive gear and then you can use a higher rear gear for better performance down low. If you want performance the 1 4bbl manifold, ECZ-9425-B, is the best way to go. There is a blue thunder manifold but it is probably too much for a mild street engine. For nostalgia, however, the 3-2 is just right. If you use a real big cam you will want to consider upgrading your drivetrain but it sounds like this engine will be used primarily for cruising. I plan to use a Tremec TKO, 31 spline Strange possi assembly, and a chrome-moly drive shaft with 1350 series yokes but my engine will be 450-500hp with nitrous.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Visalia, CA
63 Unibody Needs a New Engine
Yes, you can buy a Spicer/Dana ring and pinon set in a lower number like 3.54 to 1 for $150 new. I use a 3.54 dana 60 in my 76 f-250 xlt ranger supercab weighing in at 5700lbs. with a 365hp GT-390 puttin out 450lbs.of torque at 3700 rpm with 33x12.50x16.5 rear tires. Again your tranny and rear will handle anything that the Y-block will put out!!I have built many 31 spline 9" rear ends and you would need to put $400 to $500 in it to equal the strenght of a dana 60. I run a stock dana 60 in my 50 ford 2 door sedan with a 550 hp 460 engine.