New Intake installed. Start up?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Bancroft, MI
New Intake installed. Start up?
Hey guys, I just installed a new performer 390 on my truck and some headers and other misc stuff. Pushrods all went back in place and gaskets look good etc..
Is there anything I need to make certain I do before attempting to start it up?
My guess is it will crank a bit before fuel gets to the carb. should I leave the valve covers off to watch the rocker arms and valve operation?
This is my first intake replacement ever so I just dont want to miss something important and screw this up.
Thanks
Is there anything I need to make certain I do before attempting to start it up?
My guess is it will crank a bit before fuel gets to the carb. should I leave the valve covers off to watch the rocker arms and valve operation?
This is my first intake replacement ever so I just dont want to miss something important and screw this up.
Thanks
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,022
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From: A dirty little town in OR
I like to use a remote starter if I'm starting up a freshly cracked-open engine unless I have a savvy bud to watch things up front. If you got the pushrods back in the right place and the distributor put back in correctly (you did mark it, right?) the only issue you should have is getting the new carb to run and leaks, vacuum and coolant. You do NOT want to dump radiator juice into your oil...baaad juju and a complete do-over.
Prime the carb so you don't have to crank it so much. I've never started an engine w the valve covers off. Primed a new build or oil pump yes, but never let one run under it's own power...seems messy.
Run a pre-flight checklist in your head and light it up! If something is wonky (sounds like you did it right) there will be bad noises to warn you...shut it off and go from there.
Prime the carb so you don't have to crank it so much. I've never started an engine w the valve covers off. Primed a new build or oil pump yes, but never let one run under it's own power...seems messy.
Run a pre-flight checklist in your head and light it up! If something is wonky (sounds like you did it right) there will be bad noises to warn you...shut it off and go from there.
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Senior User
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From: Bancroft, MI
So what I did was take photos of the distributor alignment before I took it out then made sure it was back in and aligned like it was. Should be ok? Just curious if it will cause any damage if it was a tooth off? Thanks for the info too.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Middle Tn.
It won't run worth a dam but one tooth shouldn't destroy anything.
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From: Bancroft, MI
Thanks Mike. I have some battery/Ground connection issues but was able to get it started once today. The carb needs adjusting and when it died all I got was a "click" at the solenoid. So Ill address those issues and try again tomorrow. Is a ground from the battery to the block enough or should I also run a ground from the block to the frame?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Middle Tn.
Thanks Mike. I have some battery/Ground connection issues but was able to get it started once today. The carb needs adjusting and when it died all I got was a "click" at the solenoid. So Ill address those issues and try again tomorrow. Is a ground from the battery to the block enough or should I also run a ground from the block to the frame?
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From: Bancroft, MI
Got the ground issues resolved. She fired up and ran OK. The carb Ive had for 15 years needed some attention..Apparently the RTV seal in the back was not adequate either.eaked like nobody's business. Decided to take it apart and redo the manifold seals front and rear. I went and got a rebuild kit for the Performer 1406 I have. Rebuilt it last night and will try and get it back together and fire it up this morning before work.
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Senior User
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From: Bancroft, MI
Turns out the 1406 Ive had is a POS. In an effort to diagnose the issue I bought a carb adapter and installed my 2bbl 2150. Runs beautifully again. Fixed the oil leak and have set the initial timing at about 18*. Ive heard anywhere between 10-18 is good. Gotta secure the clip and get it over to the muffler shop to tie in the rest of the dual exhaust in the next week and Im back on the road. Thanks for your help guys.
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Senior User
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From: Bancroft, MI
Thanks for the info. Does it make a difference that I'm at about 4500ft in elevation? Also do I set the initial timing with the vacuum line hooked up or not?
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Middle Tn.
No vacuum setting initial. 4500 won't affect the timing but could easily affect the jetting.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: tujunga, calif
I never worry about initial timing. I always set it by total mechanical advance and were ever initial ends up after that is were it stays. Starting at 18° will probably have you with too much total, I try to limit the total to about 36°.
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Senior User
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From: Bancroft, MI
Thanks guys. I set it to 10* then to about 14*-15* Seems to run much stronger now. I'm not sure how to figure out the whole total mechanical advance but will look into it. Its back on the road and running well. I'm a happy camper.
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From: Bancroft, MI
Going on my 3rd attempt to get a seal on the front and rear of the intake. The first time the rear leaked, the second time the front leaked....lets hope the 3rd times a charm. big fat beads this time!