cruise stumped.
cruise stumped.
Okay.... not a mech but not clueless.
cruise is gone.
-had the recall done. BPS new, along with fuse.
-static test successful. No 5 blinks to indicate servo probs. single blink after every hit of each button. throttle also tests and is successful.
-replaced all bulbs that were burnt out.
Now... whilst driving at appropriate amount of speed, I hit "on", then "set", cruise indicator light comes on. But no sustaining of speed. If I press the break, light goes out...... Same scenario, but press "off" (instead of pressing break) light goes out. (all the while there is no speed sustained.)
I'm at my end of trying not to bring it to the "crooks" (dealer) to hook up to the module/servo (whatever it's called)) and charge me $90 an hour to ultimately get nothing resolved, and just have them say the mod/servo is the problem at $390 to replace. And ultimately it still not work. (I've been here before and am tired of getting ripped off)
Everything seems to be working as it should 'cept the maintaining of speed. There is one thing I'd like some help with checking (seeing as most threads online accept the recall as a fix. It's not for me) I'd like to bypass the Brake Pedal Position switch (BPP). can i do that and how? Keep in mind that even before the BPS (Break Pressure Switch[recall]) was installed, pressing the break would turn off the cruise indicator light. So I have my doubts as to weather the BPP switch is the culprit. But nonetheless, I'm all ears. Now also assuming I'm correct about it not being the BPP switch, is there any other idea's anyone may have.
Much appreciation to all those out here who help. I've been able to get lots done just by reading others probs, and it is so much appreciated! you really have no idea how thankful I am.
Thanks all in advance. You all do a great service to hard working and willing to learn people. And you save us a lot of grief and dollars. I wish I could
cruise is gone.
-had the recall done. BPS new, along with fuse.
-static test successful. No 5 blinks to indicate servo probs. single blink after every hit of each button. throttle also tests and is successful.
-replaced all bulbs that were burnt out.
Now... whilst driving at appropriate amount of speed, I hit "on", then "set", cruise indicator light comes on. But no sustaining of speed. If I press the break, light goes out...... Same scenario, but press "off" (instead of pressing break) light goes out. (all the while there is no speed sustained.)
I'm at my end of trying not to bring it to the "crooks" (dealer) to hook up to the module/servo (whatever it's called)) and charge me $90 an hour to ultimately get nothing resolved, and just have them say the mod/servo is the problem at $390 to replace. And ultimately it still not work. (I've been here before and am tired of getting ripped off)
Everything seems to be working as it should 'cept the maintaining of speed. There is one thing I'd like some help with checking (seeing as most threads online accept the recall as a fix. It's not for me) I'd like to bypass the Brake Pedal Position switch (BPP). can i do that and how? Keep in mind that even before the BPS (Break Pressure Switch[recall]) was installed, pressing the break would turn off the cruise indicator light. So I have my doubts as to weather the BPP switch is the culprit. But nonetheless, I'm all ears. Now also assuming I'm correct about it not being the BPP switch, is there any other idea's anyone may have.
Much appreciation to all those out here who help. I've been able to get lots done just by reading others probs, and it is so much appreciated! you really have no idea how thankful I am.
Thanks all in advance. You all do a great service to hard working and willing to learn people. And you save us a lot of grief and dollars. I wish I could
Didn't catch what year your truck is, but I think I would go to your local pick and pull and buy a cruise module. It doesn't have to be off of a superduty. I pulled mine off of a similar year f-150. Just write down the wire colors going into the cruise module, and match it up to the donor. I wouldn't be surprised if other models use the same modules as well, along with the same colored wiring. Generally, a cruise module failure is fairly rare that I've ever seen, but it's possible. I believe if you unplug both brake switches (master cylinder and pedal), it will isolate that part of it. Hope it helps...
Frank
Frank
I've checked the local pick-a-part businesses, no luck, at least with regards to super duty. I'll check for f150 but not without first checking online for compatibility. I'm not going to buy even a second hand part without first knowing that I need it..... btw, I'm not in even a minor metropolitan area, so the pick'ins are pretty slim, we're talking f-series trucks, so most are still on the road. Truck is: 2002, f250, Gasoline, 5.4l, XLT, 2WD.
You may have done this already, but make sure the cruise cable is attached to the throttle body. I'd also pull on the cable, and make sure it doesn't pull out of the cruise module. Could of broke on the inside. The ones I've got more experience with, have a cloth ribbon inside, with a plastic piece attached on the end that captures the cable for the throttle body. Could be detached/broke from that, once again internally. It may not give you a code (or access)for that, if it can't detect that part of it. Although you would think it would sense the motor spooling up too long in that case...
Mine's an 03, and the donor came out of a 97 or 98. Just remember when you check compatibility, that ANY minor physical change is going to be a different part number, even though it functions the same internally. So you could have 2 exact units other than say the cable sheath is 1/2" longer and they would e different part numbers. I tried that too while on the quest for cruise control in non-cruise equipped truck, and I didn't have any luck with part number look up.
Not just trying to spend your money, just throwing out there the little I know of....
Frank
Mine's an 03, and the donor came out of a 97 or 98. Just remember when you check compatibility, that ANY minor physical change is going to be a different part number, even though it functions the same internally. So you could have 2 exact units other than say the cable sheath is 1/2" longer and they would e different part numbers. I tried that too while on the quest for cruise control in non-cruise equipped truck, and I didn't have any luck with part number look up.
Not just trying to spend your money, just throwing out there the little I know of....
Frank
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