how does the rear electronic locking axle work?
thanks

 

Essentially it works similar to the E-locker. When disengaged it operates as an open differential (one wheel peel). When engaged its a full locker (both axles mechanically locked together). It auto disengages at 25 mph. It works in 2x4, 4x4 high, and 4x4 low.

 

is there a button on the dash or something?

 

Yes. On trucks equipped with the OEM rear locker you pull outward on the 4x4 selector switch. The switch has a symbol on it that indicates a rear diff locker. Trucks without the OEM locker don't have this on the switch (switch is different).

 

Replacing the OEM locker with a TruTrac is foolish. The OEM locker is awesome. Any locker will cause wheel hop on any vehicle with the rear axle located by leaf springs. The complaints against the factory locker are silly. In low range it never disengages. In high range it unlocks around 27mph. It warns you before unlocking. Why you would need a high speed locker is beyond me. They are designed to provide equal traction when you have a wheel in the air, etc.

 

I noticed. I have a place in front of my barn where I turn around. Its pea gravel, mostly flat and it was dry. Been turning around there for years. I could not get enough traction so I pulled the locker switch thinking that would fix it. Put it back in drive (I generally engage with trans in N) and instant wheel hop, could not feather out enough, so disengaged locker and put it in 4 hi, and made my turn around.

Wheel Hop is not good thing, you can destroy a drive line.

Met my wheeling buddies out at one of our spots and one of the guys brought his brothers Chevy 3500 4x4, lift etc. We are all Jeeps. So he gets at the end of the line, there are maybe 5 of us or so. I was lead and I went over the obstacle, pulled over to spot some of the guys. Chevy man gets there and IIRC he Chevy truck had a 454 big block. He goes for the gold on obstacle, but can't make it so he hits the go pedal and the wheel hop raised its ugly head. I start yelling at him to let off, but the rpms are going up, not down when suddenly the drive shaft lets go at the rear axle pinion. Gawd only knows what kind of rpm he was at but that BIG driveshaft began to destroy that truck, then it broke at the trans and flew out looking like a cork screw.

Aftermath: The truck was in bad shape and it was a sweet daily driver, lift kit, good looking and his brother was proud of it. We did not see him out for a few weeks and when we did him and his brother were not on speaking terms. Drive shaft destroyed, tail shaft housing on auto trans cracked and leaking, right rear shock mounts broke, shock bent...

Wheel hop not your friend.

 

I don't like wheel hop either but it's the fault of the truck / leaf spring axle rather than the locker. A Ram with rear coils doesn't have this problem.

 

I have front and rear e lockers on my Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. The only time I engage the front one is when I'm going straight and only leave it in long enough to get over a obstacle. It is very hard to steer when locked on hard surfaces. A selectable locker is the only kind I would have on a front axle. I don't like the way a locked axle slides sideways on mud and snow.
I would love a a front e locker on my F-350 for those times I get in trouble, it makes a huge difference when you're stuck.

 

Truetrac is an awesome product however, I would never think to replace a allready installed electronic locking axle. There is a company that make a very simple bypass for the 20 mph deactivation for safety. Just do a Google search for spe 6.7 full lock dif kit $50 it works well I had a nice member on the form sent me a complete pdf how it works . I would just have to go out and get a relay and cut three wires on the passenger side. I decided to just buy the official kit not good at wiring. The installation took less than 6 minutes. Now I can leave the axles locked regardless of speed of truck. I think one thing we're all missing here when you want the front axle locked you will be in deep mud heavy snow a surface that will require a lot of traction. I would never want this driving down the road you would go into an instant spin with the rear end being locked above 45 mph is just asking for a talespin. However the worst thing is to be stuck which happened to me last winter and trying to power out of the snow bank and almost making it when it disengages the back axle. 4 low is useless when you're trying to get moving it will just dig you deeper. Now a truetrac in the front end would be very civilized might installing one if I keep this truck. The problem with an E Locker for me in the front would be if it grab traction while the plow is on well over a 1044 lbs you would be snapping U-joints in one season. However the truetrac by its sheer design would allow one wheel to rotate over the other and yet still have the ability to get power to both Wheels with the brake trick. So there's something to think about if you already have an electronic rear axle and you want a little more traction in the front that's where truetrac will shine. take care

 

Put a limited slip up front

 

I am with you there, been running F/R lockers since '02 and they can be a Godsend...IF you know what you are doing....if you don't don't you can sure get stuck DEEP!

 

I am right now trying to decide between the e locker up front and the truetrac for the front did you ever do the e locker up front?

I could have used the locker working this past weekend above 26mph. Going down a snow covered road huge drifts trying to get home. Wheel speed 45-50 actual speed 20ish mph, a little extra traction would have helped a lot in that situation, but 99% of the time, you probably don't need it engaged at that high of speed...

 

lol sorry for the old thread revival, but i am researching this and didn't want to start a brand new one...

 

Thats what you are supposed to do.


Interesting read while sitting here at lunch but not seeing any first hand experience.


I would like the Eaton elocker up front. If i was in 4x4 on quicker trails the limited slip may be better. But I just want power to all 4 wheels off road if pulling something.

 

I strongly suggest you install a limited slip differential ONLY for front drive applications. A front locker is only beneficial if rock crawling, and has no place on a nose heavy truck.
Additionally, a locker hinders handling(both straight and while turning) and places undue stress on drive-train components. I recommend a helical style limited slip, such as the True-trac by Eaton. Auburn Gear also makes a very nice USA made limited slip differential.