How to keep supercab from rusting?
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Not sure. Never had a supercab that far apart. Also I never used toluene thinner
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Toluene will not touch urethane foam. In fact not much of anything will.
You are stuck chopping, chipping and scraping.
One of those Nyalox wire wheels work well for getting the last out to clean metal.
You are stuck chopping, chipping and scraping.
One of those Nyalox wire wheels work well for getting the last out to clean metal.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,333
Likes: 292
From: Laramie, WY
Quick google search suggests dichloromethane (aka DCM, or methylene chloride) might do the trick. I use a fair amount of this in the lab (I'm an analytical chemist). I could bring a little chunk of the supercab foam in & give it a shot. That might not be an easy solvent to come by outside of a regulated setting though, so it may not be too useful.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
It's the main constituent of paint strippers like Rock Miracle. (plus thixotropic agents and dissolved wax to keep it from evaporating)
Depending on where you live this might be easier to get if your experiment works out.
If you live in CA, NY, MA or a number of other States you are out of luck.
Depending on where you live this might be easier to get if your experiment works out.
If you live in CA, NY, MA or a number of other States you are out of luck.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
In the near future I will need to strip my interior in order to weld on new cab corners to fix this supercab rust.
Reading here it sounds like the foam won't be coming out in one piece and it may be wise NOT to reinstall it.
Will this increase road noise?
Reading here it sounds like the foam won't be coming out in one piece and it may be wise NOT to reinstall it.
Will this increase road noise?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 373
I'd stay away from the solvents. Methylene chloride is not flammable, but is a health hazard. Methyl ethyl ketone is flammable.
My personal "rust proofing" is spray new oil underneath and WD-40 inside doors, along tailgate and hood seams. I got some Fluid Film but haven't tried it yet.
Also, wash the dirt out of your fenders and rinse off the salt regularly. If my car/truck won't be in the salt for a few days I rinse off the bottom and then the body with water (no soap)...even if it's down to zero but the engine is still warm. The ice that forms will evaporate in a few days.
My personal "rust proofing" is spray new oil underneath and WD-40 inside doors, along tailgate and hood seams. I got some Fluid Film but haven't tried it yet.
Also, wash the dirt out of your fenders and rinse off the salt regularly. If my car/truck won't be in the salt for a few days I rinse off the bottom and then the body with water (no soap)...even if it's down to zero but the engine is still warm. The ice that forms will evaporate in a few days.
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 685
Likes: 1
From: Western NC mountains
How do you get to the foam on a extended cab? I pulled the interior panels back as far as i could with out pulling the lower corner panel completely out and could not see any holes i could snake my hand into. Will I need to cut a access hole to get to the foam and spray some rust inhibitor in there? The cab corners are gone on my reg cab f150 so I pulled some foam out of it and sprayed it with acetone based brake cleaner (non chlorinated). It didn't dissolve it however it made it tear easier, made it weaker and much more pliable.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 685
Likes: 1
From: Western NC mountains
Lol, should have been more specific on getting that crappy foam out besides a little piece at a time. I knew what I was thinking in my head anyway, just didn't translate well to my fingers.
