Accelerator Pedal
#1
Accelerator Pedal
Hey Folks, Where the accel pedal pad fits onto the pin at the bottom of the arm, the pedal is flopping off on the right side (towards trans tunnel). The right side of the pin is smooth (no groove) so an E clip won't work. I'm wondering if there was a flat push-on friction type retainer used to prevent the pad from shifting left to right. I've searched quite a few illustrations but no mention of it or a replacement pad.
I'm thinking similar to this.
I'm thinking similar to this.
#2
Ford did not furnish the pedal pad or the spring behind it...by themselves. These parts were only available with the accelerator assy (shown as 9725 in pic).
On 1979 and earlier, these parts were available separately. When the spring broke, the pedal flopped around.
F2TZ-9725-D (replaced EOTZ-9725-A & E7TZ-9725-A) .. Accelerator Assy / Obsolete
1980/96 F100/350 & Bronco / 1997 F250 H/D & F350.
No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any.
-------------------------------------------------------
E7TZ-9725-A =
NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 1 = 972-937-2201.
KAMA OBSOLETE PARTS in East Bethel MN has 1 = 763-434-0123.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
EOTZ-9725-A =
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 3 = 800-543-4959.
MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has 11 = 607-722-5371.
On 1979 and earlier, these parts were available separately. When the spring broke, the pedal flopped around.
F2TZ-9725-D (replaced EOTZ-9725-A & E7TZ-9725-A) .. Accelerator Assy / Obsolete
1980/96 F100/350 & Bronco / 1997 F250 H/D & F350.
No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any.
-------------------------------------------------------
E7TZ-9725-A =
NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 1 = 972-937-2201.
KAMA OBSOLETE PARTS in East Bethel MN has 1 = 763-434-0123.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
EOTZ-9725-A =
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 3 = 800-543-4959.
MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has 11 = 607-722-5371.
#3
I appreciate the response Bill. I'll try a friction retainer . Turns out I'm going to need an accelerator cable also as it broke at the plastic flange at the engine bracket about 40 minutes ago on the way home from the store. I rigged it to hold to get it home. Rock Auto shows one : ATP Y284 Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): E0TZ9A758B, E1TZ9A758B, E1TZ9A758E, E4TZ9A75eightD
#4
I appreciate the response Bill. I'll try a friction retainer . Turns out I'm going to need an accelerator cable also as it broke at the plastic flange at the engine bracket about 40 minutes ago on the way home from the store. I rigged it to hold to get it home. Rock Auto shows one : ATP Y284 Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): E0TZ9A758B (20 7/8" long = 1980 only), E1TZ9A758B (1981 only-21 1/2" long), E1TZ9A758E, E4TZ9A758D (22 1/2" long = 1984/85 351W 4V & 1986/87 F250/350 460).
Since Rock Auto is showing multiple OEM part numbers that have various lengths and applications for their ATP Y284 cable, it's probably a "universal fitz-all."
#5
Since Rock Auto is showing multiple OEM part numbers that have various lengths and applications for their ATP Y284 cable, it's probably a "universal fitz-all."
Last edited by ctubutis; 10-27-2016 at 07:55 PM. Reason: fix quote
#6
You would be correct sir. I searched those OE numbers and they all pointed to the aftermarket 23" cable from numerous brands/distributors. Worst case, i'll take up the 3.25" excess with a slight radius under the hood or...cut the ball off of the pedal end and take up slack with a cable clamp, or both. Let's hope there's no sheathing mods required.
#7
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#8
...on mine the plastic broke between the bracket and carb ... all it wanted to do was fold up and jam ... need the whole plastic there to keep it straight ... being a little long worked ok but didn't let the throttle open up all the way so the spacer did the trick ...
#9
...on mine the plastic broke between the bracket and carb ... all it wanted to do was fold up and jam ... need the whole plastic there to keep it straight ... being a little long worked ok but didn't let the throttle open up all the way so the spacer did the trick ...
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Finished...Thanks Everyone
So the new cable came this morning and it was a breeze to install. Throttle response is like a new truck with full range now. I ended up using a cable clamp to take up the difference at the pedal arm. After searching in my hardware cabinets, I came across a few flat push on retainers and actually found one that fit the pedal pin ! whoop whoop ! Tight throttle and no more floppy pedal.
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