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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 09:36 AM
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Towing

Beginning the process of looking at rvs. The question is anybody tow the lightweight fifth wheels with the F150? What rv is it and how is it handling?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 01:50 PM
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OP...that is a good question. Joining the thread...


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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 04:18 PM
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How lightweight? Something like a 19' Scamp? Those are super light (around 3000# IIRC), and you could tow with an old-style Tacoma.

We pull a 20' R-pod, and it is like nothing behind our F-150. I think it's about 4300# with a full load.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 09:14 PM
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I think unless you have the 8' bed, a 5th wheel is going to be an unnecessary headache. even with a 6.5' and a shortbed-friendly cap on the trailer or a slider hitch, I'd still opt for a bumper-pull. The biggest benefit of a 5th wheel is that it positions the pin (hitch) weight over the axle. Too much weight on the bumper can create real problems but with super light loads, that's a non-issue. IMO unless you're looking to tow over 5000 lbs, bumper pull is the way to go.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2016 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by djjoshuad
IMO unless you're looking to tow over 5000 lbs, bumper pull is the way to go.
X2. Easier and simpler. I pulled a 5k bumper pull with a Ranger (4.0, manual, 4.10s), a new F150 wouldn't tell it was there.

The biggest problem is king pin weight. A lot of F250s pulling 5vers are technically overloaded on paper, but the margin of safety is still there because the main components (frame, brakes, driveline, tires) are basically the same between F250s SRW F350s. RV weight tags are very, very skimpy compared to what the real weight can be, unless someone can show a scale ticket never trust what they say they're running for pin weight. 1/2 ton towable 5vers exist, but the pickings are much more slim simply because of design and the higher pin weight they carry versus tongue weight on a bumper pull. Some literature says 20% pin weights, but 25% is closer to accurate for a lot of designs and how people load the trailers. That 5% difference is 450# on a 9k trailer, pretty easy to sail past the F150 ratings where the wheels and P-metric tires don't have the same leeway as E-Rated tires on an SD do.

Step #1 is something most people don't bother with, and that's weight the truck itself to see what you even have to play with. Payload guide for 2016 attached:
 
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 12:31 AM
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There are fifth wheels which are, in theory, 1/2 ton towable. You would have to know the pin weight of the trailer and the load capacity of your truck, both to support the pin weight and to pull the weight. You also need to take into consideration the weight of your passengers, luggage, fuel, etc. and everything else you will carry in the truck.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 09:00 AM
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I've got a 5.5' bed and I had 1,500lbs of remaining capacity over the rear axle when I first bought the truck (weighed on a truck scale, just me in the cab, no gear loaded). Lot's of people tow with a 6.5' bed, but you'll lose another 100lbs (if I remember correctly) going with the longer bed. Add in the weight of a hitch and gear, and you're quickly approaching 1,000lbs remaining capacity. I don't have a trailer now, but have in the past, and agree with the 20% pin estimate. I was a weight-nut and scaled my system (31', 9,200lb pumper-pull) at least once a year. It's very,very easy to add 1,000lbs of gear without looking. At least it was for my family of four.

Something else to consider is many people complain about how quickly these current gen trucks squat under the weight, so you may also need to add some kind of suspension assist gear (that's a separate conversation...mild to wild). I've got 600lbs of gear in my truck (canopy, gear, Decked system). I've down to a 1" rake now; basically leveled, and she drives like an old Cadillac when loaded for the weekend.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by onug
I've got a 5.5' bed and I had 1,500lbs of remaining capacity over the rear axle when I first bought the truck (weighed on a truck scale, just me in the cab, no gear loaded). Lot's of people tow with a 6.5' bed, but you'll lose another 100lbs (if I remember correctly) going with the longer bed. Add in the weight of a hitch and gear, and you're quickly approaching 1,000lbs remaining capacity.
Unless someone designs a trailer specifically to work with the 5.5' box, a 5th wheel is basically out of the question. There just isn't enough room for the cap to clear the cab when turning. even with 6.5' ones, you need either a slider hitch or a cap that is designed for short beds.

Something else to consider is many people complain about how quickly these current gen trucks squat under the weight, so you may also need to add some kind of suspension assist gear (that's a separate conversation...mild to wild). I've got 600lbs of gear in my truck (canopy, gear, Decked system). I've down to a 1" rake now; basically leveled, and she drives like an old Cadillac when loaded for the weekend.
An add-a-leaf for about $150 or some airbags for a little more will fix that
 
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by djjoshuad
An add-a-leaf for about $150 or some airbags for a little more will fix that

Or 1.5" thru 3" rear blocks by ReadyLIFT would also work. Personally, I would go with Airbags if I towed that heavy.


biz
 
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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 10:02 AM
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We hauled about 1,700 lbs of flooring the other day. You could feel the load, but the truck really didn't squat all that much; it was only slightly out of level.

Hauling our TT, the WDH took care of getting things level. If our TT was heavier, I'd certainly do air bags or aux springs.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2016 | 05:48 PM
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I like travel trailer because of weight distribution hitch. Fifth wheel puts all weight on truck hind end. We have our third trailer now.
 
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