Frame paint
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New User
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Boston
Frame paint
Looking to see what others have done to preserve their frames and assorted underbody panels? I have used POR15 on other frames with decent results but wanted to get some different opinions.
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Media PA
Just this past week I started to restore and preserve the frame and underbody of my EX and winter beater Suzuki Vitara.
I had drooped the EX's gas tank to install a new hitch so while I had easy access to that area I cleaned and recoated the frame with rubberized undercoating. For the underbody I used Chassis Saver epoxy paint, which is similar to POR15, I cleaned it up then wire brushed it and washed it with acetone then laid on a coat of the high solids silver paint followed by a coat of the gloss black. It all went on very well and looks great, hopefully it will hold up well for a long time. As I have time or work on other areas of the EX I will do more of the same treatments until I get everything under it done.
I had drooped the EX's gas tank to install a new hitch so while I had easy access to that area I cleaned and recoated the frame with rubberized undercoating. For the underbody I used Chassis Saver epoxy paint, which is similar to POR15, I cleaned it up then wire brushed it and washed it with acetone then laid on a coat of the high solids silver paint followed by a coat of the gloss black. It all went on very well and looks great, hopefully it will hold up well for a long time. As I have time or work on other areas of the EX I will do more of the same treatments until I get everything under it done.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
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From: Northern California
Por and chassis saver are simialar products and both need a rough or well sanded survive to adhere to, neither one is going to stick well to a smooth surface.
That said, if you can Sand with 60grit or sandblast they are a good urethane coating.
If you are going to use rustolium I would buy a gallon and brush it on not spray it.
For comparison, I have a steel deck cargo trailer I keep in top shape. I pant it every 3-4 years by rolling rustolium on and it holds up great.
I know the owners of chassis saver so I tried the chassis saver coating but didn't sand blast it first. It started peeling at all the edges and within 2 years was peeling in big slaps off the deck. Not a fault of the product but a result of improper prep.
That said, if you can Sand with 60grit or sandblast they are a good urethane coating.
If you are going to use rustolium I would buy a gallon and brush it on not spray it.
For comparison, I have a steel deck cargo trailer I keep in top shape. I pant it every 3-4 years by rolling rustolium on and it holds up great.
I know the owners of chassis saver so I tried the chassis saver coating but didn't sand blast it first. It started peeling at all the edges and within 2 years was peeling in big slaps off the deck. Not a fault of the product but a result of improper prep.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2013
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Mine i wire brushed and it was already have a good rust to it so it had stuff to grab to but still bleed through in spots. I am a painter by trade and was thinking of trying true 2 part epoxy which i feel would be better. But i contacted line x and they quoted me 500 to do the who under neath and life time warranty as long as i own the truck which time u add up the por15 or chassis saver and ur time u will be close to 500 so im thinking thats now the best option
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2015
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Good surface prep is key. Don't expect any product to work very well if you just throw it on top of scaling rust. I used POR15 on my EX and some areas are not holding up as well as the rest because I spent less time on the prep work. The areas that I took my time on the prep work, it still looks as good as the day I applied it.
Knock the loose rust off with a wire wheel or 36 grit sand paper, degrease the frame, use a rust converter (Ospho is good stuff), rinse, and then apply POR15 or Chassis Saver.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: North Texas
I have used brushed on rustoleum on several old trucks and my old Corvette frame. It works really well as long as you degrease properly. I painted my front springs and bumper brackets with black tractor paint from TSC over a year ago and they still look good. It is thick stuff.
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More Turbo
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 727
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From: Seaside NJ
After the paint of your choice has had to time to fully cure, spray fluid film on everything under there.... mine hasnt shown rust after I applied por15 3 years ago and continuous use of fluid film
New User
Joined: Nov 2016
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I just purchased a whole kit from KBS Coatings, similar to POR15, supposedly the owner / founder was an old POR15 employee / etc and wanted to branch off. Supposedly pretty good stuff. It comes as a kit with all the degreaser and assorted chemicals to use as a prep before applying the actual coat. Might be worth looking into. I will try to update when I get to that point. Should be soon.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Taking a nap
Not disagreeing with the above, as I've used many of those mentioned with decent results over many years & jobs.
That said, for me, now, its 2 part Sherwin Williams 646 Macropoxy.
Plenty of info out there on the web, even some vids on Utube if you want to look before you leap.
Should my Ex ever see sunlight during the winter, it will have 646 sprayed on the underside.
That said, for me, now, its 2 part Sherwin Williams 646 Macropoxy.
Plenty of info out there on the web, even some vids on Utube if you want to look before you leap.
Should my Ex ever see sunlight during the winter, it will have 646 sprayed on the underside.
Last edited by High Cetane; Nov 3, 2016 at 07:06 PM. Reason: Less is more.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
I use Chassis Saver on my Ranger and I have my Super Duty undercoated from Ziebart. I get the F250 touched up every year.
For all of my vehicles, I use schutz gun and spray the undercarriage with bar and chain oil. It has been one of the smartest moves I've ever made in protecting a vehicle. A gallon will more than do a crew cab long bed F250 at a cost of $7 at tractor supply. As added bonus, the bar and chain oil is sticky by design and contains phosphorus which turns iron oxide into iron phosphide.... the brown orange rust turns black.
For all of my vehicles, I use schutz gun and spray the undercarriage with bar and chain oil. It has been one of the smartest moves I've ever made in protecting a vehicle. A gallon will more than do a crew cab long bed F250 at a cost of $7 at tractor supply. As added bonus, the bar and chain oil is sticky by design and contains phosphorus which turns iron oxide into iron phosphide.... the brown orange rust turns black.
New User
Joined: Jul 2021
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Here are the full steps to follow ! Let's go....
Step 1: Surface Cleaning and Degreasing
Step 2: Remove Scaling
Step 3: Grind the Rust Away
Step 4: Apply the Rust Converter
Step 5: Degrease and Clean Again
Step 6: Overspray Prevention
Step 7: Paint Application
Step 8: Rust Preventive Application
If you need detail Guide You can go through this blog.
Step 1: Surface Cleaning and Degreasing
Step 2: Remove Scaling
Step 3: Grind the Rust Away
Step 4: Apply the Rust Converter
Step 5: Degrease and Clean Again
Step 6: Overspray Prevention
Step 7: Paint Application
Step 8: Rust Preventive Application
If you need detail Guide You can go through this blog.
Last edited by Shamantha; Jul 8, 2021 at 07:49 AM.
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 60
Likes: 3
The best way to deal with rust is to mechanically remove it. If it's scale, use a needle gun or air hammer with a chisel attachment. Applying rubberized undercoating to flakey, dirty rust is just going to make things worse. It WILL NOT adhere properly and will let water, moisture and oxygen in and continue to rust while hidden away so you won't see it until it's too late.
I always prefer to remove as much rust as possible, then apply a phosphating solution (Metal Prep from POR or any mixture of Phosphoric Acid, Zinc Phosphate and water). After that I apply Owatrol Oil, which is a light oil that sinks into the pores and is dry to the touch once cured and on top of this I apply Fluid Film. This is not permanent but it works. If I could take the frame off, I would get it dipped in acid and then galvanized or epoxy painted.
I always prefer to remove as much rust as possible, then apply a phosphating solution (Metal Prep from POR or any mixture of Phosphoric Acid, Zinc Phosphate and water). After that I apply Owatrol Oil, which is a light oil that sinks into the pores and is dry to the touch once cured and on top of this I apply Fluid Film. This is not permanent but it works. If I could take the frame off, I would get it dipped in acid and then galvanized or epoxy painted.