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Please Help with engine stalling

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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 07:44 PM
  #16  
Rusty Axlerod's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Roscoe316
...
Southern Utah- 2 weeks/ roughly 3000 miles later, at the near end of our trip, I'm coming down a grade and the engine seems to cut out. The RPM's drop out, total loss of engine power, the coil light flashes on, the RPM's come back, tow/haul kicks off, and after taking my foot off the gas for a second or two I can then accelerate again. This happened about 10 times over the next 10 miles. I pulled off the freeway and the engine completely died while stopping at the bottom of the ramp. No check engine light. But I scanned a P2614 code - Camshaft Pos. Sensor. Cleared the code restarted the engine, got to a safer location, shut it down took a look, nothing visibly wrong, restarted ok but idled a little low?
...
I think the part I highlighted above indicates a PCM reset. If I remember right thats commonly the main harness under the dash isn't it fellas?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 10:40 PM
  #17  
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Id be doing the "scientific" wiggle test under the hood. Start the engine,, then start wiggling wires. Pay specific attention to all the 3+ wire sensors,, and at the big parts of the loom. Then, unplug and plug in the sensors one at a time. Generally the cam or crank sensors work, or they don't. But it very well could be wiring to one of the two sensors.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2016 | 11:40 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Roscoe316
This morning I went to take a look,
KOEO - FMP-V 48.5; ICP-volts 0.1, IPR 14.7% FICM-sync 0
At idle - FMP-V 48.0; ICP-v 1.1; IPR 30.2% FICM-sync 1.0
Cold 2000 rpm - FMP-V 47.5; ICP-v 1.4; IPR 38.3%, FICM sync 1.0
ICP volt with KOEO should be .22-.25V.
Has ICP harness and sensor been inspected? Is it covered in oil? Has ICP sensor ever been changed?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 06:27 PM
  #19  
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I picked it back up from the dealer today, darn thing stalled out 12 times over 10 miles home.

I was wondering about the ICP -volts being low, I've never changed or serviced that sensor but thinking I will change it out. I'm wondering if that sensor is bad how much of my other data is inferred and not actual.

It idles high, 900-1000 rpm, Ford asked about thermostats and the truck not sensing its warmed up? yet sometimes it idles really low to like 500 to 600 rpm. I'm wondering if the idling differences are related to the wiring and injection issues.

I'm looking up parts right now to replace the harnesses's. I see the main harness is part#12B637, but there's a difference before or after Sept/2003. The serial number on the rear of the engine is no longer visible, nor is the one that's supposed to be on the FICM with build date.

Can anyone remind me of the difference in the engines at the Sept.2003 build date to help me identify which part I need?

While I'm in there I'm going to put in the bullet proof EGR I ordered last year and haven't gotten too. Any other recommendations on important mod's from stock while I'm in there?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 06:36 PM
  #20  
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Before investing $700 on a new harness, check the PCM ground and power wire. The coil light in the dash says your loosing power to the PCM, you could have a loose ground.

Or it could be a bad PCM.

It should idle at 650rpm. ICP should be 580-650 and voltage at .8 when idling. .18-.24 koeo
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 06:42 PM
  #21  
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Sorry for the dumb questions....I think I narrowed it down, early 03 build because the ICP sensor is down low not up on the valve cover.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 06:46 PM
  #22  
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ICP is near the turbo on the 03'
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 07:26 PM
  #23  
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unplug the the icp sensor. it is under the turbo on the left side right next to the IPR. The ICP is the smaller one of the two. The sensor could very well be bad and I would replace it with an 05/07 and wiring harness. it could be the pump not sure. The swash plate could have moved. There is a timing port in the plate. if misaligned, the pressure could be low or not run at all. there are a few other problem with these pumps.I first look into the crank and cam sensor problems.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 07:42 PM
  #24  
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That doesn't explain the WTS (wait to start coil, glow plugs) light coming on. Whenever the power to the PCM is reset, it will flash the WTS light, even if for just a second or so. That will kill the truck, so will the cam/crank/ FICM sync issue.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 07:43 PM
  #25  
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Thanks for those tips, I'll check on the PCM wiring.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2016 | 08:51 AM
  #26  
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Brian posted this in another thread...not sure if it was meant for this one, but relevant info to this thread as well;

DO NOT BUY A harness yet. Others have been where you are and fixed it for less than $30. The glow plug light coming on when this occurs is a short in your VRef.

Program Torque Pro for VRef. It'll be 5 volts. When this shorts out, it'll kill all the electronics and be just like you've turned the switch off...which is why the glow plug light is coming on.

Start the Truck then do some writing wiggle testing. I would start near the AC. Only the 3 wire sensors have a VRef. When you can cause it to repeatedly stall by wiggling one wire, you've found your short. Replace that pigtail. The ICP pigtail is a common one because it can get exposed to more oil than there others. The oil takes a tool on that sensor.

Hope this helps
 
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 07:08 PM
  #27  
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Ok, so I was out of town for a few days working. I got home today and started by looking at the ICP sensor a little closer. It's an oily nasty looking mess so I'm going to start by replacing that. I ordered an 05 ICP sensor and a new wiring pigtail should be here in a couple of days.
I did a little wiggle testing but couldn't get the engine to stall or notice a difference on my gauges. The KOEO ICP voltage still shows .08-.09, which I know is way low. I will start with the ICP sensor swap and go from there.
Thanks to everyone for your encouragement and replies.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 07:24 PM
  #28  
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KOEO ICP should be .18-.24. At idle it should be .8 or more and it shouldn't be oil soaked at the connector. If that is what's happened, sensor is leaking out the back... replace both just like you planned.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 07:51 PM
  #29  
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Don't use the butt connectors that come with the harness. It would be best to use solder and shrink tubing. Unplug the IPR harness and put everything up where it is easier to work on.
 
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