So, my old 1986 f-150 (that I paid $1000 for including a plow) is still running ... a 30 year old daily driver! The straight six ... that is very noisy ... is still running after 3 years (when I bought it, I was not sure it would last the winter), still plows snow and even still passes a safety inspection (not much to look at but solid)!

Problem ... for three years, I have been "thinking" about the ignition.

The big problem is the guy before me broke off the ears on the distributor. I have rigged the cap so that it stays on but duct tape and bungee cords will only last so long!

On top of this, the guy before me took out the computer .. which on this year controls the advance.

The module did die last year (both the ignition module and the Hall sensor in the distributor). I replaced both and it has run since (found a spare module in the glove box so I must not be the first to have this problem).

So, now I want to replace the distributor with an older one that has a vacuum advance .... need to get it done before winter sets in ... trees have turned color here in VT .... winter is on the way.

I will also need to replace the the ignition module.

So just a couple things if someone could please tell me:

1) will any distributor from a 300 six fit? Here is a link to the cheapest one I could find local or on the web ... includes cap and rotor .... or does anyone know were I could find one cheaper?

166 RS05 DISTRIBUTOR FORD 300 4.9 6 CYLINDER 1974-1985 f150 f250 f100 f350

2) I "think" (after reading a bunch of posts) that using a 4 pin GM HEI module is the cheapest and easiest conversion (seems to work with any coil and does not need a resistor). Is this a good way to go?

3) Is there a difference in GM modules? Some say "stock" ,,,, some "high performance" (saturate coil for max output, 7500 rpm, ....) is this all bull?" Ebay ... $10 to $100 ... Autozone (High Performance) $22

4) Any pitfalls I should look for?

Here is the article that I am getting my info from (got the link from a post on this site) ...

Dirt cheap Ignition

Thanks so much ..... Mike

 

Hard to beat what you found. There is this one that has the module built in to it.

875 Distributor Ford 300 F 150 F 250 Pickup Hei Cap Upgrade Coil Module Included | eBay

 

If you're going to buy a distributor and an ignition module why not just get an HEI style distributor?

https://www.amazon.com/DISTRIBUTOR-7.../dp/B01FRGNFW6

 

I LOVE THIS FORUM! You guys always help me out.

I actually looked at this distributor but I found ones at the $150 to $300 range. At $90 it looks like a good option ... $50 rotor ... $20 module .... $10 heat sink ... keep my used coil ... about the same price.

So a couple of new question ...

1) is this a "stock" cap and rotor (and coil for that matter) that I can get anywhere (I hope they used a stock GM cap and not one that I will not be able to get in a couple of years)?

2) I have never used this type of unit. I just did some checking on the web. Is all I need is a "hot" wire to the battery connection on the cap? My truck does not have a tach so I don't think need that connection. I see some people use the "hot" wire that goes to my present ignition while others show a relay and some heavy (I think it was 12 gauge wire ... 20 amps) to a new fuse?

3) I saw lots of "disagreements" and "discussions" (some got heated) on the web about using this type of GM unit (coil in the cap). Besides the obvious "Ford only" guys, there were some who argued it was a "poor design" ... while others used the argument that there are millions of these out there. Remembering this is a true "work truck" ... the only thing I care about is dependability. Heck, I was even told that the plow on my truck came from a Chevy (someone who knows a lot more than me knew from the mount and how it was welded to my Ford).

Anyway, all in all, is there any benefit to use either a "stock" Duraspark Ford system, the hybrid system that I found using a Ford distributor with a GM module or the GM style coil in the cap?

I truly appreciate your help and advice with this !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mike

 

I dont know this six cylinder unit, so i don't know about the cap.

If anything, you need a keyed source of power. (direct from battery you would have no 'off')

I am a proponent of run a relay and heavy gauge wire from the positive cable.

Also from the "there are millions of these" camp

 

I agree with the simplicity of the HEI distributor and the suggestion of a relay. When I weighed out the cost and effort factors, it made sense to go with the HEI single wire distributor. If it were a restoration, i would not have changed it over but mine is a work truck and doesn't have to be pretty, just dependable. It has been about a year since the conversion and all is well so far.

 

Awesome. Do you know if you ever need a cap or rotor if you can get one off some GM vehicle (something like a 80 camaro with a V6 or something)?

I just want to make sure if I need a cap 5 years from now that I can go to AutoZone ( or ??? ) and get one.

 

Easy match-up at parts stores. I factored that into the decision making process.

 

Ford 300 Distributor | eBay
Same distributor as Ard's post but $20 cheaper. Although shipping may factor in.

 

Funny ... $90 with shipping from amazon or $70 plus $18 from Ebay.

Both seem to be shipping from the same place ... Florida.

I may need to look here from a carburetor also.

The original one is still on it. I "think" this was some kind of early attempt at fuel injection ( or maybe more correctly fuel control ) as there as a wire that went to the computer from the carb.

Is there a "good" reason to change carbs to an earlier one or just stay with what I have ... seems to be running fine.

Thanks so much again for all your help!!!!!!!

Mike

 

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I know that "fuel injection carb" as TBI, (Throttle Body Injection) but in the Ford world it is EFI. If all is well, there is no need to revert to earlier normal aspiration.

 

Exactly why I have not changed it ( or the ignition ) yet. I have been fixing things as they need it. I don't want to put money into it for the fun of it. I just want to make sure it is reliable. We did not have much snow last year but the year before I used this old truck at least twice a week for about two hours of plowing ... that's a lot of snow.

I also am planning to finish building my new workshop in the spring. We just got through building the house (hope to finish a lot of the interior work this winter) ... took 3 years.

I have a 3000 sq ft pad of reinforced concrete poured (nature gas line, water and 200 amp power feed already feeding the pad). I ran out of time but this will be the project for next spring / summer.

Thus I want to keep the old truck running .... more important things to put money into than a new one.

Thanks so much again!!!!!

 

Sharp house, sharp truck and cool plow. We did the same thing a few years ago that you are doing now. Bought the land, leveled it ourselves and built the house. All while trying to keep the vehicles alive! A solid year with mud for a 2 acre yard with four dogs....what a mess. And BTW, i have a recently purchased plow that was fitted for a (cough) chevy that needs to be fitted to my 84...lol. Hang in there ! It does get better, much better. I'll never take on a car/truck payment again.

 

We know snow.....that was fallen snow, not drifted snow

 

I would change the carb. It was setup to work with the computer, that is what the wire is for. It will run ok without the computer, but it will run better with a older carb that does not require the computer.

You are right, this was a early way to try and control the ignition timing and the fuel by computer. If you are going to get rid of part of it, you really need to get rid of it all.