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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Upgrading or adding body/engine grounds?

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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 10:21 PM
  #16  
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You have one from the passenger head to the firewall
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 10:33 PM
  #17  
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I think I got that one but maybe not. Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 10:35 PM
  #18  
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Yeah man no problem. It can go anywhere on the engine. Just take it to the firewall. I'd still go off of the pass. head. It's easy to get to.

Here is the info I collected when I added mine.
I felt for the lifting bracket and it was just lower of the allen to the left side ( of the lifting bracket that is, say about 7 o'clock ). The OEM ground is 30" about, I think 12ga but you can always go little bigger, and the motor bolt is an M10-1.5x12.5mm long ( 1/2" long) and the firewall bolt is M6x1.0x12.5mm long ( 1/2" long) I went with stainless and used some no-ox on the terminals to help with corrosion.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 10:53 PM
  #19  
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Yep, I remember. I posted that vid as it was the same setup you have.

It's never going to be and shouldn't be over 14 all the time with general auto batteries. I really only use the plug voltmeter to ensure my alternator is working. Most the gauge readings are elsewhere. It also has colored LEDs to warm of under volts.

That plug is accurate but like all harness values, it a tenth or two below off the alternator. But it's way better then the OBD port values. My two ports read differently, one lower the the other, again as they have different harness positive and negative points.

I'll note the locations in the next days
 
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Old Sep 29, 2016 | 10:54 PM
  #20  
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Thanks man, appreciate it. I may buy one for the hell of it. And yeah no rush on the check list of grounds, as you know there isnt much I can do anytime here soon.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 07:19 AM
  #21  
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It might calm you down a notch about your electrical system.

There may be better ones out there, but this $10 little tool has served me well in checking, diagnosing vehicle electrical systems, both friends and family as well as when trying to find a used car for my grandkids. Plug it in and see what happens on a quick test drive.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 09:39 AM
  #22  
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Thanks. I'm a proactive guy, I want to make sure it's working as it should..
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 09:11 PM
  #23  
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Certainly you checked this since you just changed the alternator, but is your belt tensioner good? Mine was bad causing intermittent low voltage. The tensioner would relax under load and wouldn't tension again on its own. When I went to remove the belt I pulled on the belt and the tensioner unwound and just stayed like that allowing me to remove the belt without holding the tensioner. I can't believe I didn't lose the belt on our 1500 plus mile vacation.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 09:13 PM
  #24  
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Id assume mine was good. It was HARD to get it to stay opened ( get it to where he tang could latch )... Or is there another way to check it?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 09:16 PM
  #25  
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Mine was hard to get that far to but I was able to get it relaxed far enough to remove the belt without locking the tab and it just stayed there on its own
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 09:17 PM
  #26  
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Oh no mine returned back and a good pace and seemed to lock the belt tight. But from what Ive seen here, the 13.6-13.8 is the normal. Also I gotta keep in mind that I have a 1800w audio system too.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 09:19 PM
  #27  
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Ok sounds like yours is okay.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 09:20 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Blakshukvw
Ok sounds like yours is okay.
I do appreciate your interest in helping me.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 09:22 PM
  #29  
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Fwiw, my sgII usually showed about the same as what you report. 13.6-13.8 sometimes 14.0. Not usually much over 13.8. When my tensioner was bad it would dip quickly under 13.0 to around 12.6 or 12.8 periodically.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2016 | 09:52 PM
  #30  
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Yeah lowest Ive ever seen was around 13.3 but again that is with the audio on.
 
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