Dentside donor question
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 70
From: Southern Maryland
66v8baby - to see my album, click on my name, then click on "View Public Profile" then look over to the right and you'll see "Album" and "Garage". The album has the pictures of my NV4500 install.
'65Ford- the Advance Adaptor transmission to (stock Ford truck FE) bell housing I got straight from the vendor (Advance Adaptor, Paso Robles, Cal) for $250 in 2012. P/N is 712551. I also got from them the shifter rod, connector, and ****, Centerforce clutch, and Dodge slipyoke, as well as the rebuilt gearbox with 2WD tailshaft equipped for mechanical speedo. Since you saw the pictures, you can see that it wasn't too hard to install. Had to have a custom driveshaft (in my case it's a 2 piece with center connector bearing) made and balanced together, and a custom speedo cable made. Hope this helps.
'65Ford- the Advance Adaptor transmission to (stock Ford truck FE) bell housing I got straight from the vendor (Advance Adaptor, Paso Robles, Cal) for $250 in 2012. P/N is 712551. I also got from them the shifter rod, connector, and ****, Centerforce clutch, and Dodge slipyoke, as well as the rebuilt gearbox with 2WD tailshaft equipped for mechanical speedo. Since you saw the pictures, you can see that it wasn't too hard to install. Had to have a custom driveshaft (in my case it's a 2 piece with center connector bearing) made and balanced together, and a custom speedo cable made. Hope this helps.
When I went to Advance Adapters website I didn't see anything but the adapter itself. I should have given them a call. Also, the price from Bronco Graveyard was about $10 less than ordering direct from the manufacturer.
What cam did you go with? I was planning on a mild performance cam myself. I also have an aluminum water pump that combined with the intake should knock about 90 lbs off the front end.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,671
Likes: 372
You got that right...neither is the gear vendor route...about $3100 for a new one and the driveshaft would have to be altered.
Thanks for the parts info.
Thanks for the parts info.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 14
From: Tucson, Arizona
I went a little nuts with the engine. I replaced a perfectly good 352 with a 390, bored .040, 9.5 compression, Edelbrock aluminum big valve heads, Hooker Super Comp headers, Edelbrock intake with Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, MSD electronic distributor, roller rockers, roller lifters, and to answer your question, a custom grind hydraulic roller cam from Comp Cams. I asked them for one with max low end torque to come in early since I occasionally use the truck for towing. It's all done by 5500 rpms, but it pulls well. Don't spend any time north of 4000 rpms anyway. Gas mileage still sucks. Sounds great. Fun to drive.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 70
From: Southern Maryland
Ah, well I don't want to go crazy with my 390 build. The rear main on the 352 has gone from an occasional drip overnight to a steady leak whenever the engine is running. There's no way it would pass the state inspection so it has to come out anyway. I just couldn't see putting a 352 back in when 390s are everywhere.
I doubt I will ever go much over 3K, so I don't know if a roller cam is worth it. I do want to be able to tow my car to the race track on occasion. It's great to see you actually use your truck as a truck. Awesome.
I doubt I will ever go much over 3K, so I don't know if a roller cam is worth it. I do want to be able to tow my car to the race track on occasion. It's great to see you actually use your truck as a truck. Awesome.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 14
From: Tucson, Arizona
Comp Cams will custom grind any kind of cam for you for the price of a normal cam. Just call them on the phone, give them the parameters you have in mind (like I told them lots of low down in the rev range torque) and the other pertinent facts about your engine (heads, compression ratio, exhaust system, ignition system) and they'll take care of it. Good luck with your project.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,671
Likes: 372
Ah, well I don't want to go crazy with my 390 build. The rear main on the 352 has gone from an occasional drip overnight to a steady leak whenever the engine is running. There's no way it would pass the state inspection so it has to come out anyway. I just couldn't see putting a 352 back in when 390s are everywhere.
I doubt I will ever go much over 3K, so I don't know if a roller cam is worth it. I do want to be able to tow my car to the race track on occasion. It's great to see you actually use your truck as a truck. Awesome.
I doubt I will ever go much over 3K, so I don't know if a roller cam is worth it. I do want to be able to tow my car to the race track on occasion. It's great to see you actually use your truck as a truck. Awesome.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Ah, well I don't want to go crazy with my 390 build. The rear main on the 352 has gone from an occasional drip overnight to a steady leak whenever the engine is running. There's no way it would pass the state inspection so it has to come out anyway. I just couldn't see putting a 352 back in when 390s are everywhere.
Clean the rear of the engine real good, then take it out for a drive. Check to see if there is oil above the crank?
Bet a cold RC Cola there will be.
John
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 70
From: Southern Maryland
Thanks for the tip John... I hope your right! I'd love to be able to get my truck back on the road sooner.
If I can fix the leak I can take my time prepping the '76 frame and drivetrain for the entire body swap. I wasn't willing to drive it much during the summer since it doesn't have AC, and now the weather is finally nice enough and I have a severe leak.
If I can fix the leak I can take my time prepping the '76 frame and drivetrain for the entire body swap. I wasn't willing to drive it much during the summer since it doesn't have AC, and now the weather is finally nice enough and I have a severe leak.
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 70
From: Southern Maryland
For me the juice is just not worth the squeeze. A 390 will do everything I need in this truck, and I don't want to spend the time rebuilding the engine. I'm willing to do bolt-ons including a cam swap, but that's it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,671
Likes: 372
To JoWilker's point, valve covers are prone to leak too...especially the original stamped covers that bend easily. All oil leaks seem to end up on the bell housing inspection cover.
BTW, you can replace a rear main seal without pulling the engine though it sounds like you're swapping frames anyway.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 70
From: Southern Maryland
Makes sense. A stock 390 ain't no slouch for a work truck.
To JoWilker's point, valve covers are prone to leak too...especially the original stamped covers that bend easily. All oil leaks seem to end up on the bell housing inspection cover.
BTW, you can replace a rear main seal without pulling the engine though it sounds like you're swapping frames anyway.
To JoWilker's point, valve covers are prone to leak too...especially the original stamped covers that bend easily. All oil leaks seem to end up on the bell housing inspection cover.
BTW, you can replace a rear main seal without pulling the engine though it sounds like you're swapping frames anyway.
Well I might have been able to replace it in the truck when I was a younger man, but I'm afraid that's out of the question now
The valve covers are Edelbrock chrome pieces I was already planning to replace. I've got an original set all cleaned up and painted Ford blue just waiting to go on.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 70
From: Southern Maryland
Are you sure it's the rear main? The intakes are bad leakers and with all the air blowing through there folk blame the crank when it's not.
Clean the rear of the engine real good, then take it out for a drive. Check to see if there is oil above the crank?
Bet a cold RC Cola there will be.
John
Clean the rear of the engine real good, then take it out for a drive. Check to see if there is oil above the crank?
Bet a cold RC Cola there will be.
John
But that brings me to a dilemma. Do I swap out the intake now or wait until I do the 390 and frame swap? Decisions, decisions.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Well John, if you're ever up this way in Southern Maryland, I'll have a cold RC cola waiting on you! I went out to the truck when I got home today and felt of the back of the intake. Wet sludge from corner to corner! How there is no leak at the front is a mystery, but it looks like this is a major source of the leaking if not entirely.
But that brings me to a dilemma. Do I swap out the intake now or wait until I do the 390 and frame swap? Decisions, decisions.
But that brings me to a dilemma. Do I swap out the intake now or wait until I do the 390 and frame swap? Decisions, decisions.
I thought you surely would take a run down 95 & 85 to deliver. 
That's a decision that you will have to make but the intake will need to be pulled and resealed somewhere along the way.
John
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,459
Likes: 70
From: Southern Maryland
