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Speaking of fishy stuff, why do I have 3 radiator looking thingys in the front? I thought I had a tranny cooler and a radiator, but the cooler is in front of another finny radiator looking device almost as big as the "real" radiator, and then back, a few inches away, is the "real" radiator with the coolant in it.
somebody installed a "leveling kit" which consists of those round spacers under the spring.
at factory ride height the coil spring almost touches the frame, when you install those "pucks" or "leveling kit spacers" the spring will sometimes now rub on the frame.
to "fix" the spring rub problem I have seen people cut off the centering know of the puck to allow the spring to sit off to one side enough to clear the frame.
this is what those pucks look like on both sides, the bottom has a cavity that the stock spring perch fits into and the top has a new centering ****.
you may need to remove your wheel to see clearly but if you loo into the center of the spring you can see a large nut that bolts the spring on. check to see if the puck has this centering ****.
I'd just as soon remove them. I'm not much for how front and rear ends actually work, so it's best for me to leave 'em stock, or have someone else figure it out! I just put on a better set of tires and was gonna get an alignment. I think I want to get this scoped out. I noticed that the spring has chalk marks on it, and in my limited experience, that may mean it is from a salvage yard? Here's the rear spring block, which I think is stock...
If they came from a junkyard, that's a good thing. That means someone swapped out the soft, weak rear springs for a set from a SD pickup. There's a thread in here with a bunch of ride height measurements from different trucks. You should be able to tell if yours is stock or not by measuring it as others did.
You may be able to do something similar on the front. Maybe a set of F-350 coils from a powerstroke truck would be the equivalent. I know I swapped front and rear springs out of mine when I got it and it improved the ride and handling 100%. I know if it were my truck, I'd get those pucks out of there and start researching what springs I could use instead. You're always better off going with a full spring replacement than with any other kind of block, spacer, or helper.
The avatar pic is with stock tires. I swear I didn't think it was lifted... The coil springs do look longer than 5.5 if that is what the stock ones measure.
I listed my measurements(F 22.25 R 22.00) in that thread as stock. Now I'll have to come clean!
The RWD excursion does not use a rear block and what you are calling a block is actually just the spring perch which is welded onto the axle from the factory.
yes junk yards use a grease pencil to mark stuff but then again so does the Ford factory.
could just be the factory mark indicating that some assembly line procedure was completed, the clue to that is the marking has a similar aging as the spring. a recently installed junk yard part will normally have a bright new marking.
However, that said. Your parking brake cable routing looks incorrect. almost certain it should NOT be on the bottom of the spring. so either I am wrong, somebody installed it incorrectly when they serviced your parking brake , or the spring did come from a junk yard at some point and the cable was routed incorrectly when the spring was installed.
A side view pic of the spring and top plate may revel more clues.
If they came from a junkyard, that's a good thing. That means someone swapped out the soft, weak rear springs for a set from a SD pickup. There's a thread in here with a bunch of ride height measurements from different trucks. You should be able to tell if yours is stock or not by measuring it as others did.
You may be able to do something similar on the front. Maybe a set of F-350 coils from a powerstroke truck would be the equivalent. I know I swapped front and rear springs out of mine when I got it and it improved the ride and handling 100%. I know if it were my truck, I'd get those pucks out of there and start researching what springs I could use instead. You're always better off going with a full spring replacement than with any other kind of block, spacer, or helper.
SD truck rear leaf springs use a lower spring rate then the Excursion so in fact they are softer and "weaker" then the excursion.
In the front it doesn't matter if he used springs or lift pucks, the geometry is still incorrect. the best or at least most practical way to lift a ford twin beam correctly is to install new brackets that lowers the beam and radius arm mounting location.
That explains why it looks like it sags in the back.... I guess.
Speaking of guessing. I need a spring compressor to remove those spacers/blocks in the front, yes?
Ima go look at the spring specs in the tech folder and see if I can shed any light on this mystery.
The avatar pic is with stock tires. I swear I didn't think it was lifted... The coil springs do look longer than 5.5 if that is what the stock ones measure.
I listed my measurements(F 22.25 R 22.00) in that thread as stock. Now I'll have to come clean!
I just edited my post to reflect the lift pucks
but if you compare your front measurements to Scampers you can see the 2" difference the pucks are creating.
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