I put leveling kit on my 2016 just to level it. I can not see any 4"-10" lift raising the axles any, only tires will raise the axles and keep them from dragging.

 

I would not recommend any type of spacer, ever. I know a lot of people use them, and many have no issues. But if you go offroad at all, you risk bottoming out your front struts and crippling your suspension. It can even happen in a parking lot, hitting a speed bump too fast. Those spacers put a lot of stress on the struts and they lift the truck farther up off its bump stops. That means you now get more travel than the struts can handle.

Here's an example of what can happen:



edited to add: the big reason the 3" spacer is not recommended (aside from even more risk of strut damage) is that the stock UCAs can't handle that angle, so you won't be able to get into perfect alignment. even at 2.5" you're pushing the limits.

 

Spacers are perfectly safe is used properly. You can only go so high before needing to completely change the whole set up. Companies like ReadyLift and Pro Comp will only sell a product that works within the parameters for the vehicle. They even carry large insurance policies to cover the possibility of a failure. You can't stack kits or use partial kits. You do need to keep the safe operating range of the suspension. You also can't dune jump on stock suspension (with or without leveling kit) and expect it to last long. I would venture to say the Toyota in the image got that damage from a little more than driving down the road or leaving a parking lot.

 

4" suspension lift by rough country

 

right, that is the point I was making - the truck in that picture had a spacer lift and was driven in a relatively mild offroad situation. he ran over a rut in the (dirt) road, compressed his suspension, and collapsed the strut. That sort of thing happens all the time. People gain ground clearance and think that means more offroad capability, then break something and have to be towed out. it's not just strut spacers, it's also the really tall rear blocks.

I know you have stuff to sell, and I respect that, but you also need to be responsible enough to let your customers know that using spacers and the like will absolutely limit the capabilities of their truck's suspension.

 

How can a strut spacer make the strut collapse?
The travel is limited by the length of the shock. By installing a spacer, the whole strut is moved downward, but the spring is still compressed the same, the shock absorber's rod is still at the same position.
It will compress until the shock is compressed at it's minimum and the rubber stop will compress. The strut is designed to support the weigth of the truck.

For the extension, again, it will be the same, except that the suspension will be at 'X' inches lower (depending of the leveling kit) and increase the CV angles, which in a offroading situation may damage them.

 

You are basically giving up down travel if you use a spacer lift. The factory bump stops should be your limiting factors given proper set up. Even then you can have carnage. A spacer will cause the LCA to hit the bump stop sooner. When going higher than you should without a new upper arm or knuckle etc. The poor ride comes from the limited travel. The extra up-travel will cause clearance issues off-roading, if larger diameter tires are used.
We do have to sell product to stay in business, not disagreeing with most of your statement. Kind of the same deal with wheel spacers. Some people swear they are all bad, but it is really a proper install that makes the difference. Improper torque and not re-torquing will cause them all to fail. Like you said, the extra lift does not equate to extra performance. Less in many cases, but proper use and heights used they are safe.

 

I'm glad to hear that you seem to have a handle on the potential issues. Lots of installers and salesmen either don't know or don't care, and therefore don't inform their customers. Too bad more of them aren't like you guys.

 

Thank you for the compliment. I have learned, in some cases the hard way, there is snake oil out there. That is all it is snake oil. Over promise and under deliver. I will say I am amazed by how many guys stack the lifts. They use the spacer and then the adjustable strut too. You can drive on it, I wouldn't expect it to do much else. Cheapest price is not the best deal. I think that may be our new tag line. I keep finding myself saying it.
Thanks again.

 

Actually you are incorrect by installing the spacer you are lengthening the strut assembly. What you are not doing is lowering the bump stop. Now when you go to full compression the strut, not the bump stop has become the limit, which will bottom out the strut and causing damage to the piston assembly, which in turn will cause it to collapse. It is hitting the bump stop later. The strut should not be the limiting factor on extension as the A frame and steering linkage and driveshaft should bind before the strut reaches its full extension. Limiting straps would prevent this from happening.

 

[QUOTE=ReadyToMount;16640957]Thank you for the compliment. I have learned, in some cases the hard way, there is snake oil out there. That is all it is snake oil. Over promise and under deliver. I will say I am amazed by how many guys stack the lifts. They use the spacer and then the adjustable strut too. You can drive on it, I wouldn't expect it to do much else. Cheapest price is not the best deal. I think that may be our new tag line. I keep finding myself saying it.
Thanks again.[/QUOTE

can you explain the reason behind a 4" lift? it does not give you any axle clearance

 

.[/QUOTE

can you explain the reason behind a 4" lift? it does not give you any axle clearance[/QUOTE]

A 4" lift or any lift height will not create axle clearance. Only option for that is to use a larger diameter tire. The lift allows room for a taller tire, yet does not get axle any higher off the ground.
If you have big bucks you can use portals on the end of the axle, so there is more than one way. Off roading in rocks or mud will benefit more from a taller tire than a taller lift. It's why some guys mod the fenders to keep a low center of gravity, by allowing minimum lift and maximum tire.

 

We are saying the same thing but you are picturing it upside down. It does lengthen the strut overall which is what picks up the vehicle. When you do that the control arms are now arced downward in the cycle putting them closer to the lower bumpstop. On the uptravel side you can run the risk collapsing the strut (bottoming out) and that is not good. With a larger tire that will likely impact first. That is why 1.5 - 2.5 inches with strut style leveling kit is the max. Gain some fender clearance while staying close enough to the suspension cycle parameters that daily driving and mild off tossing should be no issue.
To picture what happens with a spacer lift. Take a floor jack and lift the truck by the bumper or frame rail. You will see how the suspension is drooping. You will have less room to push down and more travel/room to push up on the wheel/tire or suspension.

 

That looks amazing. What's the overall height of your truck?
Currently, mine is at 80" high and still fits in the garage.
Just planning for the future whether to get 3" or 4" lift to get up to 80-81" and still fit.

 

Thanks, the top rear of the cab is the highest point and from the ground to the top is 7 ft. With the 4" lift and tires I belive it lifted it about 5 1/2 to 6"