When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Originally posted by Mil1ion Have someone spray water (with a spray mister ) into the carb while driving.
That sounds a little dangerous for the person with the mister.
I use Sea-Foam in the tractors. Also, when ever I get a new (to me) car or truck I put some in them too. Some people don't like it, but it works for me without any problems. It works good when put in the crankcase too.
I used my windshield washer resevoir on my old clunky volvo deisel. It worked great. Shoved the tube into the intake and hit the highway. Almost completely obscured the highway the first time I did it casue it knocked so much crap loose. James Bond would have been proud of that smoke screen. Luckily there was not much traffic out (I had no idea the results would be so dramatic). The guy who taught me how to do it said to run the water until the motor starts to run rough, then let off. When it smooths back out, hit it again...repeat as necessary. Ran much better afterwards.
I have been hesitant to do it with my truck, not knowing how the higher temps of a gas engine and the water will interact with each other. I have newer heads, but as far as I know the guts in the block are still the original deal, and I am not in a position to get a 460 rebuilt at this time.
Dennis, I'm a little afraid to try the water in the carb thing just yet, but will if I get desperate. How much tranny fluid should I put in? About a quart? Or less?
I'm also wondering now if it could be the fuel pump. Just read another thread where someone was having the same symptoms.....lack of power, and hardly any acceleration in 3rd gear.
I would check out the basics first. Initial timing and both advances, cap, rotor, plugs (mainly the color), vacuum, compression, etc... From there it will be easier to pinpoint the problem. Good luck.
Buy some Red Line Fuel System Cleaner and pour the entire contents in one tank before the next fill-up. This stuff is recommended by various auto companies to keep the valves clean (per the label). It's a cheap and safe fix for carbon build-up. If it doesn't remove the carbon (very doubtful), it will clean the entire fuel system.
Saturday I changed both of the fuel filters, and added Gumout's version of a fuel system cleaner. As of my last test drive a few hours ago, she's running almost as good as new.
I still may want to throw some good wires on it though. I will do a search and see what kind of wires you guys recommend. Anybody know how Kem's are??
Thanks for everybody's help and suggestions! (I'm sure it will be one of those things soon enough )
MSD Superconductor Wires - top of the line and some of the lowest resistance: ~100 ohms for all of my wires (won't work on an HEI distributor cap though). Plus they come with a straight distributor boot to help during removal. I've never had the boot separate from the wire in 3+ years. They also have cylinder markers to place on the wire
Taylor - Have heard that these are good quality.
Autolite - Good, but matching the lengths to cylinders can be confusing.
Are there always 2 fuel filters? I have looked for a 2nd one on my 79 f150 -351M. It has dual tanks. I have a small filter on the carb. I have followed the fuel line from the carb, to the pump, then back until it disappears on top of the front tank. I've yet to find another filter, or the tank switch module for that matter.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.