Alright dudes, Ruby has been kicking along very well since the big upgrades last year. One year on Stage 1s, Intercooler install, and T-500. I have been pretty happy with her, so it's time to start thinking about the final stage coming in January...duh duh DUHHH!!!!! What turbo to get.

I know there is a TON of information on this. My questions are a few. If/when I do a T4 setup, do I have to get new uppies? Should I go with 369 or 366? I'll never run bigger injectors, so I am mainly looking to drop EGTs and keep longevity. So, I'll keep doing research and looking at other setups on here, but I thought I'd start my own thread to keep the information organized and concise. My other option is a 6.7 NEVER!!

Also, I know I am looking at a decent chunk of $$ to get the right equipment. Any ballpark ideas on cost?

 

Do an irate kit with a 369 and send me the kit so I can put a very-band in the driver up pipe. The kit comes with bellowed up stuff. You will be able to sell you'd old ones.
Need head studs though brother!

 

Uh oh...head studs? i guess I'll have to add those to the list. Do you do them one at a time replacement procedure or pull the head and replace the gasket?

 

I paid 4K for the T4 kit, studs, springs, pushrods, and E fuel. I bet its more now! When you order better get his headers while your at it

 

One at a time. Stix will need pulled to do them.
A 366sxe would be good also but that 369 would be the last turbo you would ever need imo

 

You will need to do an efuel kit if you convert to a t4, studs are done one at a time with the motor in the truck and injectors out. Go with a 369 and smaller exhaust side housing (.91) on the 160s, you will be able to run around with your chip on its highest setting without heat issues on 160s. (provided proper tuning)

Yes studs, pushrods,and springs are a must, 40 + psi will happen all day with a 369 and 160s....

I know this is off topic but I am curious how many guys out there truly have 200+k miles on a set of stage 1 or 2 injectors, working the truck hard towing and abusing it like you can with a stock setup. I remember back when I said if I can get 200k miles out of my truck with it juiced up, I would be happy.... I'm half way there, but you bring up the question of longevity.... i'm doubtful 200k will come. For longevity it would be best to go with a set of ACs and never run it out of a modified stock tune, cram more air into it, and leave it alone.

Driving around with big injectors and supporting turbo/mods as a DD is one thing to treat a truck like a street queen, however working a motor hard when the pedal stays on the floor more than off is another... Its just something to think about. These motors can take a lot of abuse, but when you double the original designed HP/TQ and beat on it just as hard, my gut tells me you will likely cut its lifespan in half... or this is at least what i'm seeing with my motor. Its taken care of better than most, if not all!

I know that was random, but its also why I have started collecting 7.3 blocks :-)

 

I say 366, but I know absolutely nothing about the 369 like Nick does. He's probably right and it may be the better way to go, but I'm extremely happy with my 366.

 

Not knocking the 366 at all, it's what I still have in my rig. An old gen can be had for around 600 shipped brand new when the 366 sxe or 369 is 950 or 1008 shipped with a exhaust side housing. The 364 also is a very responsive unit on 160s, however we have heat issues with the 364 when running wide open in a hot tune at 8-11,000 feet of altitude.

The sxe is fairly similar to the old gen models, the biggest difference is the redesigned inlet with a billet wheel, 360 thrust, and rpm output port if used...

40+ psi is doable on an old gen unit, they simply do not flow the lb/min that the sxe models do.my old 366 was rated for 75 lb/min, the new 369 is .98 lb min... That's a big jump in turbo talk, considering the old gen 467 is .95lb/min

I say all this as the price difference between a 366 and 369 is negligible. Yes the old gen is much cheaper and a big improvement over the tp38. Honestly you will be very happy with any of them... Hell even the 38r is a nice improvement, but we simply can't keep it cool with one...

The turbo is the cheap part... It's the dam studs, t4 kit, IC, pushrods, refuel, springs that add up big time! But man when she runs she runs like a raped ape.

 

Alright, been digesting. I have all supporting external mods, but zero supporting internal (springs, studs, pushrods). It sounds like I have much more to think about. I didn't realize it would make so much more boost. I push 30 now. It's not power as much as cooler EGTs I am after. It might be my current IC setup according to a friend of mine. I've gotta find out more.

 

More the fact the Cx Ic plumbing and a t4 plumbing kit that comes set up for a more stock ic will take some doing.
Also I have a feeling your boost being a tad lower is due to a More efficient core. The 7.3 ic is restrictive looking Imo externally and "boost" is a function of restriction. Cx core I believe will make hard number appear lower than other less desirable units.

Do the 369 if you do this!!!

 

If you don't want to swap everything and want to save a little money, get a drop in ball bearing turbo.

 

Call me stupid, but you are saying my current IC flows too much compared to a stock 7.3 IC? That might be possible. I don't love the CX, but it was available and affordable at the time. I may just rebuild my turbo and go with an E99 setup for easy removal. I don't think I want or need to get into all the internals. of my motor. I gotta think on it. It runs so well now that I don't want to mess with it. I also may consider a water/meth kit and go that route. From the reading I have been doing, it cools EGTs AND provides a little more power/boost. But then again, that may present the same issues with too much boost? Aye yie yie, I just wanted a better turbo setup

I updated my signature so you guys can see or be reminded of what I have done so far.

 

There is not a "drop in" turbo that will flow enough to give him the power and keep it cool when towing. Whatever spent on a drop in turbo would be a giant waste of money.

 

For stage 1's, there's plenty of drop in turbos that will do what he wants.

 

Nope. Not any that will