Getting Excited...and a Suspension ?
#31
Can you just drop in the smaller blocks or does that have clearance problems? I've never played with suspension other than to replace OEM parts with equivalent.
#32
They are a direct swap. Very easy job. People have been swapping 2" for 4" in the 250's for years. Did my 09 250 in about 30 minutes. Back then the blocks were about $40 a piece. I'm guessing they now may be a touch more but you likely won't have to spend more than $100 for the pair.
#33
They are a direct swap. Very easy job. People have been swapping 2" for 4" in the 250's for years. Did my 09 250 in about 30 minutes. Back then the blocks were about $40 a piece. I'm guessing they now may be a touch more but you likely won't have to spend more than $100 for the pair.
#34
I was measuring axle tube thickness for some guys on another forum. This is a SRW with the new 275. As you can see, I just so happened to get the threads of the ubolts in the shot. You should have enough thread to swap to the factory shorter block. It will be close though.
Notice the m275 axle tubes are about a 1/2" thicker than the 10.5. The m300 tubes are 4.5" thick. M275 came in right at 4". 10.5 was around 3.5".
Notice the m275 axle tubes are about a 1/2" thicker than the 10.5. The m300 tubes are 4.5" thick. M275 came in right at 4". 10.5 was around 3.5".
#35
I was measuring axle tube thickness for some guys on another forum. This is a SRW with the new 275. As you can see, I just so happened to get the threads of the ubolts in the shot. You should have enough thread to swap to the factory shorter block. It will be close though.
Notice the m275 axle tubes are about a 1/2" thicker than the 10.5. The m300 tubes are 4.5" thick. M275 came in right at 4". 10.5 was around 3.5".
Notice the m275 axle tubes are about a 1/2" thicker than the 10.5. The m300 tubes are 4.5" thick. M275 came in right at 4". 10.5 was around 3.5".
#36
#38
Proper torque is one of the most important factors to remember. Too much and you risk bolt breakage. Too little and the members can move when the springs flex and cause spring breakage. Here is the location with a u-bolt guide and torque ratings for different sized bolts.:
http://www.suspensionspecialists.com...nformation.pdf
#39
Changing the U-Bolts is usually required for rusty threads for 2 reasons. Rust stops the nuts from being properly torqued and the rust causes damage to the threads when taking them apart. New vehicles should be able to re-use the u-bolts but from these images it would be prudent to have new bolts on hand when shortening by 2" not only because the threads run out but the bolts would hang down in harms way. They could of course be cut off if the threads were long enough.
Proper torque is one of the most important factors to remember. Too much and you risk bolt breakage. Too little and the members can move when the springs flex and cause spring breakage. Here is the location with a u-bolt guide and torque ratings for different sized bolts.:
http://www.suspensionspecialists.com...nformation.pdf
Proper torque is one of the most important factors to remember. Too much and you risk bolt breakage. Too little and the members can move when the springs flex and cause spring breakage. Here is the location with a u-bolt guide and torque ratings for different sized bolts.:
http://www.suspensionspecialists.com...nformation.pdf
#40
#41
The shocks will be fine. If you have the camper package and the sway bar, it will not set level though. It will still function 100% but not sit level. To get it back to level after going to 4" blocks on my 09, I ordered the longer sway bar links from a 350. Not functionally necessary but I'm OCD about esthetics.
#42
You are 100% correct. Most spring shops don't even bother unbolting. Just take the cutting torch out right from the start. There have been many times in the past when I have been overly thrifty about re-using fasteners and parts. This should not even have come into my mind as a recommendation to others. Thanks.
#43
Can reuse them but will never be able to get them as tight (in terms of clamping force on the spring pack) as new hardware. Threads are rolled not cut, the nuts are made of a softer material designed to dig in. Do what ya gotta do, but there's a right way and a wrong way or at least a better way. Plan ahead.
#44
Can reuse them but will never be able to get them as tight (in terms of clamping force on the spring pack) as new hardware. Threads are rolled not cut, the nuts are made of a softer material designed to dig in. Do what ya gotta do, but there's a right way and a wrong way or at least a better way. Plan ahead.