Hey all,

I'm going to put new brake pads on my 1995 F-150 tomorrow. I was just wondering what you need to get the caliper bolts out. I have done GM brakes and they required a Torx bit. I don't have many tools and I want to know what I need before I start. I know I need a C-clamp to push the fluid back and to pop off the reservoir cap, etc. I just don't want to start without having what I need. Oh, and it's 2 wheel drive. Thanks.

 

Just did mine a week ago.

There aren't any bolts, at least non on my 1993, that need taken out.

Just two pins (or shims) that need tapped out. Use a hammer and a punch and knock one part of the shim inward and at an angle to get the lip to clear, then the opposite one, then tap the whole thing through.

Easiest set-up I've ever played with.

 

screwdriver, hammer... thats all I've ever needed! there is no bolts I don't know the exact name of the hardware but theyre like two pieces of angle iron with rubber it the middle, All I do is tap on the top/front of the pin first until its barb is under the caliper then do the bottom of the pin next thing you know is that your pushing the pin out the back and you move on to the bottom pin! Simple! But with my wonderful instructions I'd wait until some one who knows what theyre talking about gives better instructions!!!

good luck and enjoy

 

Thanks guys, that's what I needed. Sounds like I'll be done in a snap.

 

The tips on removal you've received are exactly on the money...it couldn't be simpler! Before you remove the pins, notice that the wedge on one side of the pin is thinner then the other, and, also is the side that has the lock tabs. If they are correctly installed now, the thin side of the pin/wedge will face away from the caliper at the top and bottom, so the lock tabs engage the caliper mount to keep the pin from backing away, and the wide side of the wedge will face the caliper itself. Regardless, the pin must be reinstalled the correct way. I have,and probably every mechanic for hire, seen vehicles show up with the pins in upside down, sometimes with just one of them upside down as well. If who ever can be put in upside down, its because they were shot to begin with....I think 8 bucks will get you 2 pair brand new...and another 8 bucks will get you shims to go with your pads of choice, if the shims don't come in the box with the pads.
Phil

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Jan-02 AT 09:12 PM (EST)]One more small tip. Don't force the fluid back into the master res. Instead, get a piece of hose and connect it to the bleeder. Put the other end into a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Then crack the bleeder before pressing caliper together. This will force the old brake fluid into the jar instead. This way, you do not run the risk of forcing dirty fluid threw the lines.

Roger Lane

 

Thanks for all the info. I will be sure to put the pins back in the right way. I wouldn't have thought to crack the bleeder to release the excess fluid. That makes a lot of sense and you don't have to worry about overflowing the reservoir, good idea.

 

 

The brake bleeder trick is mandatory on ABS systems....keeps dirt from clogging that expensive ABS unit...and is good practice elsewhere.
Phil

 

Just a FYI here:

Do bleed the entire system every now and then.

I think I just did the first full bleed on my system at 85,000 miles tonight, and sure enough the brake fluid that came out of the passenger-front caliper was more a solid light-rust-color than a dirty brake fluid color.

Valvoline makes a synthetic brake fluid. Not sure about the other companies, and I'm while I use synthetic everywhere else on my truck, I'm not sure what the synthetic BF has going for it over conventional BF. But I used nearly a whole (big) bottle.

Hopefully such clean BF will fight further corrosion and prevent me from having to buy new calipers any time soon.

 

As a follow-up:

On my truck there were two bolts that held the caliper on, they must have changed the design later. A 1/2-inch socket gets them out. The setup is very simple like the others said. My biggest complaint is there are NO warning squeakers on the pads so the first warning you get on the pads being shot is horrendous metal on metal grinding of pad plate on rotor My left rotor isn't very smooth now. I probably should have pulled it off and had it turned or replaced, but I needed the truck and I didn't have the tools to do it with. When I repack the wheel bearings I'll do something with it, and I'll probably bleed the system too, but for now all that will have to wait for warmer weather and more money (I am a poor college student) and a visit to my self-employed mechanic friend that has an endless supply of tools and knowledge

Lesson learned: If your truck has 80000+ miles on it, check those pads before they mess up your rotors!