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The PCV valve should only be open under heavy throttle and low vac. When the weight would fall down, or possibly be in suspension, and letting the crank pressure blow through. Or be sucking it through since it's under vacuum.
I don't know what you've seen that makes you believe this is such a big deal. If it really is, then why aren't PCV valves a little more high tech? Or at least marketed with specific attributes and specifications? Other than the hole size and hose size, there are no specs listed on any PCV valve I've ever seen.... I know edelbrock makes a couple different UNIVERSAL PCV valves. Probably some other companies too.
So what gives? What's so special? Why is it as dangerous as you say it is? I highly doubt that any engine has had a severe failure strictly due to a dinky little PCV valve...
My guess is if you stay stock, you never see a problem. PCV valves rarely fail. Plus, most people with older cars usually don't run them steady and hard or if they do, then they know enough to watch them closely.
What you've said about PCV valves is right most of the time. I've seen limited times when you would be wrong and I'm just trying to help the OP to not learn the hard way. It's really easy to hillbilly rig a vacuum trap so why not? Or just drive it and see if any oil deposits form on the piston tops. I tow/haul with my truck so oil in the combustion chamber is bad.
One other common misconception is that if PCV valves rattle then they're okay. That ain't always true either. I had one fail and cause a lean issue in a 1996 Ford...even though it passed the "rattle" test.
A failed valve could cause a large vacuum leak, although I think it would be pretty evident. I had the hose on mine split open one time and it was impossible not to notice.
With my 1996 Ranger I got a check engine light. OBD II code was for O2 sensor lean reading. A Google search of the code said common cause was intake leak. I did like you and checked my hoses first. Then on a hunch I followed the Haynes DIY car manual test for verifying the PCV valve and that was it. A new PCV valve solved my lean code.
My experience with FE's and PCV valves is a long story...so I jumped to the end of the story. Part of the story involved sealing a see through top on an old valve cover and watching the oil flow/drain at various rpms. Around 2200 the oil is a fog and just gets crazy at higher rpms. No valve cover baffle can stop all that..not with the wrong PCV valve.
I went to Autozone and was told they did not have PCV hose by the foot. The website said they did so I called and magically someone else told me it was true.
So... some 15/32" and 11/32" PCV hose connected with brass fittings (from the hardware store) works. Just in case anyone else needs the same setup.
Does anybody have ideas for replacing the "steel wool" type media filter inside the breather cap?
PCV hose is the same thing as fuel vapor hose. Aka, standard low pressure fuel line.
For those that don't know, there are 3 grades of standard rubber fuel line.
Low pressure, which is ok for non pressurized lines and vents.
Carburaration, which is rated for under 15psi.
And Fuel injection line, which is the high pressure braided line for high pressure fuel injection systems
Vacuum line will decompose and fail when exposed to oil or fuel and is not suitable for such applications.
A catch can tells the story, even having a shielded PCV. Paid $17 bucks with free S&H
Drain on the bottom getting a little oil black juice after every 2-3 oil changes
Orich
A catch can tells the story, even having a shielded PCV. Paid $17 bucks with free S&H
Drain on the bottom getting a little oil black juice after every 2-3 oil changes
Orich
Where did you buy it? Also, what is the 100Amp circuit breaker (to the left of the vacuum/pressure gauge) for?
A catch can tells the story, even having a shielded PCV. Paid $17 bucks with free S&H
Drain on the bottom getting a little oil black juice after every 2-3 oil changes
Orich
Thank you, Orich. That catch can would keep the OP's combustion chambers nice and clean. I just can't stand looking down a spark plug hole and seeing crud...it's bad for an engine.
Where did you buy it? Also, what is the 100Amp circuit breaker (to the left of the vacuum/pressure gauge) for?
It feeds the 12v. aux terminal power pickup for the on board air an the 12v inverter, & the cab AC all the aux lights, these are common use on GM pickups so it makes less wire having to cross over to the Battery. Plus feeds my other Battery & alarm system so when, I shut off the main power to the main Battery any time it's parked.
Orich
Ps
Oh the catch can got it off ebay. Shipped from China free to US for a total of $17. The longer plastic hose needs to be replaced with a regular PCV type hose as the one they supply will claps after it gets warm from the vacuum. These units come in different colors.
I've never seen that much spaghetti on an older truck. Aux lights? inverter? what are you doing...driving a disco truck? I'm impressed by your git-r-done ingenuity.
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