Hello folks,

I'm preparing the truck, 5er, and boat to go on a trip in a week and a half. Hooked them all up yesterday evening, and took them for a ride to the truck stop for pre-loading weights.





Also, took it on a 30 mile round trip on the freeway. Did good, nothing unusual. Headed home.

Since it was dark while I did the freeway run yesterday, I wanted to run it on the road during daylight.

Today, took off from the house, made a left out of the driveway; half a mile, a right at the stop sign; a mile, a right onto the 45mph main road. Pulled over about a mile and double-checked all connections. Started back onto the road, and, drivers side front wheel started squealing and grinding. Road the bike lane with flashers on and made the two right turns to get back to the house. Also noticed the ABS light was on.

Disconnected everything and tried moving the front left wheel by hand, left and right. No movement. Lifted the front-end up and moved the wheel left and right again, and there was a little bit of movement. Spun the tire and there was squealing and grinding noise. Locked the front locker and spun the tire. No grinding noise or squealing. Disengaged the locker and grinding noise came back.

Removed the tire. Noticed the rotor was loose. Removed the brake caliper.

Brake pads, metal chunk, and metal shavings fell to the ground.





Rotor has deep grooves on both the inside and outside. I'm guessing from all the metal shavings.





Sprayed the whole hub area with brakleen to clean off the metal shavings. Got the hub removed but when I removed the ABS line, I noticed a lot of shavings on the ABS line that is inserted into the hub.







Questions:
Are the shavings on the interior of the hub, or did they make their way in from the rotation of the hub while driving?

Is it possible to get to the interior of the hub for parts replacing, or, do I have to buy a brand new hub?

Could the hub be the problem?

Is there more that I should be checking?

I know I have to replace the rotor and brake pads, but, could someone help me with ideas and advice.

Thanks,

Rich

 

How low are those brake pads now? That rotor looks like it was run with no meat left on pads on them to me and if that's the case the one on the other side is probably just like it. I don't replace rotors unless they are warped, the new pads will wear into the grooves and as far as I'm concerned create more surface area and better braking. I haven't touched a hub yet and I am clueless on how they work.

And what are the laws on the LCV (long combination vehicle)? I like that idea.

 

Your bearings are toast. You need new hub as the bearing is inside the hub and it is not rebuildable. You may need to replace that abs sensor as well, i did when that same thing happened to me.

 

Most of these hubs come with a new ABS sensor

Kyle

 

Pads are pretty thin but not down to metal.
I'll make sure to replace both sides.

The laws to tow doubles depends on:
(1)the state your licensed in. Whether you'll need to upgrade to commercial license for the doubles/triples endorsement, or, no commercial license needed;

(2) Your setup not to exceed the maximum length of the state your traveling through; and,

(3) Some states don't allow doubles.

Thanks for your input.

Appreciate the info, I'll price new hubs, rotors, and pads.

 

Stick with OEM or Timken for your hubs, the cheap ones do not last, trust me.....

 

Got the hubs, rotors, and brake pads changed out and took the truck for a ride. No squealing or grinding issues; brake pedal feels more solid when I'm pressing it; and maybe it's just me, but, it seems like the steering wheel is more responsive.


I purchased FVP Parts from Factory Motor Parts.





During reassembly I used the new clips that the brake pads clip into the caliper bracket.





Looking at the old brake pads and clips, there were 2 clips that were still identifiable; a third clip was mangled up; and the fourth clip is missing.





So, since this is a learning experience for me, I suppose it was the third and fourth clips that was cutting the deep grooves into the rotors.

Thanks for the advise. It gave me a direction to look into, research for methods of repair, and repair got done in time for the trip tomorrow.

 

I think that's the way I'm gonna go - will probably pass on rebuilding the calipers, the truck only has 60,000 on it. Anyone know if there is a thread on flushing / changing the fluid?

Been doing some research on croyed rotors, from what I read you need to bring them down to -300 F for a bunch of hours. Read there are only a couple of companies that do this correctly. One of them is Diversified Cryigenics which market their product as Frozen Rotors. Going to do them (the slotted ones) and Hawk Pads. Haven't decided on the lines or fluid yet. Need to start digging into that and how to get the stock brake fluid out of the system.