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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 08:37 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 56panelford
Use a broom stick then...lol any time I bend a piece of steel it don't straighten itself...
But you're not bending it...the steel still has all the properties of the base metal which include elasticity. You will not bend it to the yield point. Further, you're not trying to bend it linearally, you're twisting it.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 09:39 PM
  #17  
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Front if you are going to run one only.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 07:37 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Flat Ernie
But you're not bending it...the steel still has all the properties of the base metal which include elasticity. You will not bend it to the yield point. Further, you're not trying to bend it linearally, you're twisting it.
Exactly. The point about using the correct grade of steel is important. The yield point will be higher and it is correspondingly more brittle than ordinary low carbon steel. If you introduce heat (e.g. by welding) you change the properties of the steel locally. The properties make it hard to bend and difficult to drill
 
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 08:10 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Justboy
Exactly. The point about using the correct grade of steel is important. The yield point will be higher and it is correspondingly more brittle than ordinary low carbon steel. If you introduce heat (e.g. by welding) you change the properties of the steel locally. The properties make it hard to bend and difficult to drill
I understand all of that. What I'm saying is that in the absence of any bar, even a bar that has been heated is better than no bar at all.

The heated bar will not yield if it is cooled reasonably and it will not be brittle if it is not cooled too quickly. It will be sufficient for this application because the base metal isn't truly altered, only the temper is. It doesn't become silly putty...it simply isn't spring steel anymore. Nevertheless, it will retain its elasticity sufficiently to spring back from the very, very minor twisting it sees in this application...truly, sway bars aren't critically heat treated. Is it the best possible bar? Nope. Is it more than adequate for what we're doing with 70 year old trucks? Yep. It's not like we're road racing with them...
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 12:14 PM
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So if I was to heat and bend a bar what is the best cooling procedure to retain as much originality as possible ?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 12:19 PM
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Bend it cold unless you have to go crazy with your bends. If you must heat it, place it in a bucket of sand or bury it in sand to hold the cooling process down or just let it air cool in the sun. That is how I would do it, others will have other opinions.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 12:50 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by EBEAR
There are aftermarket buildable ones that one end is splined and you cut the other and then weld the arms on ( welder series ) I believe and custom ones but again by the time us Canadians get things from stateside we have to double the cost and I'm trying to keep this a budget build and 5-6 hundred for a sway bar isn't exactly budget
Paul Horton welder series is actually located in Ontario.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2016 | 09:54 PM
  #23  
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That I didn't know wonder if the prices on their site are can$
 
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Old Aug 18, 2016 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by EBEAR
So if I was to heat and bend a bar what is the best cooling procedure to retain as much originality as possible ?
We have bent our sway bars in our race cars before. We cooled them in used room temperature oil before. I know, red hot bar in oil sounds safe right? We were fine and the bar worked fine, for us.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2016 | 08:13 PM
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Yes I remember watching an " old guy " do that when I was a kid don't remember what is was but it didn't look too safe to me and created a " little " smoke
 
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