I will be receiving my Air Lift Load Lifter 5000 and WirelessONE compressor today. I plan to install this weekend. Any tips/tricks? Mounting location for compressor?

Also, I currently have RAS installed. Should I remove them before installing the bags?

 

I and a few others on here have both, seems to play well together. On my 2wd, it was tight clearance with the brackets, but it fits barely. 4wd is different, so maybe no issue at all.

You are less than 3 hours away if you want to use a lift you are welcome.

 

Thanks for the input Eric. Just looked at your garage thread. That's awesome! Thanks a lot for the offer, but I don't think I need to make a 6-hour round trip just to install the bags. Maybe when I get some new springs...

 

Fairly straightforward. On one side (LH I think) the description of the brake line bracket didn't match what I saw but I eventually figured it out. On the other side the top bracket did not fully match the holes in the frame. I had to slightly drill one out to get it to work.

It is a lot easier with the tires removed. If you have jack stands large enough for the body I would put it up on the stands and use your hydraulic jack to raise and lower the axle. Have plenty of spare wire ties. Make sure that they are UV resistant/rated for outdoor use. i.e. the black ones. Have a punch/alignment tool ready. A Phillips screwdriver can work as a cheap substitute.

I had the RAS on at that time. I don't remember it being in the way.

 

I installed the same system with V/Modded B springs. Write up is in the tech folder, here is the link:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13449259

I found on mine the compressor fit perfectly between the first and second running board mount on the driver side.

Tip:
Do NOT let ANYTHING rub up against the tubing. I had the driver side tube resting against the e-brake line...thought they'd move in unison as the axle moved.

WRONG.

The e-brake line rubbed against the air tubing and eventually rubbed a tiny pinhole through the tube. Luckily I had kept the extra tubing from the original install...and while searching I discovered that standard drip irrigation line is an exact match for outside diameter/inside diameter for the tubing (not sure about what it's made out of).

Another tip: Wire in a switch to the power for the manifold or air compressor. If you don't, and say your remote control battery dies, it will continue to try to match the last set air pressure until you remove power to it.

So if you are as lucky as me, you'll have it aired up to 65psi and it will not let you drop it - letting air out of the schrader will just trip the sensor and the compressor will kick back on...and you'll find this out at 3am when it's raining and you just uncoupled your trailer, and you'll have to crawl under it on wet pavement to disconnect the power since there isn't anyplace open at the moment that carries the remote control batteries.

Other than that, you'll love it!!!

 

Thanks Gene and Robert. Great info! Especially regarding the switch.

 

The hardest part for me was figuring out how the parts went together and which side was which, top/bottom, front/back. After I had my head pulled out, the wrenching parts was fairly easy.

I bought the compressor and have yet to install it. I independently plumbed the hoses to the trailer plug bracket and fill each with a bike tire pump that has a pressure gauge on it. I don't like the two sides tied together for sway control reasons. As the truck leans over you can push air out of one spring and into the other. With separate pneumatic circuits, that can't happen. There are 12V electric solenoid air valves that would prevent this from happening, but I'm too lazy to plumb it all up as the current setup is nearly bullet proof. Word of advice, tighten the Schroeder valves if you use them, both the valve cores were loose in mine.

Also the best upgrade to date hands down.