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I took pics of the new computer and the letters/numbers from the old computer. Not sure exactly which ones have to coincide. I will try to get the pics uploaded.
If new computer is correct, does anyone have any ideas? Engine starts right up and idles, but when I give it a little throttle, no power.
Its the connector that controls the ignition timing. You need to remove the SPOUT connector to verify and set base timing, and it can sometimes be forgotten to be plugged back in.
As others have said, "U2X1" is the catch-code that needs to match, so you're good there, assuming that you have an automatic transmission.
If you're still having the same problem, it's likely that your original PCM was fine. This is why "parts-swapping diagnostics" can be very costly if you're needing to buy parts to do the testing. Proper diagnostics is the better approach.
Is there a chance the MAP sensor is bad or EGR valve?
Yes it is possible that the MAP sensor or the CAT is plugged.
Lack of fuel pressure when the throttle is open will cause this problem also.
If the EGR valve was open then it would not idle very well and have a lack of power at WOT.
After you start to drive it and it has the problem then pull the CM codes. The CM codes come right after the KOEO code read out is done and after a space code.
That is exactly what it was doing before I changed the PCM. Now it idles ok but no power when I give it throttle and goes top speed of 20MPH. The fuel pumps shuts off in 1 second after key is turned on. How do nyou get it out of limp mode?
