When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Take the downtube out. The extra working room is a godsend. It means you have to drop the trans crossmember to re-install the downpipe when you're done, but that's not really that hard, and like I said, it was worth it to me.
When I installed my RR uppipes, I started with the downtube in place. After trying a few times to put it in a piece at a time and tying everything together once in place, I pulled it all out, loosely assembled the baby's butt & both uppipes, and dropped them in from above - but now with the downtube out. I then loosely seated the turbo, attached it to the baby's butt and tightened that, and then went to seating the uppipes against the manifolds. It was so much easier.
I didn't remove the downpipe. It was going to have to be unbolted all the way to the tip so I managed to fight with it for two consecutive days 🙌🏻💪👌🇺🇸🛠 . Would have been nice if it wasn't in there though😅
I just purchased a 3 year Gold Member Subscription using all the profit my company made off Mr. Mason, so I can support this forum and offer technical assistance on turbochargers to members here. PM me if you have turbo questions.
I apologize to Mr. Mason and everyone else here for hijacking this thread, and for this reason, I will drop ship the "Club FTE" hat that comes free with the forum subscription to Mr. Mason so his truck building experience can be that much more enjoyable when finished.
Sweet hat . Oh and I have a never been fully installed not damaged billet 66x88x94mm SpTurboost gtp38/38r wheel for sale 80$ message me if interested.
This is supposed to be a "Up-Pipes Today!!!" thread so let's not get this
Sp got my money. But I hope someone reads this in the market for turbo parts and fights the urge to buy cheaper than quality parts and pulls the trigger on true name brand turbo parts
Edited: Some have good luck and some have bad luck. I have both, but try to focus more on the good than bad. Again, Kevin from SPTurbo, Clay from RiffRaff and many others have provided a great product with great customer support that you just don't see in the market of today.
Three cheers to you finishing your projects in a timely manner so you and your truck can enjoy them.
You can't compare Clay and Riff Raff that has multiple quality products and is 100% American and compare them to a EBay company like SpTurboost(China) There is no comparison. Riff Raff has everything from fuel to turbo to forged rods . SpTurboost has sub quality turbo parts . There 360 thrust bearings aren't even brass . Read up on some of the details in quality products you will see that SpTurboost falls behind.
This is one very interesting thread ...I commend people in business stepping up in the face of difficult issues.
The difficult issue is that SpTurboost is not where I should have or will no longer spend my money. Kevin may be a good guy just trying to make a living in the turbo business. But if they want to last there products quality better step it up . They could make there wheels out of moon rocks and I wouldn't buy them 💩
There 360 thrust bearings aren't even brass . Read up on some of the details in quality products you will see that SpTurboost falls behind.
Mr. Mason, why not fill us in on the benefit of using brass thrust bearing in Garrett turbos and how many OE Garrett turbos come stock with brass thrust bearings? I am pretty sure you already know all the facts about it like everything you have claimed in this thread. Looking forward to your educational reply.
Mr. Mason, why not fill us in on the benefit of using brass thrust bearing in Garrett turbos and how many OE Garrett turbos come stock with brass thrust bearings? I am pretty sure you already know all the facts about it like everything you have claimed in this thread. Looking forward to your educational reply.
I am running your 360deg bearing kit, and I have no issues. However, I am curious. What is the thrust bearing made out of? Why is brass ( or bronze) not a good material? Is it because of heat? What would be the "ultimate" thrust bearing and/or journal bearing material, if different from what is actually used?
Mr. Mason, why not fill us in on the benefit of using brass thrust bearing in Garrett turbos and how many OE Garrett turbos come stock with brass thrust bearings? I am pretty sure you already know all the facts about it like everything you have claimed in this thread. Looking forward to your educational reply.
FYI SpTurboost
The reason why we don’t use steel thrust bearings in our turbo chargers is because the steel does not dissipate heat well and it doesn’t make for a good “bearing material.” Steel conducts a lot of heat quickly, and when you have a metal shaft with a metal thrust collar and spacer that presses against a metal thrust bearing, then disaster can occur. For turbochargers running steel thrust bearings a special oil is necessary to keep the bearings from fusing together and causing the turbocharger to need a turbine shaft and a full rebuild as a result.
I have even taken new PTE turbochargers apart to throw away the steel thrust bearing and to replace it with a brass bearing because these turbo chargers are having a hard time not needing a rebuild before the first oil change!!"
The reason why we don’t use steel thrust bearings in our turbo chargers is because the steel does not dissipate heat well and it doesn’t make for a good “bearing material.” Steel conducts a lot of heat quickly, and when you have a metal shaft with a metal thrust collar and spacer that presses against a metal thrust bearing, then disaster can occur. For turbochargers running steel thrust bearings a special oil is necessary to keep the bearings from fusing together and causing the turbocharger to need a turbine shaft and a full rebuild as a result.
So according to your facts, steel conducts a lot of heat quickly, thrust collar and spacer are pressed against the thrust bearing and 6.0L PSD trucks run special oil???
I am running your 360deg bearing kit, and I have no issues. However, I am curious. What is the thrust bearing made out of? Why is brass ( or bronze) not a good material? Is it because of heat? What would be the "ultimate" thrust bearing and/or journal bearing material, if different from what is actually used?
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
