What year?
Define "a little newer" & "I don't want it so new it's going to cost a fortune"
My 99 4X2 pushrod 4.0L 4dr 5spd auto tranny, with load & tow package's, has the wishbone front end with fully boxed frame up front & heavier rear springs & shocks . Even with all that it rides Way better than the twin I beam Rangers I test drove from 95-99. It's also easier to align if needed. Parts are inexpensive & the specified maintenance costs are & have been low.
It's still tight, no rattles & has been Very reliable but the white paint & primer is peeling off the hood since the fall of 02. Seems Ford can't paint a white vehicle & make it stick, as my ole white 78 Merc Zypher suffered the same peeling white color paint right from the factory, so if you opt for a white one, inspect the paint closely.
I've also had problems with the center plastic molded dash bezel the holds the radio, cigar lighter, 12 volt power outlet, fog light switch, just suddenly begin to fall apart. It looks like a faulty molded part, not properly annealed to relieve stress after molding. So check that part for any signs of external stress cracks, especially around the circular molded areas where stress is greatest, like the mounting screw holes & around the cigar & 12 volt power outlet. A new one is about $80.
In 01 the 4.0L went from a pushrod, to OHC & a big jump in HP, but a drop in mpg for all the HP increase in go power.
The 3.0L push rod Vulcan uses about as much gas as the 4.0L & doesn't have as much torque, so isn't as peppy off the line, or when lugging & tugging if your going to be doing any of that.
The 4banger engine is the MPG champ, but is the wimpiest & most difficult to work on, with some of the most expensive parts.
All engines are reliable if maintained to Ford call outs with the specified fluids & filters & will run real good & last a long time if not overheated. If the 3.0L Vulcan is seriously over heated, the heads can warp. High mileage 3.0L engines can also suffer from valve seat recession, so do a compression check on any high mileage 3.0L Vulcan engine.
The OHC 4.0L & 4banger engines are belt driven, so high mileage engines need the timing belt, idler & tensioner pulley's replaced on time.
Some thoughts that come to mind for consideration.
I had to replace my OEM non lube able lower & upper ball joints at about 8 years/60K miles because of dry rotted rubber dust seals letting in moisture & dirt. The OEM rubber started showing dry rot signs at about 3-4 years. The lube able TRW replacements were installed in 07 are still fine & so are the dust seals.
The lower & upper "A" arm bushings are still fine. The front end is still tight & the Michelin LTX tires installed in 08 I believe it was, are wearing evenly.
This is my first Ranger/first truck, it has about 90K on it now & I've never had the older twin I beam, so I've never had anything to compare it to.
The 95 & 96 4.0L twin I beam Ranger & Mazda B4000's I test drove, rode so rough they weren't acceptable, to me. The twin I beam ride with the tow package, over rough wash board roads was punishing.
So I waited for improvements & finally got what I wanted in the 99 model up grades, with a firm but not punishing tow package ride.
Fully boxing the front end frame & going to the upper & lower A arms, 4 door extended cab & a 5speed auto tranny finally relieved me of some of my gold & I've been a happy owner of my first truck.
It's done everything I've asked of it well & without hesitation. It has a lot of towing my Bass Tracker over the Blue Ridge mountains 40-60 miles round trip to the lake & back. Numerous moves of the kids belongings, hauling lawn & garden equipt, bagged dirt, so it's had a work out over the years & is holding up just fine. Don't know if any of that is useful info to you, but it's all I have to offer up.








