I bought a new truck the other day:



It has a 300 4.9L I6, New Process 435, 3.00 rear axle and its 2WD.

It started fine when I bought it, but the one day I got home turned it off, but then had to move it. It wouldn't start, but I did hear the starter solenoid click. Turned out the cable to the starter was chewed up pretty bad. I pulled the starter off to replace the cable (and clean it...). After I pulled it off alot of metal came out with it. Among the pieces of metal, about 5 cylinders, a u-shaped piece of metal and some piece of piece of wire/spring looking this that was rectangular shaped and a whole lotta fine metal.

The flywheel was pretty destroyed:



Put it back together and sure enough the starter wouldn't disengage anymore when I tried to start it. Pulling it out must have knocked loose what was holding it together.

The reason, I think, this happened is because the entire shaft on the starter is able to move forward out of its housing, vs. just the starter gear moving forward. I don't think its supposed to do that but the guys at oreily and napa didn't know. It tested as "good" at oreily. But either way I'm going to replace it.

I need a little guidance on replacing the flywheel though... and I decided to replace the clutch at the same time as well. The truck has roughly 209,000 miles. I'm buying the parts from rockauto.com and I think the clutch kit would work any thoughts on it?

More Information for BRUTE POWER 90202

I already pulled the driveshaft and rear transmission support bolts, as well as trans cover plate in the cab. Any suggestions on pulling the transmission/bell housing to replace the clutch and flywheel? I've never pulled a transmission from any vehicle, so this will be a first. Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Congrats on yer new buggy!

Starters: There are two different starters for your vehicle - one for a stick and a different one for an automatic. Tell those boneheads at the parts store you have a stick shift and get the right starter. No shims are required on Ford starters.

NP435: Its a heavy puppy so a floor jack or some strapping young dudes would help you pull it out. Before you pull it, remove the shifter. To do this (and I'm sure I'll get blasted for saying this), use a pair of Channel Locks and firmly grasp the circular aluminum stick retainer on top of the aluminum cover plate. Push down (with a little beef) on the channel locks and turn them Counter Clockwise until the retainer pops up.

If you can do it by hand, more power to ya! I'm a grumpy old fart and need to cheat.... The shifter can now be pulled up and out...cover the hole with a rag so no boogers get in while you're pulling the trans. With helpers or the floor jack, pull the trans straight back about two feet - for ease of lowering it. Remove the Zbar and clutch adjusting rod...actually, you can do that anytime...remove the bell keeping the bolts in a safe place.

Clutch/flywheel: I would get the flywheel resurfaced if it looks like crap. I would also peek at the crank area - in the picture it looks like there's no space between the flywheel and bell cover. You can get a new ring gear if the flywheel is still good/not warped.

The clutch/pressure plate kit should come with a plastic pilot shaft for aligning the clutch when reinstalled, and a new throw out berrin. Also included would be a new pilot shaft bushing or berrin. To get that out is a topic for later discussion - I don't want to overload you with this 'n that right now.

Me, I would/have gone with a diaphragm type pressure plate but, go with whatever blows your dress up....

 

That brushguard is cool! Nice rig!!

Looks like whomever you bought it from rotated the engine so the starter would engage in a good spot.. Im not 100% sure thats what this guy did but It happened to a friend of mine..

Keep your head up!

 

So are you suggesting that I unbolt the transmission from the bell housing and remove the transmission and then remove the bell housing?

Also I haven't ordered the clutch kit yet... what are some of the advantages of the diaphragm pressure plate? Is it easier/harder to install? Does it last longer? Better performance?

 

If thats the case.... wouldn't that have only worked for one start? Because after you start it it disconnects from the flywheel and the chances of it landing in that spot again aren't very likely, I don't think.... I was able to start it just fine until the cable to the starter failed and I decided to take it off to fix it. It wasn't the nicest sounding start (it sounded like it clanked kinda hard when it hooked up initially) but it didn't do the grinding noise like it did after I reinstalled it.

 

Yes - it's a question of space, weight, balance and ease of operation. You might be fighting yourself with the bell hitting the firewall if you try and pull the trans and bell together. Try and removing everything together if you want. I don't think you'll be gaining anything.

Diaphragm PP advantages: More uniform distribution of load when the pedal is depressed. Over time the load will still be evenly distributed across the PP whereas the coil spring type PP with the three fingers could lose even spring tension (with heat) causing an unequal/off kilter load on the PP. That will cause the clutch disk to wear unevenly and premature failure.

The diaphragm PP is lighter....less moving parts....easier on the leg when being depressed = requires less pedal pressure.....lasts longer (in theory - see above coil spring). Performance? The coil spring type might have better clamping pressure.

Granted, all of these things could be minute in nature but are things to consider. They install the same way, no difference.

Sorry for the book....speaking of which, do you have a repair manual?
Also, don't forget to bag & tag all the parts,bolts, etc, and take pictures for your own benefit.